Erickramirez

go here if you want to see pictures of the corrado parts and rims http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeropost?cmd=fshow&id=8

i tried doin it myself but im running out of time and i just need this fixed, if there is anyone out there that is willing to drive to kirkland and take a look at my corrado and hopefully fix it, that would be great, here is a thread with some background on the problem, http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4642355 if you feel you can fix this problem, please let me know, i also have some other minor problems that i could use some help with. i can pay with cash or corrado parts (hell ill give you all of whats left of the car if you can solve my problems, really)and i also have some rims with really new tires, let me know thanks.. i have some basic tools but nothing fancy so if you could bring the tools you think you might need that would be great, let me know thanks..

yeah this runs on forever, until my battery drains. it actually flooded my cylinders now and wouldnt start, i took out the spark plugs hopefully it will deflood overnight, but now my ISV is making a Ticking noise when i turn the switch on, it ticks about once per second, pretty loud and you can feel it in the isv as well, and it slowly fades until the ticking is very faint, whatsup with that?? im starting to think i fried my ECU, is there any way to check if an ECU is fried besides swapping them?

update: removed pretty much all the relays one by one and the fuel pump kept going (also removed #3 and #12 at same time). also disconnected amp to see if it would miraculously stop (since this started happening while i was installing the amp) and it didnt. what am i doing wrong... ECU problem?

i have a g60, and it is my fuel pump that keeps running i just confirmed that this morning, ive also done alot more trouble shooting: if i turn the key to the on position the fuel pump will deactivate, but once i turn it back to the off postion the fuel pump will go back on after about 5 minutes. and once its on it wont turn off until i either turn the key back on or disconnect my battery. ALSO i unplugged both #3 and #12 fuses (which correspond to the fuel pump right??) and the fuel pump stays on!! whatsup with that?? the fuel pump also turns off if i disconnect the plug in the trunk. SIDENOTE: my fuel gauge has been acting up but its always been like this as far as i remember, i dont know if that would have anything to do with it, and also my remote wire for my amp crosses right above my fuel pump but its always been there i dont think that would affect it would it? helpp this is drving me crazy!! is there anything ive missed?!?!!?

alright i see thanks for explaining it to me i understand now, ill go do somecalculations and see how long i can play some music now (: thanks!

oh thats right ok but wait so basically the way it works is the number on the fuse, lets take 15amps for example, means thats how much it uses PER HOUR? and at full blast?? so if i have an amp and a headunit with fuses adding to a total of 50amps, does that mean that at full blast it will be using up 50amps in 1 hour?? thanks!

i just did some more trooubleshooting, i took out the relay (bottom right, #12, relay 167, right??) while the noise was active and removing it had no affect on it, it still made the noise, i have no idea why it started making noise the only reason i could possibly think of is i somehow moved something relating to the fuel pump while i was installing my amp(it was getting pretty physical in there with the really short wires and the amp under the carpet with my subs on top) but thats kindof a crazy thought that i could have moved something, the spare tire pole thing tho is loose and i was moving it around, but idk, any suggestions??

cool well my amp uses 15amp fuses so the most it can possibly use up in an hour is 45 right? im not going to be playin my music for any more than 2 hours so 45amps in 1 hour thats pretty good and yeah im running the 6x9s off my head unit, thanks!

ok so i have a really weird situation, just recently my battery has been draining and i think i found the source. when i shut off my car, a couple of minutes later i will hear this noise coming from i believe the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel rail (or somewhere in that area). it sound almost like air escaping but then i noticed that in the rear of my car there is also a noise coming from the gas tank area that sounds like fuel moving around and a trickling sound, im guessing maybe a fuel pump? this noise will go on and off until my battery is drained i guess. why is this happening, the only recent changes ive done are: new battery, new amp for subs, new vacuum hose from fpr to intake manifold (not a clear one its a rubber one) and thats about it, i disconnected the ground that goes from the battery bracket to the battery so it could reach the battery posts, so whats going on??? relay??

i see and how do i know how much amps my system is using up??

So i just got a brand new optima yellowtop in my g60 and was just wondering how much playing time could i get out of it with my car turned off and still feel confident it will have enough juice to start up?? looked online and couldnt find anything... a friend of mine said he blasted his music in his truck for almost 4 hours fine. all i have in my g60 are 2 10" MTX Subs with a sony 1200w amp and 2 extra 6x9s, how long can i blast my music??? any experiences with optimas??

usually when its cold, sorry its the best i can explain it, when i turn my key to the on position you can hear a pretty low sound like inbetween a whirrrrr and a buzzzzz, and when i actually turn it to start is when it SOMETIMES makes that semi loud buzz sound. for some reason it makes me think like something is stuck lol idk why. and it cant be my battery i just installed an optima and this has been going on for the last 6 or 7 months on and off. my starter hmm idk... when that buzzing doesnt happen and my car is cold it starts right up, but when my car is warm it usually struggles a little bit, i have been told that it could be my ignition switch but im just confused as to why the buzzing noise??? what kind of symptom is this? no one ever experience it? oh and sometimes when it buzzes if i wiggle the key it will turn on, but i rather just turn the switch off then start it again. :cuckoo:

does the corrado g60 have some sort of pressure regulating valve that will release pressure off the cylinders when you shut off the car? a friend of mine explained this on a different mechanism that used cylinders and it sounded alot like the symptoms im having. sometimes when i turn the key my car will make a weird pretty loud buzzing noise (almost like the noise a buzzer makes on an apartment when you hold it to let the other guy come in through the door) and it wont turn over, so i turn the ignition off and try again and 2nd try flawless start. its almost like the first time my cylinders had pressure built up and would allow my car to turn on and when i shut off the ignition my (pressure release valve?) released the pressure allowing my car to safely turn on. Am i making any sense or am i just crazy??? is there such a valve on the g60?

so i just installed a n optima yellowtop in my corrado and everything seemed fine for the first day, drove it to school and back without problems but today when i turned on my car the idle seemed a little low and after about 30 seconds it wanted to die out on me so i had to give it some gas, let off the gas, would try to die out, give it gas, etc, for about a minute then it seemed fine. my question is was this because the ecu had to go through the "re learning" process for the idle? also heard i could adjust the idle level through the isv, how exactly is this done? and last but not least my negative terminal was just short of reaching the post on the battery so i disconnected the negative ground that is on the thick wire that grounds to the battery bracket, sould this possibly affect it? THANKS!!

UPDATE i did all sorts of funky shizz with the temp gauge, making it click up making it click down and eventually it started working fine now lol (i think). it now rests almost at the bottom, you know that pin stoppin the needle from going down? it rests a couple mm above it, but now it seems to be working fine, under normal driving conditions it will go up to 230 F. this is normal temp right? (i have like 60%water 40% coolant tho)

I live in Washington, and resided in a very, very, very small little town where there is literally nothing, anyways in this little town ive seen 3 corrados every now and then (not counting my 2) which means theres 5. i just moved to a slightly bigger neighborhood outside seattle and to my surprise theres a (very nice) corrado that lives just down my street! and just the other day i saw ANOTHER corrado driving by. Any idea which state has the most amount of corrados?? and any idea how many are actually left in the states? And if anyone from Washington is reading this let me know!

if thats what i did, any idea on how to reset it back?? i hope thats what happened cuz the actual temp is 80 degrees less that will be SO good lol, but how do i put it back then? and i noticed after driving it and the needle all the way up, i would shut off the car and let the needle drop to the middle, then turn on the ignition and watch the needle go up a little but, stop, go up a little, stop, up a little, stop etc. any ideas??? pleasee any help would be great

So this is what i did to reset my temp gauge in my G60: i slowly lifted needle all the way up until i heard a Faint click, then needle just dropped quickly, so i thought i didnt do it right so i did it again, this time i went a little further up and now i heard a more clear click, and this time the needle SLOWLY dropped, but not all the way, only to the middle!. now my temp gauge seems to read but in merely ten minutes of driving on a cold morning it had gone all the way up (reading past the 230 point, im guessing 270?) im thinking somethings not right. did i not reset it correctly? why doesnt my needle drop below halfway? helppp

sorry for the late response, i checked all fuses and nothing, but i just switched decks and everything works now, hmm oh well lol, ill look into that power capacitor, thanks

i think i really good paint job and proper kit mounting would make it look really good, but time is on my side so we will see, and yes it packs quite a punch :grin:

Just want some input on my rado, im going to have it resprayed in a couple months and was wondering if i should have my body kit sprayed the same color or have them spray it a better black, its black now but it was not done proffesionally (under certain lighting it looks odd). i kinda like the look:black body kit and rims, tinted windows (soon) blacked out interior, tinted lights, on a green body, you know, green on black. just want to know if i should keep the body kit black or make it same color. WHADDUYOUGUYS THINK!?!?

just thought id let you guys know, got it done! took out the manifolds for easier removal, now time to sell it :grin:

well im almost done, i jsut need to remove the bolts holding the downpipe and ill be good to go, i got 1 out but the other 3 are killin me!! im taking a break ill try again later...

im taking out the head tommorow, just want to know if theres anything i should know, any special tools i will need, etc? i searched and couldnt find anything, links and tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks!