Atki

Mine is a very high mileage Vr6 and the latest to occur is the the clutch pedal not returning to it's normal position. When I depress it I cannot get reverse at all!!! Stick in first and the car is off with pedal still to floor. I suspect it's the master cylinder. Is it difficult to change? I know I can get one delivered how hard can it be. Yet again friends and fellow Rado owners I need help !!!

This is now sorted so many thanks. New issue started !!! Suspect it's the clutch master cylinder gone. Clutch pedal travel virtually zero !!! does it never end !!!

Many thanks Rob. I'll give it a go. I have released the fuel line and had fuel spray out. Are the relays easily available or is it a visit to the VW spares dept.

Atki] Hi all. Is there anybody out there who can advise me on my present problem with my Rado. It has now become a lottery as to whether she will fire up or not!!! She will turn over fine but not fire up. I go to the fuel pump, remove it, bench test it ( works ). Put it back in and retry, fires up first time. Next time she might or not !! Same routine again and she purrs once again. I have noticed that the pump is not priming itself with a little wrrrrr just before I attempt to start her up. I have since tested the wiring with a meter. Goes to 12v on first turn of key. Second to start and it flips to 12v again. So people out there what do you think is wrong. Is it the relay playing up? Is it the fuel pump? or could it be the ignition barrel. I really don't understand why removing the pump and putting back in again makes her start up again......please help

Hi all I just wanted to add to the very helpful info on how to change a Heater Matrix in a VR6 Corrado. In addition to the list of 8 helpful hints please add the following: After you have removed the dash gubbins and dis-connected all of the components. Undo the mid air vent unit ( two nuts ) and slide it out to your left. Then unscrew the demister unit at the front ( this can be left loose as it falls off after you have pulled out the heater box ) Unscrew and slide out the bottom unit that blows hot or in my case cold air into the car ( it slides out into the drivers foot well ). THEN you can lift out the whole blower and heater assembly much more easily. Refitting is much easier if you place the demister unit on the top of the heater box as you slide and persuade the thing back into place. the interior heater part will then slide back under from the drivers foot well quite easily. Yes it is possible to do without removing the the whole dash board. Saved myself well over 800 notes doing it this way. So thanks Forum. Tops again.

Thanks for the info people. The bearing will have to wait. Still can't shift it. Getting good at stripping it down though. Got the geo correct. A little trick I learnt using a piece of chalk. Atki. #PS I'll take the nutter comment as a joke !!!

Hi All. :confused4: Is there anyone out there who can help me with my latest issue with my Corrado? The front offside wheel bearing is growling and I thought I might be able to do it.!!!!! Wrong.!!!!! I have spent the best part of today fighting firstly to remove the hub nut ( I eventually had to drill it in several places to release it) That off I tried and failed to get the hub off from either the drive shaft spline or the bearing itself. A hub puller was used but it wouldn't shift or budge a mm. I then thought I'd dismantle the works and just slide the hub assembly off ( not a hope) Am I missing something or is this a common fault. Also how the hell do I get the hub off to change the bearing. It can't be this hard can it?? Regards Atki

Hi Fla. Thanks for the heads up with the shaft. The oil filter was changed a week prior to this niggle happening and she had new oil to boot. It all stems from an incident with the oil cooler seals dumping oil over the underside of the car, the road, my drive and garage floor !!!! Atki

Hi Kevhaywire. Thanks for the comments are you able to give some blow by blow instructions ? Or is the following correct. Remove the sump ( after emptying the oil ) Undo the oil pump !!! slot the new one in, put the sump back on, refill the oil and fire up the car or are there some little tricks or things that might catch me out. Atki

Hi all. I have an issue with my VR6 concerning the oil pressure warning light and alarm which after a days work on leads me to believe that my oil pump is on the way out !! An early morning start for work was cut short after the oil light and alarm started sounding big time. Having very recently changing the seals on the oil cooler my first thought was **** there goes the oil. However there are no leaks. I therefore pottered off and got a new oil pressure switch fitted the said switch feeling confident that the alarm and light would stay quiet. Oh no off it went at 2k and above!! I did the the wire check as mentioned on one of the forums to confirm that the wiring is sound. As far as I can tell it is. Yellow wire to ground silenced the alarm as suggested. So now it's the oil pump. Is it as easy to get at as I think ie: remove the sump and there it is ?? or should I blow the expence and get my very good VW garage to have a bash? Can anyone offer any advice on how I can do it myself as my wallet has taken a severe bashing just recently and more to the point I'm already missing the VR effect !!! Atki

Hi Fla Many thanks for that info. I had a feeling that it was the 22mm cap that I was to try to undo but I wanted to be sure before I inflicted any more damage or expense !! Michael

Hi all. I've had a major problem occur with my darling VR6. Having lost !! approximately 5ltrs of engine oil over a trip of about 250 miles and following numerous top ups I have finally managed to track down the leak. However what I cannot seem to be able to find out from anywhere is how to remove the actual oil cooler unit ( which has a leak of massive proportions behind it ). I have got as far as being able to remove the oil filter unit but I cannot figure out what to do next. HELP Please Michael