Corvr6

At the moment it is still running. I mainly use the car for track days, so it gets a lot of abuse. :norty: I have heard since that these make of diffs are really suited to higher powered spec cars, which may explain why i have had a crown bolt shear and rupture the box. :( It did highlight the fact that the bearings were about to let go, so got replaced again.The diff has now been professionally welded to the crown wheel as well as the bolts, and touch wood, 3 track days later is still performing.Although the diff does it's job well on the track, I still wouldn't reccomend fitting to a Rado becasue of the fitment issues I encountered. :nono: Pay the extra few quid now and get a quaife or peloquin or don't and pay later! :wink:

After some enthusiastic B roading, :roll: , I can only compare the increased traction as close to driving an AWD as you can get from a FWD car, an LSD is absolutely awesome! :clap: I have also completed a track day at Snetterton and found the xtra traction essential for increasing cornering speed on entry and exit, now it's fun driving in the wet! :norty: I may have been harsh on the quality of build but rightly so I believe, unless anybody know's whether the box's in the US are differant somehow? :confused4: If you have a degree in laithing, happy to strip the diff apart to fit the washer repair kit, and add the bearings and bolts, and the import duties, with little chance of returning a faulty unit if discovered after fitting then I could recommend them. :lol:

It’s been a long while since I posted on this forum a few years in fact, but I can’t contain my annoyance any longer over an OBX Racing LSD VW 02A VR6 (89-98), I bought off EBay. :cuckoo: The manufacturing tolerances are so poor for what is really a mission critical part, I can compare it to something that Wallace and Grommit might have made, in a plastercine world I’m sure it would fit and work flawlessly. :mad2: In the real world though, from what I have seen, and googled about it I would hope to spare anybody else the trauma and anguish that comes with these diffs. :shock: They cost less than half that of the Quaife but don’t include bearings, bolts or sealants. They look the same as a quaife at first glance with a slightly less polished look and feel. :scratch: The quality problem I found is three fold really; OBX LSD 4mm.gif[/attachment:2ek1csfp] 1) The diff is too “long” to fit in the case approx 2mm, as the “length” I refer to is determined by the distance between the bearings that sit on each side of the diff shaft. :( 2) Because of the increased “length” the crown wheel is approx 2mm off, and catches on a bearing in the gearbox housing. :mad2: The solution is to remove this excess length by accurately (OBX look up the meaning sometime soon! :censored: ) machining it away from under the Speedo gear, as shown on the picture, and cutting the Speedo gear as well, (as its only plastic). Also taking about the same length off the shaft at that end too. This will reduce the “length” between the bearing and the crown wheel and resolve both problems. :D 3) I have also discovered that the diff should be disassembled and a washer and bolt repair kit fitted to replace the OBX items as they are, you guessed it, inferior. :bad-words: Kit available, see below. The warranty is a chocolate fireguard because if you don’t machine it, you can’t fit it, and if it develops a fault the cost of the diff is a fraction of the strip down/rebuild. It must be returned to the US, with a receipt from an authorised reseller, and at your cost. (By the way UK Customs want an extra £66 for the import!). :bad-words: :censored: :onfire: The diff is now fitted, :) and seems to be doing what it’s supposed to, but it’s early days, maybe a trackday at Snetterton next week will prove its worth! :dance: In conclusion then my advice: Avoid - OBX Racing LSD VW 02A VR6 (89-98) Avoid – OBX Avoid – OBX Resellers Avoid – Trying to save a few quid by doing it cheaper. :nono: Pay now or pay later means more to me every time I hear it! Recommend – Fit a Quaife, ideally by the Pro’s, I would recommend Stealth for anything, and so wished I hadn’t been such an impatient cheapskate now. :notworthy: I found this Technical drawing of a quaife for illustration. http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop_files/QDF8R20931.jpg Recommend – If you have bought an OBX and not yet fitted it, return it if possible or fit a repair kit first from http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm (Sound guy and trustworthy) :salute: Recommend – Richard at R M Clutch Services, Peterborough. http://www.yell.com/ucs/HomePageAction.do If you turn up with an OBX LSD, it may be fitted where the sun don’t shine, for free! Other quality makes would be surely welcome, very talented, helpful guy. :salute: :clap:

I think you'll find I am just another worker ant like yourself,feasting off the forum tree. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

I have a vibra technics front mount which has reduced the engine movement considerably. :D My other 2 mounts are standard. Stealth fitted mine when it was in for a head rebuild,they have a bit of write up on there site. http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/

No, haven't changed the TPS,don't really understand why I would? :? The more I listen to the engine at idle the more it seems like its just a lumpy idle,with the occasional miss. :? It's more lumpier at idle when cold than when warm,and the miss is more noticeable when the engine's not at load,and like you said we don't really care at these speeds as long as its fine everywhere else,which it seems to be for me. :) I've never gotten any real throttle response below 3000rpm,but always get full power above 3500rpm when I floor it,nothing less than "stunning". 8)

Well the miss is back,or it has become noticeable again. :x It never really went completely at idle anyway,and I think I was trying to convince myself it had gone completely as it was really undetectable when I left Stealth's last Thursday. The agreement was to run the car untill the problem becomes "gradually worse enough" to start to point to a particular component fault or does the opposite and starts to fade away. It definatley is less noticeable than before,but is still there.Not noticeable at all when running the car hard,max power is still there,only really at idle and throttling off and a touch when cruising at about 2K rpm. I think both cams were exchanged,there was no "test" as such done to measure the "twist" as far as I am aware,it was just an exchange to see if the fault cleared up. Not sure I know what you mean when refering to alignment marks,but there was no mention of timing issues,as I understand the fault would have been far more noticeable if timing was out due to chains/sprockets. I wander if moisture is playing a part with a connector somewhere,when I get it garaged in a couple of weeks,gonna get a hairdryer on all the connectors..... :wink: How can you think of parting with it,when its running tip top it really is stunningly quick,and the best looking car on the road today imho. 8) I think a programmable chip might be on the cards to iron out some of the roughness/hesitancy below 3500 rpm,getting the torque at lower rpms is what the VR is crying out for. :evil:

Just to clarify,my VR is late 94 and has the sixteen pin OBD2 style connector. I have just received my vag-com software and would be willing to help out on a limited basis. :) The only limitation being vehicles would have to be driven to my location,Peterborough,Cambs. :wink: Sorry no longer available

I tried some 6 mm spacers on the rears and was only left with 6 complete turns compared to the 10 or so without.That was borderline whether to go for the longer bolts for me. I took the spacers off after only a few days as they were universal spacers and unless you got them centered exactly gave me vibrations +80mph. :roll: If you want bigger and better then go for the spacers with the hub all in one,can't remember the name of them,someone here will know.A bit pricey though. :wink:

Stealth warranted the camshaft replacement and labour,I just paid for the other parts that were replaced as most had good reason for replacement anyhow. :) I now know what its like to drive a VR that is truly running in its prime,if your VR does not make the hairs on your neck stand up when you floor it,then at least one of the above parts is faulty,fix it,and you will understand what owning a VR should really feel like. :D :D :D :wink:

Well then,this would have had most people stumped i think,as my missfire is now cured. :D Eliminated or replaced the following; Spark plugs(Replaced) Leads,(Replaced) Coilpack, Lamda sensor,(Replaced) Coolant sensor, MAF sensor, Fuel filter,(Replaced) Air filter(Replaced) Fuel injectors, Compression tests passed, Leak down tests passed, Camshaft position sensor(Replaced) Possible twisted Camshaft(Replaced) The cure came after the last 2 items were replaced,the possible twisted camshaft is apparently rare but can occour after removal due to the high Torque setting of the camshaft bolt. What ever the cause was is now history and the VR has never been smoother,all thanks to Vince and the lads at Stealth Racing.They may be a couple of hours drive from me but I would rather take my VR there,knowing its in experienced hands. 8) Oh, and Stealth done a professional job fitting my oil cooler,which is a must if you want your oil doing what its supposed to when chasing cruising along side that 5 series. :roll:

After reading the articles put forward by Stormseeker I am too convinced my money would be better off going to him. :) Again the forum protects me from my worst enemy,myself,lets hear it for the forum,hip hip...... :)

No worries Gareth 8) ,I have to admit my own sceptism has increased somewhat, having only had one positve response to this post. I would really of liked to hear from someone who had actually tried these successfully. I was prepared to try one out for £34,but no more than that and with the lack of positve sentiment then I guess I should forget about it and put the money towards more trusted methods of performance increase. :wink: Only another £300 or so and I could get chipped....hmmmm. :evil:

Thanks for all the replies so far,it would be very interesting to hear from anyone who has tried this particular make. I would be very surprised if vehicle manufacturers don't already build a similar device into there fuel systems,but don't draw attention to it thus enabling them to credit the engine/build quality as reasons for improvement. The company claims to have sold millions in over 70 countries,been selling them for over 10 years,offer a 30 day money back guarantee, have had less than 1/1000 returned. It is possible to spend well over 10 times this amount trying to gain 10% on your BHP,exhaust,air filter,etc.(with no other benefits) I don't believe the test results apply to all vehicles but it may just apply to mine or yours.There is risk in everything,I am prepared to risk £34 to find out. So far then, Gareth and myself. 4 more and I can place the order.

Or so they say. :wink: Has anyone actually tried one of these fuel saver pro's? http://www.fhjd.biz/default.asp If you read the FAQ and Test results bit it seems like it may actually work in some cases. Saving fuel and reducing emissions is not top of my priority list,but if there are performance boosts as well then I would be interested. With offers like buy 4 get 2 free,it might be worth trying it if 6 people are interested. They are normally $89.95(£49.63) each, + $6.95 / order, but the offer would work out to about £34 each plus maybe a couple quid local postage. I'd be interested in trying it out for £34. 8) Anyone else?

So did you fit the MAF,has it cured your problem completely?

I think this is a classic example of VW thinking If everybody returns the old parts there is a smaller used parts market. :wink:

So at least I know the MAF is dead...... If anyone in the Surrey area wants a read-out on Vag-com sometime give me a shout. I don't think its 100% conclusive at detecting dead MAF's (according to other posts on here). Guess I was just lucky With an intermittant fault it could it be possible that you have a wiring issue and not nescessarily the MAF sensor,certainly a lot easier to replace a MAF than fault find the wiring but not the cheapest. If you reset the ECM,how quickly does the fault code come back? Did this fix your missfiring problem completely?

When I did mine I found that the previous owner had used a piece of wire instead of the fuse and almost melted the housing,resistor an all. :shock: I thought it was a new resitor pack for sure,but soldered a new fuse in and now working on all 4 speeds,easy fix if you can solder. :wink: Here is the step by step process. :) http://website.lineone.net/~quigger/heater.htm

Sounds like thermostat to me,mine went on my VR a couple weeks ago same symptom,60-70'C for coolant and 95-100'C for oil. Your thermostat should open at 85'C,(80'C on the VR) Cooling fan should come on at 92'C. If you run your engine from cold and feel upper and lower rad pipes,if both get warm at 60-70'C then change thermostat,if temp gauge will continue to 92'C before cooling fan comes on then temp gauge is working ok,and thermoswitch for cooling fan is working correctly also. Tricky to change on VR,not sure about G60. :wink:

Another test for the MAF sensor is to see if the filament is actually working at all. You can do this by lifting the top of the air filter cover and looking down the intake tube. It requires 2 people,someone to switch off the ignition and someone to look down the pipe. Run the car for a minute or 2,then switch off,the filament in the MAF Sensor should glow orange for a fraction of a second,to burn off crap etc. This is not a conclusive test as the filament may still light up and be faulty in some other way. 8) I thought I was having MAF problems but apparently not.... :? http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6611

To reiterate my symptoms of the misfire is like this; Idle(cold or warm) misfires Cruising(any rpm below about 3000RPM) misfires Afterrun/deceleration misfires Accelaration up to about 3000 RPM,usual vr6 reluctance,could be misfiring. Acceleration after 3500 RPM Normal,no misfires,full power. I should point out it is an ocasional miss not every cycle it seems.No smell of fuel. I have been back to Stealth today and there was an error In the DTC when I got there (as its a 75 mile journey for me), Lamda sensor, Intermittant signal fault. :shock: (Hadn't occoured in the 3 X 30 MIN driving sessions I put in after I reset my ECM and before taking it to my local VAG) :mad: But then after checking the sensor it performed flawlessly,just couldn't fault it. :? Whilst we were waiting for a replacement part to arrive just to be on the safe side,Vince eliminated the other possible major causes Coilpack,MAF Sensor,spark plugs,compression tests. :) After fitting the Lamda sensor and taking it for a test drive,the missing is still there,although the throttle seems more responsive. :? Other possible causes will be a little more involving and means leaving it with Stealth for a few days to do there magic. :wink: Another test for the MAF sensor is to see if the filament is actually working at all. You can do this by lifting the top of the air filter cover and looking down the intake tube. It requires 2 people,someone to switch off the ignition and someone to look down the pipe. Run the car for a minute or 2,then switch off,the filament in the MAF Sensor should glow orange for a fraction of a second,to burn off crap etc. This is not a conclusive test as the filament may still light up and be faulty in some other way.

Stealth carried out the following last month Valve guides/seals replaced Valves reseated/replaced as nescessary, cam followers replaced, gasket and reskim I presume. Timing chains and tensioners replaced. Clutch replaced I am sure their work is good,because of the reccomendations they've had,and after speaking to Vince he suggests trying to eliminate the MAF and coilpack before worrying about compressions. I've been told a tooth out on the timing would give terrible driving and its no where near that. Always optimax :) I did manage to get my hands on a "repaired" coilpack but one of the lugs was glued on at an angle making it hard to put the lead on and another lug was all cracked,really need known workers to be sure. Vince has offered to help, so I suppose that's my next step. 8)

To follow up after my visit to my local VAG,"No fault recognised" was what it said on the printout. Now it was quick and free so I shouldn't grumble,but I have to say I am disapointed if only because I still don't have a definitive answer. :( From what I can gather It does mean I only have few things now that may be the culprit,but its finding the one that is proving difficult without spending mega bucks. I believe my list has been narrowed down to these; :? MAF Sensor(Could still be working but out of calibration/range) Coilpack(Could have faulty circuitry) Air intake leaks(How do you test for these?) Compression leaks(don't really want to go there!yet!) To reiterate my symptoms of the misfire is like this; Idle(cold or warm) misfires Cruising(any rpm) misfires Afterrun/deceleration misfires Accelaration up to about 3000 RPM,usual vr6 reluctance,could be misfiring. Acceleration after 3500 RPM Normal,no misfires,full power. Anybody?

I was surprised too,as I have not used them yet for service,maybe these are the breadcrumbs of enticement,a new ploy to bring in business,maybe they already know whats wrong with my car.