VRwood

Cheers for that! Can I disconnect the ball joint from the hub without messing with the geo? Or will I have to disconnect it from the wishbone end?

Is it possible to remove a gearbox from a VR6 without dissembling the passenger side suspension like the timing chains guide does, don't really want to mess up the geometry when I whip the gearbox out, will have the front of the car off for access as well!

Are you getting a spark from the king lead before the dizzy?

Is it possible to disconnect the inner cvs from the diff output shafts without removing the hubs or touching anything that will change the suspension geometry though?

Anyone? This is what i'm really worried about I should be able to work out the rest myself! Cheers guys!

I was on the motorway today when somebody pulled out in front of me so I took my foot off the accelerator and was confronted with the sound of the gearbox trying to eat itself! So basically every time I coast in 5th (other gears are fine) I get a loud grinding noise (speed dependent) which sounds like the gears suddenly have a load of backlash, but its fine when the engine is driving the wheels! So it sounds like a bearing in the box has collapsed, so I've got a few questions! 1, Does anybody know which bearing is causing this? And can that bearing be replaced with the gearbox in situ through the end plate? If it can be replaced in situ I'll repair the box otherwise I'll probably just replace the entire box with a second-hand one and do the tensioners whilst I'm there, so: 2, Whats the going rate for a second-hand gearbox in working order? 3, I've looked at the wiki on changing the tensioners and chains and the guide mentioned removing the passenger hub for easy access when removing the box, Is this necessary cause its had a full laser allignment recently and I would rather not have to have it done again! I keep on being increasingly drawn toward the replace the gearbox option then I'll have a spare casing knocking around that I can try and make a 6 speed box out of for fitting at a later date, also 4, Anyone know how long the box will remain driveable for as I'm at uni at the mo and can only do the work at home so will need to limp the car round like it is for a while before I can get home and I'll need it to pick up parts! Cheers for your help!

Sounds like a misfire, the rev counter will be taking engine rpm from the coil so when you get a misfire the engine speed the rev counter "sees" varies quite significantly causing the needle to jump around. This is also why the accelerator feels like its not doing anything. I have no experience with your engine but my first port of call would be plugs/leads/dizzy/coil.

Bentley manual says disconnect battery earth and pump the pedal approx 20 times to remove pressure left in the system (until pedal gets noticeably harder to press) when working on the ABS. It also says that you can remove the switch without removing the accumulator! Doesn't mention removing the accumulator but it looks to just unscrew, says new o-ring on refitting and torque up to 45nm!

When do these kits become useful? Say 50mm drop plus? Or just when you've lowered the car more than the thickness of the steering control arm on the hub?

Hi, I think my coil packs starting to go, I occasionally get a double stutter at low revs/high load when its damp/raining and I just got a little shock from it when I touched it with the engine idling, so it looks like one of the 3 coils is starting to fail (I think its cracked as it started just after I cleaned a load of grease/oil off it)! Before I splash out on a new one from VW (£200 ish?) I was wondering if there were any uprated coilpacks out there which may be worth buying instead? Possibly a MSD one? Cheers

I'm thinking of buying a Vag Com wire off fleabay but i'm not sure which one I need and I can't really make sense of the ross-tech website! I'm not sure which connector I need 2x2 or the other one but i'll check tonight! Also I have a laptop with a usb and serial port so which should I go for, does it matter? Now for the tricky bit, which software do I download from the ross-tech site? http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/index.html I'm given all these options, so which release do I go for? I want to use the shareware software to check everything works then i'll probably upgrade to the paid version if/when I have any engine problems! Cheers for the help guys!

Unfortunately sounds like the cold weathers caused a seal in your clutch master/slave cylinder to go. You'll have to have a poke round under the car to find out which one it is, I'd expect the duff one to be leaking fluid externally.

I want to do that aswell! Was just wondering if anybodys split the indicators or fogs and sprayed the non reflector bits black before to make them look a little darker before the film goes on?

Finally got round to getting some pictures with the now black inPros, what do you all think? I reckon with the black badge it really tones down the front end, doesn't look so blingy any more. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf25122009166.jpg[/attachment:1xtx496x] 25122009167.jpg[/attachment:1xtx496x] Was thinking about splitting the indicators and fogs and doing the inside of them black aswell, anyone tried this before? Is it possible? Also possibly thinking of tinting all the front lights aswell.

Yeah I'm not sold on the InPros either, just spraying them black at the moment they look much more subtle like that! I'll get some more pics up when i'm done!

The rev counter bouncing around and the other symptoms suggest its misfiring. Could be that your coils breaking down under load, its easier to spark at idle than when at full load due to the density of fuel and air in the cylinder. If your coils on its way out it might be just OK at idle but generate those problems under load. Thats the 1st thing I'd check/change.

Yeah sounds like the calipers knackered and is sticking on most probably the sliding pins in the caliper have sieze, although you'd be wise to check your hoses to as these have been known in the past to cause brakes to stick on on the rare occasion!

Ah, think I've worked it out now guys! I was thinking theres a different caliper to get as well but theres not! So they should fit under the Speedlines, cheers for the help guys :D

Cheers for the response guys! Really enjoying the car so far the handling and sound are sublime, especially coming from a mk2 Mondeo! Good call on the suspension and aero wipers, really fancy dropping it soon I presume the lowering springs come in a number of different heights? I think I've sorted out (in my head) this 280mm rear brake conversion so hopefully I should be rolling round with uprated front and rear brakes before the new year once I've sorted out my battery drain problem anyway!

Hi Guys, Bought my 1st Corrado back in October, thought its about time I got round to adding it to the members gallery. - 1994 Corrado VR6 - Dragon Green, Black Leather, 115K mile - InPro Headlights - Induction Kit - Some unknown cat back system (anybody recognise what it is? Looks to be pretty good quality) passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf14092009131.jpg[/attachment:14dr7f4r] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf14092009132.jpg[/attachment:14dr7f4r] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf14092009133.jpg[/attachment:14dr7f4r] 14092009134.jpg[/attachment:14dr7f4r] Plans are: - To find some roof strips, mine hasn't got any - Spray the InPro's black so there a little less blingy - Get the Speedlines sprayed anthracite or some anthracite D90's if I can find some 16" x 8", seem to be rare as hens teeth - KW Coilovers with a modest drop (30mm) and full geo - 288mm front brake conversion - 280mm rear brake conversion (can anyone answer my question in drivetrain?) - Black VW badge (done) - Try and hold off a R32 conversion for as long as possible!! Any thoughts/inspiration?!

I`m guessing but they fit under the fronts they should fit the rears too I`m probably wrong though---often am :lol: :lol: Yeah the hand brake mech might be totally different though and foul the wheel, I'd rather know for sure before spending money on something that doesn't work!

Hi Guys, Is it possible to fit the 280mm rear brakes under a standard set of 15" Speedlines, if so whats the brake balance like with 288mm on the front and 280mm on the rear. I was thinking that it might be too rear biased like this as the rears have had a 'larger' upgrade? Cheers

Bump! I'd also like to know if 7.5" Borbet A's would fit a standard vr, also do the 15" diameter wheels go over 288mm front disks or do you have to go up to 16"?

Hi Guys, I'm new to the board, just picked myself up an almost totally standard '94 VR and I'm after some info on this brake conversion. I love the 15" Speedlines so was hoping to stick with them and upgrade the front brakes to 288mm and do this 280mm rear brake upgrade, I know the front upgrade will fit under the Speedlines but will the rears? Also do you think the 288/280 setup will be balanced like the standard setup or will it be too rear biased as the rear brakes are getting a 'larger' upgrade than the fronts. Cheers