VRwood

24mm 12 point I think!

The second link is the same guy I got mine from, he did it all for £90 outside of ebay and gave me everything I need, I'd recomend him! I had the same rubbery coating on my surround as well, I rubbed it off mine using some gunk and a cloth and it reveals a textured finish underneath that matchs the dash perfectly!

Thats pretty much the approach I was thinking of going for, if you've got time to grab a photo or two over the weekend though that would be great thanks!

Have you modified your lower shelf yet? I've just finished doing the glovebox but I’m not really sure how to approach the shelf as obviously its constantly visible so needs a little more care than just lopping the back of the glovebox off with a jigsaw!

Ah yes of course, I'd completely forgotten about those as I haven't got the A/C bit! Cheers mate.

I'm going to replace my fan controller with one I will design myself as I think the current one is rubbish at regulating temperature. Does anyone know how the current fan controller is wired up? I think it has the three temp inputs from the sensors for the 3 fan speeds Live (switched?) Earth Fan wiring Drive for aux water pump What I am planning on doing is fitting two slimline fans and driving them proportionally based on a new temperature sensor in the tophose with the aim of keeping water temperature at a constant 90 deg there. However I will also retain the other 3 temp sensors as a fail safe incase the main temp sensor fails. I'd also like to control the auxillary water pump from this controller, but if its not built into the existing fan controller I'll probably leave it as it is! Also does anyone have the dimensions of a standard VR6 radiator core, I want to size two fans to cover as much of the core as possible!

I have the late style heater controls £90 inc. p&p if you want them.

Just a quick update, got everything wired up today and it all seems to be working fine! Got a couple of questions though: I don't have the external temp sensor connected up yet but the panel is displaying another temp which looks about right so I'm guessing its getting this from another sensor does anyone know which one? Also when I came to connect the VSS wire up I used the VSS feed from the radio the blue/white wire however, this just looks to have 12v on it? Is this the correct VSS signal wire as I was expecting it to be either a 0-5v or 0-12v PWM type signal? Oh and finally it looks like the demist vent will need modification as its about 20mm from lining up properly, I think it should be fairly easy to mod though, I'll get some pictures when I've done it!

Sorry I wasn't particularly clear about point 3, you'll have to reconnect those fittings once you've got the heater box in place, removing them just gives you a little more clearance getting the matrix outlet through the bulkhead! Good luck with the fitting today and thanks for the part numbers!

Doing it the way I did it you will have to split the unit first as I had to manipulate the heater box a fair bit and I'm sure the fan section would get in the way whilst you're doing it. So what I would suggest is: 1, trimming the lower vent - I took about 10mm off this down to the top of the piece of foam which is stuck to it although there is still part of the lip left on mine so you can trim more off if you want 2, Fit the lower guide vent to the heater box 3, Take the two connectors off the mk4 heater matrix, just clipped on 4, Remove the upper location stud 5, Fit the heater box it can be quite tricky to start with but just takes a bit of manipulation to get in, I started by getting the matrix pipes through first then locating the lower stud 6, tighten the lower stud up to pull the heater into the final position, as the heater box moves into its final position it should make more room around the lower linkage/lower vent. At this point though my linkage only just clear but that doesn't matter for the time being for a reason i'll explain later 7, Remove fan from fan vent (makes it easier to manipulate and line up inlet) and 2 studes next to the A/C heat exchanger 8, Mate up fan guide vent, will need to force it toward the bulkhead in order to do up all the little clips, this took me almost an hour as the ones at the back are trickey (it may be worth noting down thew clip orientation as you'll have to do the two round the back completely blind and by feel. 9, Find small hole under dash imediately above the fan shroud in the fan guide vent and make a small hole under it in the fan guide 10, Use on of these http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9280462&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372015}/categories%3C{9372044}/categories%3C{9372215}/specificationsProductType=coach_screws to bolt the two together You'll find as you do this bolt up it pulls the HVAC inlet upto the inlet in the scuttle this also has the effect of pulling the edge of the heater box up creating more clearance between the lower linkage and the lower guide vent. Spend some time before makeing the hole in the fan shroud for the bolt, I made my bolt lean back slightly so it pulled the fan guide piece up and in toward the bulkhead! And yes the bolt head clears the fan with loads of room to spare! Hope that helps, if your stilll struggling with any bit give me a shout! ---------- Post added at 11:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ---------- Also to add, mine didn't have the drain on it when it arrived, it was just a hole but I'm sure replacing it with a length of pipe would be fine! ---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ---------- Can you get the part number for the outside temperature sensor off ETKA for me? I was going to try using my existing one which feeds the MFA but it was reading 38 degrees the other day so I'd rather get a new, hopefully more accurate, one.

Right, so i've had some sucess getting the fan bit of the CC in which I think will work whether your using the A/C or not. I'd start with the mk4 heater matrix and so long as you can get the lower stud through the bulkhead just pull the centre section into place with the nut, once that lower studs tight it should have pulled the heater section into place so there is enough space for the actuator around the lower vent (with a little trimming!). Once thats in place install the fan bit, its really tricky to do the little clips round the back and needs pressure applying to different areas to get everything to mate up along with a lot of patience, to do this I had to remove the two studs from the back of the fan ducting. With the two bits attached to one another I then put a large self tapper through the top of the fan shroud into the base of the dash, conviently theres a hole pre drilled in about the right place. With that done up its really secure and the fan inlet mates up perfectly with the HVAC inlet. Hopefully this should get you installed, if you need anymore pics/info just let me know!

I thought the climatronic communication was going to be like that, or more like hoped, as I think I've moved the flaps around a bit so will need to reset them! I was hoping to use the large upper mount as an additional mounting point but I havn't offered it up properly yet so it may have to go. I don't know if this makes a difference but I'm using the mk4 heater matrix, it has meant chopping a few hoses about under the bonnet but I wanted to bin the Corrado one. I dont know if the pictures really showed it but the heater box is pressed right up against the insulation under the dash. Let me know if you want any more pictures or anything I'm sure you'll be able to get it in! Can you tell how far off you are from the lower stud meeting the hole?

Well I paid £90 for my climatronic so I'd like it to pay for that really.

I'm at work at the moment so can only get the part number off the heater box - H 35 030015 A and under that 1J2 820 355 A are they the same as yours? Mines the 17 pin type climatronic so I think thats from a post 2001 car. I dont really know if the pictures show much but if you want any specific angles just give me a shout. With not fitting the A/C I think the fan bit will be fairly easy to fit, I've taken one of the studs out where the condenser goes through the bulkhead and I think the other lines up. How are you trying to get the heater box in place, I attached mine to the lower vent first then put them both in together. They went in fairly easily, needed some manipulation but it all slotted in nicely. Now I have a question, if I connect the k-line wire from the 10 pin plug to pin 7 on the OBD port do you know whether VAG-COM will be able to speak to the climatronic? I need to as I think you can only reset the flap positions using VAG-COM.

I'm in the middle of doing this now, although i'm not bothering with the A/C bit, at the moment i'm just driving round with the mk4 centre distribution unit fitted in place, it fitted fine all i did was trim a long bit of plastic off the base and only used the lower stud, it just fits in place and even with only one stud holding it in is rock solid! Just got the bit with the fan in which reaches over to the passenger side to fit tonight then hopefully reassemble the dash (if i can remember where all the wires go)! Oh I just remembered I had to trim a bit off the bottom of the footwell vent thing that fits to the bottom of the central distribution box to clear one of the actuators but other than that it fits fine!

I've got the late VR6 heater controls in perfect working order just removed from my car, there are two on eBay which look similar at the moment going for £100, make me an offer.

I'm away from my Bentley manual at the moment and have just changed my gearbox, does anyone know what thorque the big ?19mm? bolts that hold the engine and gearbox together should be done up to, Cheers.

Just a quick bump, it seems that in my quest to find the correct paint i've found there are two dragon greens, one LC6P and a pearl effect LC6P/W7 are all dragon greens pearl effect or are there indeed two colours? My paint code only says LC6P so I think its the non pearl one?! But i'm not entirely sure!

Haha, yeah I thought that may be pushing it, although sometimes they do release things like that in the marketing! Cheers for that i'll give him a shout!

Does anyone have a standard power/torque curve for the VR6? Ideally a VW supplied one but one from a Dyno run would be just as good. I'm writing a program to display road load force with a variety of different gear ratios to pick the ratios in a six speed box i'm planning on putting together, cheers guys!

Well I think I'll give it a go, if it comes out badly I'll just have a bodyshop do it, any idea on how many cans it'll take to do a complete door, both sides? Cheers

The paints started flaking on my passenger door from wheres its been badly repaired previously. I'm trying to source a new passenger door and respray it myself using rattle cans. Firstly how easy is it to match Dragon Green, as the rest of the paint has been on the car for 16 years now so im sure it will have faded somewhat! Also wheres a good place to source the paint and how much do you think i'll need to do a full door? Does Dragon Green also require a laqure over coat? TIA Dan

My gearbox is starting to go so I'm going to replace it in a few weeks time and whilst I'm there I'm going to do the timing chains as they've not been touched for 120K. So I've started ordering parts from VW but noticed in the timing chain guide there's no rocker cover gasket in the parts list? Is it because this is reusable, I get a slight dribble from it at the moment so should I get a new one or just use a touch of sealant when I come to put it all back together? Also I've noticed the guide says to reuse the inlet manifold gasket? Any reason for this as whilst I'm there I thought I may as well do it but if its mega expensive I won't bother! I've come from a world of classic Minis where gaskets are always replaced with new when removed (and even then they'll leak) so I'm not used to this reusing malarkey!

Looks like its to hold a heat shield in place with one of those el cheapo pressed steel nuts, don't know for sure though!

Measured on mine was 0.02A, thats with the window ecu shut down and an aftermarket Cobra alarm, I can't remember what it was when it was still alive but I do remember it being surprisingly high. Does sound like your ecu is at fault although i'm not sure how long they should stay active after the ignition is switched off, sure mine was in the less than 2 minutes region though.