Tez_P

Glad you finally got yours sorted with the oil pressure frig. My hunch was proved wrong - I have fully functional ABS when I tested it on Friday. As long as it stays working I'm leaving it all well alone now I got the voltage fault code as well - see above postings and the responses on what they mean, but clearly the unit is still receiving a supply seeing as it works!

Thanks for the detailed reply Gareth, most useful. Happily, I now have my MOT! Having reinstated the fault bulb on the PCB and got it lit, my local garage replaced the wheel speed sensor today and the fault light now clears when the engine is run. However, having read your explanation on what the B+ voltage code means, I suspect that the ABS modulator may still be dead. I haven't had chance to throw the anchors in properly yet and see if she still locks up, so we'll see. I suspect this as the little PCB that sits in the fault light pack was f*cked. The moron who'd whipped the bulb off had twisted the terminals together and blown one of the tracks and both the resistors on it. I ended up soldering the bulb directly across two of the connector pins where I could find a supply voltage to get it lit, so my local garage could see if replacing the sensor would clear the lamp. Having had a look at the wee circuit diagram that's on the back of the fault lamp pack, I think one pair of pins takes a signal from the wheel speed circuit and the other two pairs from the modulator and pump. Whilst not deliberate :nono:, I suspect I may have just soldered my bulb across the wheel speed sensor fault circuit. We'll see..... Cheers Tez

My local garage has managed to get their diagnostics to 'talk' (I think) to my ABS ECU. Fault codes are: 06532 - Supply voltage B + 00285 - ABS wheel sensor front right G45 The wheel speed sensor would make sense and be an easy one to change. Anyone comes across the 06532 one before. I'm hoping it's the missing fault light assembly, which was off the car when they did the test. Cheers Tez

That's very kind Mr Mass, many thanks! :salute: I've put a voltmeter across the pins of the plug and have 14V on ignition live and engine running, which would suggest the fault circuit is live and showing a problem. Next stage is to work out what and where. If I wanted to find a kind soul with vagcom in Shropshire can anyone suggest a good place to start - other than a local VW dealer = disinterested and £££££

Hiya, My 92 VR6 has just failed it's MOT for a similar issue, although on mine, a previous owner has kindly just ripped the bulb off the PCB on the lamp assembly. Didn't realise the lamp should have been on before engine start and then go out when running when I bought the car. DOH! :cuckoo: Can anyone advise me if a standard panel lamp bulb will at least illuminate so I can see if the system is even live. I knew the ABS wasn't working in all fairness, so need to get to the bottom of what's up. Cheers Tez

Can wholeheartedly recommend Dave's repair kit and instructions - the new part is much more man for the job than the VW Ally casting that had cracked in two on my drivers door handle. :clap: The pivot pin was a real swine to get out - fortunately I could get access to the back and knock it out. There was no way it was being pulled out and I couldn't get anything in to give enough purchase to pull it out. The little hinge had quite a lot of grime in there (fair enough after 17 years I suppose). However, once the pin was out, the rest of the job was dead easy.