Bolster

I think the £34 would be better spent on a chocolate teapot/fireguard an ashtray for the motorbike t1ts on a bull a bag of bent nails ... Sceptic? ... who me?

Not sure if you guys have the same controls (late VR6 ones? Doesn't sound like it as it all seems a bit complicated). I got a replacement bulb from Halfords. Middle knob just pulls off (so to speak) and the bulb can be removed from it's plastic housing. easy enough to pull the old one out in the carpark and go and get the new one to match.

I was fully prepared to splash out the 50 notes for the foam but there are none in the country (or there weren't last week anyway). I decided to do the swap as the seat was giving my back a hard time and I can always replace the passenger one at a later date. (or not). The foam didn't look too warn but a major part of the problem is that the seat cover was not fastened properly at the back of the seat. First time I drove it this morning since swapping them on Monday night and it's a big improvement. I spend over 2 hours a day in the car so it's pretty important to me to have it right.

I don't have heated seats but I swapped the foam between passenger and drivers seats last night. It was a doddle. Easier than the side bolsters. Just release the cover from the rear of the seat and fold the cushion forwards. The rest is pretty obvious. Some needle nose pliers are useful to get the clips back on.

I have had a customised piece of polystyrene (unused takeaway container) redirecting water past the fan intake (from the windscreen to the drain hole in the wing) for the last 2 months :lol: . I can see it staying that way for a while seeing as I'm too lazy to seal the cover properly.

VW tell me that all seat bits (at least the bits your bum sits on) should be interchangeable from the driver/passenger seat.

I just got a couple of Toyo Proxes T1-S from mytyres for £45.60 each had them fitted for £5 each. They drive alot straighter and have far better grip in all conditions than the (in)continentals that they replaced. BUT - I then had all wheel bearings and my rear shocks replaced (Stock VAG kit) and now the car sticks to the road like sh1t to blanket. It is superb. SO - it doesn't matter how much you spend on tyres if your suspension isn't going to keep them on the tarmac. And you don't have to spend loads if it is! 2p - cha ching

It looks great, there's only one problem. It's a Hyundai.

FYI - Middle section of foam is £50 but there are none in stock. I'll be swapping mine with the passenger seat.

Should be due in about 14 years! Sept 2018? Probably have a hover conversion kit for the C by then. :lol:

My drivers seat has sagged at the rear (bit like the Mrs :lol: ). Not much hope for the Mrs but are the seat sections replaceable items also? If so How many sections are there to the seat?

Classic - LOL. "Only knew Hondas ..." :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cool. That means the wheel can only be adjusted to approx 6 degree increments (assuming there is the same number of splines on both the shaft and wheel). That helps. Now I've just got to find the 24mm Socket ... :) Thanks Edit - 6.7 (so nearer 7 degrees)

Cool - too many to count is a good enough answer This can be locked ... unless anyone needs more info than that.

Well thanks for such an informative post PhatVR6 :roll: :lol: Can anyone be a bit more specific?

My Steering wheel is slightly off centre (just enough to be annoying) and I want to know if the splines are fine enough to be able to get it straight or if it's just going to be off centre the other way. Thanks in advance.

And yes the lock would stick out like mutts nuts

Had a little peek behind (as the panel is coming off anyway) - it would take alot of filling and is not a smooth sheet of metal behind there anyway. Colour coding the panel might be an option but that doesn't address the problem here. :roll:

So we have another "corrado, I mean, common problem". Mine's also coming away from the top right. Looks to me like the plastic panel goes around the lock and shouldn't require removal of the lock. I'm thinkin' Double sided sticky pads will sort mine out.

Just sorted mine out. The lever under the control box was two clicks out. Managed to correct it using the bodge method and all is well (for now). The controls are a little stiff (control cables) but f I don't use a heavy hand it's OK. What a novelty - it's the first time I've had the whole lot working since I bought the car. Also wired up some new speakers in the front - I don't know myself! Next week the wheel bearings, brakes and shocks are getting sorted too. yeehaa.

From another thread Common problem, the cogs can jump teeth very easily if there is a problem with the cable. You can realign the lever though to restore the flap's correct travel. There's a proper way of doing it and a bodgey way of doing it. Guess which is easier? Proper way:- Seperate the front half of the heater box by undoing the 10mm plastic retainers. Quite tricky as the console is in the way. Once you have enough of a gap to stick your hand inside the heater box, you need to remove the lever's retaining clip with either a small socket or some pliers. It's in the middle of the lever, so fiddly to get at. Once the retainer is free, push the lever down and out. Bodgey way:- Just lever the fecker off from with a screwdriver! But you do run the risk of completely breaking it. Run the heaters at full pelt for a while to soften the plastic first. Now, you need to figure out the movement of the flaps in relation to the control dial and reset the lever accordingly by reinserting it back in it's hole on the heater box, in it's correct position. It will take a few attempts to get right. It's bloody hard to explain but have a gander at my sticky thread in common probs and hopefully it might help. You will figure it out once you're down there though. Kev

pmsl.. never thought of that one :lol: So we've got Nice Gay Violet, Lipstick Blue, Gash red, Jurassic Green..... anything else? K At this time of year my car is more like "Aquatic Poo" than what it really is (which I can't remember 'cos I haven't washed it in ages) :lol:

:lol:

I get around 28-30 doing a mix of Motorway and A road. I keep meaning to try to get the most economical trip (100 miles a day) I can but the sound of the motor above 4 grand and the joy of acceleration is just too irresistable. :D :D

Without trying to spark off any "how much is your Corrado worth?" debates - does anyone know the book value for Corrados? VR6, G60 ... For the sake of argument - let's say the latest VR6 - '95 with 90,000 on the clock. (for example)