somersetdub

Just had a look, thanks. How much are you after for it?

Yes, that makes the difference!

I lowered the car back onto its wheels earlier and the drop links have 'come in' a bit and look much better, although they should sit perfectly once the engine is back in.

Thanks for people's input, I was just getting worried as it has all been apart and was thinking something was wrong.

The arms and drop links are the same ones I took off before the rebuild.

The links are genuine items and only around a year old. The arms I am unsure if they're genuine or not, but I'm sure they were ok before...

I do wonder if they might sort themselves out when I put weight back on the wheels, but it looks like it could only make them stretch more.

Today I fitted the hubs to the front subframe and connected up the drop links to the wishbone from the new eibach roll bar.

I am confident now that the roll bar is the correct way up as it has a 'U' shape in the middle, but the roll bar itself seems like it's slightly too long as the drop links are stretched when fitted... Does anyone have any ideas??

No I got them powder coated, came up a treat.

Today I fitted the hubs to the front subframe and connected up the drop links to the wishbone from the new eibach roll bar.

I am confident now that the roll bar is the correct way up as it has a 'U' shape in the middle, but the roll bar itself seems like it's slightly too long as the drop links are stretched when fitted... Does anyone have any ideas??

Thanks rob, let me know how you get on with removing it.

The new one looks great, just a bit pricey, but I would buy it if I had to!

I am looking for an undamaged number plate plinth. Not a problem if the lugs on the back are snapped, just as long as it's not cracked/damaged/faded.

Thanks

Thanks again guys, it's only here that people appreciate how much work it is..!

It's always worth it, but if you do it, be prepared to be reaching deep into your pockets!! - there are so many things you don't think of before starting the project and many things really need to be replaced while it's all apart.

I realised last night after putting the subframe back in that I had fitted the roll bar upside down, so spent an hour this morning dropping the subframe again and flipping it over!

Sorry about the random order they're in

Excellent news!

Thanks for the comments guys.. I have plenty more photos, I'll upload them later if people are interested :)

No I didn't remove the abs pump, decided against it in the end as I didn't want to cause problems!

Eventually I'd quite like to fit a Teves 20 abs system, so it maybe be replaced at some point.

Also, re-taping the wiring looms was a fairly big and messy task, but was definitely necessary and repairs to some of the wires and connectors were required too.

Thanks. Yes, it is pretty easy to get the engine out, about half a day's work really. The work is in cleaning/painting/polishing all the little bits and pieces you never thought of before starting the job!

All I have done with the abs pump is clean it and paint it silver, also painted the metal pipes in satin black just to tidy them up a bit.

And a few more of the car before it came off the road...

Well over the last month I have been very busy on the Corrado. The subframes etc have been powder coated now. The wishbones have genuine tt rear bushes and powerflex fronts. New genuine track rod ends and ball joints.

Also an eibach anti roll bar kit is going to be fitted. I have fitted the GB rear engine mount that's been hanging around for ages and have just ordered a vibra technics fast road gearbox mount. I had already fitted a VT front mount, so that's going back in.

I have painted the lower half of the engine bay, along with the front underside. I will have to make my way further back the car another time!

Anyway, a couple of pics....

Bump..

Willing to split the engine if anyone wants any parts...

I have a similar problem on my car.

It used to have 17 inch wheels when I bought it which never rubbed. Since I've put some original speedlines back on its been rubbing on lock.

I later found that the steering seems to go too far- the inside of the wheel rim rubs on the track rod! It does this left and right, so I'm wondering if the wrong rack is fitted.

Not sure if this I'd the problem you're having, but could be worth checking.

The wheels arrived yesterday, clean and well wrapped.

Thanks very much Sean! It's always nice to deal with a genuine, no nonsense seller :)

I've been making slow, steady progress over the last week or so. Cleaning, wire brushing, spraying etc.

I managed to convert the new engine to run a coil pack now, which was quite a mission in the end.

I have fitted a load of new parts including a gruven billet crack pipe, mated to a new genuine thermostat housing, water pump, new oil cooler water pipes, o rings, alternator etc.

It's starting to look a bit better....

I am currently in the process of spraying the gearbox, which is now etch primed.

Still to do: remove the subframe complete with wishbones etc and get it all powder coated, then start to clean the engine bay...

Bump

£100... Perfect for a rebuild/spares etc...