Atki

Hi Guys, Corrado back to firing on all six. Many thanks for your support and recomendations. Bit the bullit and got a beru.

Hi all, Having finally managed to locate a very niggling misfire on my Vr6 Corrado can anyone recomend a reliable coil pack. I have looked at a few and want to get one that will not give up after less than 2000 miles of driving!!! I found out that the present one has malfunctioned on one complete bank. 1&6 plugs were all sooted up so I checked all of the leads and plugs for sparking and hey ho there it was, zero spark from those two. Hopefully it's just that!!!

Me again!! Had a new Lambda fitted less than 3000 miles ago, Very recently had and passed the MOT. Further Up-date. Took her out again today and apart from a brief moment she performed much much more like her old self. I ran her through varying temperatures and all seemed to be well. Much appreciate the advice and comments. Many thanks to you guys. FYI she's done 286250 miles. Want to make the 300.000 before an engine rebuild. My scirroco storm made it to 320.000.

Well, checked the MAF plug and conections. Checked the breather hose ( no splits ) checked the plug leads just to be sure. Fired her up and all was well until at about 80 degrees temp she started to miss fire, stutter and then run fine again.....Is there a sensor that pops in to control warm running? Took her for a run and this time only once did she perform the stutter. However, whilst running her up on the drive i noticed what i can best describe as a burbling note after releasing the throttle, almost to the point of a small backfire but not giving the actual bang!!! She idles at 800 rpm and is steady at that. at 1100 rpm the burbling starts.

Hi again. I checked the leads and they are all seated as they should be. The stutter only happens when she's running at around 2000 rpm. it's brief normally. I'll have a look and a fiddle with the MAF tomorrow and check the breather hose too. Thanks so far. I'll keep you updated.

Hi all. My Vr6 Corrado is not well! Every now and again it suddenly decides to stutter and run lumpy then for awhile bursts back into all cylinders firing. I've changed the plugs and leads and had the ignition coil checked. All seem to be well. I have also run some injector cleaner through. I have noticed that on idle there is a small misfire but others have not been able to detect it. Timing chains are quiet too. Any thoughts ? please. oooo just remembered, the oil is clean and there is no sign of white sludge and the water has no sign of oil in it.

Hi all. Doing the pre MOT check this morning and found out that the Fogs are not working. I've checked each bulb and they all work. I've checked all of the fuses , the rest of lights work as they should. The fog light switch lights up with side lights for the night illumination. However when I switch the switch to get fogs ... nothing switch dosn't show on or anything. Have tried a tester and have power to the central tabs and it seems that the top three are negative. Can any of you guys help at all... please

Test run a joyful success. Engine feels really good and sounds great. Got really good mpg to boot, 40.2 at one stage. Averaged out at 39.5. Promise I wasn't holding back either. My Vr6 has now covered 270460 miles from new. I got it when it had done 62500. Only had the clutch done 3000 miles ago! Frustrating that a £4.00 sensor halted it for so long. She is a 94 registered M plate. She has not been modified or played around with at all. Colour described as Blackberry ( Maroon ). Cloth interior ( no rips, no tears ) original carpets, in fact the interior is in great condition. ( cumfi too ) Just have to do one or two minor touches to the body work ( rust ) nothing major just niggling. Underneath is really very clean for its age and mileage.

Yes sorry I realize that now. Well it looks like she's back on the road. It turns out that it was the BLUE cold start sensor, replaced that this morning and have tried the car continually every hour or so and it starts straight away. Going to chance a small trip out a little later. I did put in a new 109 relay and that made no difference at all so now I have spares of crank and cam sensors + a spare 109 relay. Incidently this didn't show on the com at all.

Well here is the latest for my readers. Had the car running first thing for 5 mins!!! Started as if there was nothing wrong. Then I switched it off to try and see if it would re-start. Not a hope.... 4 hours later I threw in the towel. Just by pure luck I spotted a component on the many car spare parts websites I have trawled through that referred to the ecu. Temp sensor. ( The Blue One ) Is it possible that this is the cause of my woes? When cold it would start, the car that is, as soon as it gets warm it fails to start. I have continually checked the 109 relay and am convinced that it is working. However just so I have a spare I will be getting both of the above mentioned tomorrow. Will let you know. Atki

In one of the threads in the engine bay section someone mentioned the ecu needing to be re-mapped if the battery had been disconnected. How can you get that checked and would the re-mapping be easy to do? Or is it a case of VW only

Hi. I'll try again tomorrow. Pretty sure there are sparks but only on the first turn over. Thats when it almost kicks in.

Last time it was on ( Saturday ) it told me that it was a revolution sensor. I have since changed both of them now.

Well here we are again. Back to square one. The car drove for one day. Started it up on Monday morning, reversed out, switched off to wait for my other half. Went to restart. Same old once again, turns over but will not catch. Have spent the last two days spraying cleaning every electrical connector in the engine bay. Have now changed the crank sensor to. Still no go. Managed to unscrew the ecu plug in the bay to separate it and have sprayed that countless times now. cleaned and sprayed the cam shaft sensor and plug .Cleaned and sprayed the ecu socket and wires. Still the same old. The engine tries to fire up and gets close but does not pick up. From then on it cranks over but does not even try to fire. Let it rest... does the same again. Am I missing something or is there something more serious to worry about? If possible can some one explain to me the start up process of the car what I mean is what needs to be working in order for it to fire up? There is definitely petrol getting to where it needs to be. When removed the brand new plugs are wet. Battery on constant trickle charge but shows almost 12V. Have even cleaned and checked the ignition barrel. At one stage the starter motor went silent. Have also tested and checked relay 109. So sorry for the diatribe but what do I do next?

Hi all and especially to Rob. My Rado is back. The forum info has come up with the goods yet again. It's amazing what a can of WD can do for a car. I followed some of the instructions from the threads and was about to attempt to try to undo the big round plug when I thought spray it first. It worked !! She spluttered into life and very soon was running sweet.That was the issue, I hope, all along. So my next question is..... what can I do to prevent this happening all over again? No matter how hard I tried I could not separate the plug from its bracket let alone split it. Is there a little trick or is down to brute force and luck? Many thanks to Robrado for his threads and to all who came to my need. Atki aka Mike

Sorry to be a bit dim but what do you mean by the maf?

Hi Jim. It almost starts to run but never makes it. after the first nearly splutter it then fails to fire at all. I leave it a couple of mins and try again and it does the same thing again.

Hi AJ Atki here. did you manage to figure out what was wrong mines doing exactly the same thing.

Hi all. Here is the question. Why won't my b****y car start! It will turn over no problem. There is a spark and it's healthy, there is petrol in abundance! Car will cough ....then diddly squat! Have changed plugs, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor. Battery is good. Fuel pump good. Fuel relay working fine. Have checked airflow meter, idle valve, oil ( for water ) I'm lost as to what to do next. My mechanic friend has suggested that the cam shafts may have got out of line. and it's not making TDC. Going to check that next.!!!! HELP please HELP

Hi all. Just to up-date you on the clutch woes of my Vr6. The master cylinder had expired and it subsequently destroyed the release bearing causing the fork to run ( very noisily ) against the driven plate. Had to do the Gear box off + on on drive. New clutch kit and new master cylinder fitted. Had a brilliant mechanic do the job for me. If you are Norfolk or Suffolk based he is well worth it. VW specialist to boot !!

Hi Ian. Lets hope it is only the master C I 've just read the comments from easypops !!!

Hi easypops. Thanks for the comment. It fast getting to the point where the car is going to sit idle for quite awhile! Did a gearbox change some time ago on my scirroco Mk2 This one however for some reason ALWAYS bite back!! and costs me.

Had a feeling that would be the answer. must admit at the present time I'm sulking and the car is in my garage sitting idle. I havn't fiddled with anything so far but the fluids are fine. There are not any leaks anywhere and I havn't bled the clutch line. I'm gunna try the master and see what happens. Thanks for the advice though

Hi Ian. How will I know which one has gone please? Or am I going to have to replace both of them?

Hi all Mine is a very high mileage Vr6 and the latest to occur is the the clutch pedal not returning to it's normal position. When I depress it I cannot get reverse at all!!! Stick in first and the car is off with pedal still to floor. I suspect it's the master cylinder. Is it difficult to change? I know I can get one delivered how hard can it be. Yet again friends and fellow Rado owners I need help !!!