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Refurbishing my Aug 92 Tornado Red G60, (Car1) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Using a second car 91 Blue G60 for spares, (Car2) Car1's intercooler has suffered battery acid damage. Under some of the lower casing seal clamps, the aluminium has completely disintegrated, and been replaced by what looks like hard salt. I'm using the best parts of the two intercoolers from both cars. Corroded casing and clamps is another good reason to do this to make sure your engine isn't sucking in dirty air or worse! Car2's intercooler has been damaged in a colision. It's top bracket mount is broke. Car1's top mount is ok. So swop the two over! OK. Wd40 on the steel clamps. Hammer and screwdriver on a workmate bench to knock the clamps off. Removing the lids, surely there is some slide out method? Nope :brickwall: OK - bend open the lid retaining aluminium tabs on both intercoolers. Prise off the lids, after plenty of hammering and swearing. What a mess - :eek: Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdf2010 05 30 - Intercooler Parts.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] I used Loctite '5699 grey' on the lid seal, and Dow Corning Auto Seal 'Black', on the outlet boost pipe. Book1.pdf2010 07 02 - Intercooler Refurb - Sealant Purchases - IMG_3421.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Chose the 5699 for it's oil resistance. Got them both on ebay for bargain prices. 5699 Spec Info - Recommended for sealing all types of flanges including stamped sheet metal where water glycol resistance is required. Features & Benefits * For flanges with permanent oil contact / * Can be used for metal, plastic and painted parts / * Low odour / * Non-corrosive * Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets / * Temperature resistance: -55°C to 250°C intermittent Your local Halfrauds might stock the 5699 in expensive small tubes if your pushed! Loctite 5699 Premium Silicone Grey Gasket Maker/Sealant - £ 5.49 ( 80 ml ) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... =IOV4PLPZ1 Cleaned up all the bolts and casing, and brackets with a Wire Wheel on my drill. Everything Cleans up pretty well. Used an old style retracting stanley knife to help break out the salt residues baked into some of the steel clamps. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Lid Clamps Buff Up Great - IMG_3437.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Main bracket treatment steps - (See the two oblong components near the front cross member / valence. (this was pretty badly corroded on one car and is a robust part worth protecting, so it got the full works, alongside other main components) ETKA Corrado.pdf2010 06 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Bracket Paint Treatment - With Other Components - IMG_3337.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] (01) 'Marine Clean' degreaser, (02) 'Metal Ready' Zinc Phosphate etcher, (03) POR15 (rust prevention paint), (04) POR15 Chassis Black. The spec of the main bracket bolts and washers has changed. They are now separate items and one of the bolt's washers has to be sliced to fit properly. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf2010 07 01 - 03 Intercooler Refurb - IMG_3415 & 3417 & 3419 - Collage 02.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] The Intercooler Casings clean up pretty good with a wire wheel. Treated the sub-brackets with 'Marine Clean' Degreaser, 'Metal ready' Etcher, then a bit of POR15 Chassis Black, I had left. It's worth masking them up to keep the job half tidy. Works pretty good too. Corrado92.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Lid Sealant - Reassembled - PTFE Removal.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] After making sure the lid fits without any struggle (by bending open any aluminium clasp tabs that needed it), I squirted a heavy bead of 5699 straight onto the old black ring of sealant. Left this for about three mins then squeezed the lid on (Making sure it was the right way round!). Instructions indicate to make any fitting within 5 mins!!. Left the lot to go off for 24 hours. Next day bent over the aluminium clasp tabs. Some of them cracked and some broke off, but this doesn't affect the final seal, so long as you fit all the steel clamps. Trimmed off any excess hardened sealant. Some of the bead errupted with liquid sealant when I squeezed on the clasps. Just wiped away excess with a rag. Guess the bead was very heavy :eek:, No worries. Hammered on the steel clamps. If you get the angle right they clip on sweetly using a few taps with a small hammer. Get the angle wrong and they chew the aluminium casing up savagely :norty:. If your muttering WTF!, yes, that's a vacuum cleaner attached to the refurbed intercooler :) . If 5699 has PTFE in it (possibly smelling like tipex, but not sure about this), leaving the lot alone for a few days will allow most of the curing to finish. Blasting the charger through with a hair dryer will dry it out nicely (though watch it don't get too hot), and sucking through with a vacuum cleaner for a few hours just before fitting should remove any remaining gases you don't want fouling up the oxygen sensor. Used some boost tubes, duck tape and some old innertube to set this up. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Good Lid Stuck Back On & Clamped - IMG_3442 & 3443.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Quite pleased with the end result. It is definately better sealed, better clamped and cleaner. I would definately recommend working on your intercooler, but prising off the lid or base should only be done if your really worried about the state of either the top or bottom beads (possibly after battery corrosion like with mine). OK so it just remains to sort out boost pipe sealing and fitting. Found some neat improvements to do here too ! :) . climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Seal Up Pesky Oval Outlet - IMG_3444 & 3446.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Used a (12mm wide) 60-80mm MIKALOR Worm Drive Hose clip for the oval boost pipes. The one to the intercooler needs additional sealing help. I used a generous bead of Dow Corning Auto 'black' sealant for this. Apply a heavy bead to the intercooler lid oval pipe, somewhere between the pink lines on the diagram. Then squeeze on the boost pipe. Then squeeze on the pre-shaped clip. The worm drive clip can be pre-shaped using the other oval section of boost pipe as a shaping mould. Ensure the screw clamp is roughly central to the straight bit. When pressed home, smooth off the sealant with a gloved finger and tighten the clamp. Pretty neat job, and this wider clamp is a deffo upgrade on the former rat's tail screw clamp. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Inlet & Outlet Clamps - IMG_3455.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Secured the circular booost pipe fittings with Mikalor Supra W2 Heavy Duty Hose Clamps 68-73mm. They fit with a chunky 13mm bolt, and create a proper circular clamping action to the boost pipes for what looks like a great seal. They look the biz too (IMO)! 2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Newly Mounted - IMG_3451 & 3461.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] The top mount bracket needs a large washer with a small bore diameter hole. All the fitting work on the brackets, clamps, nuts and bolts has really improved this unit overall. I guess that's what this refurb is all about.

Hi Yanards, great thread on setting the cam belt timing, but I'm a complete newbie at this and this guide is way over my head. Can you recommend a thread or threads that a complete novice can follow? My cam belt definately needs replacing, and I think I should also replace the cam belt tensioner and crank shaft seal while I am at this. I need a simple guide to cover this lot but haven't found one yet. Cheers. :D

Refurbishing my Aug 92 TornadoRed G60 Rado (Car1) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Using a second car 91 Blue G60 for spares, (Car2) Sub Thread - Refurbishing the Oil Cooler This is one of the many jobs discovered along the way ... How it was done. Bits bought to do it. Things learnt along the way. Car1's (top right) had a slight leak with oil all over it. Car2's (top left) was bone dry, and turned out to be the better of the two. Car2 is definately coming in handy as more than just a supercharger donor. Corrado92.pdf001 - 2010 05 29 - Oil Cooler Clean Refurb - 01.JPG[/attachment:dntzlcvf] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf002 - 2010 05 28 - Oil-Cooler-Component-Fitting-Schema.JPG[/attachment:dntzlcvf] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf003 - 2010 05 29 - Oil Cooler Install 01.JPG[/attachment:dntzlcvf] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf004 - 2010 05 29 - Oil Cooler Nasties.JPG[/attachment:dntzlcvf] 005 - 2010 05 29 - Oil Cooler Install 02.JPG[/attachment:dntzlcvf] Things learnt & thoughts : Not likin the idea of some acidic stuff getting into the oil coils, but this was kept to a minimum. There's probably a better way. Aluminium cleaner is probably a bit harsh. Can't believe how the oil cooler's water pipes coroded through on Car1. The new oil seal is visibly fatter and has a mod to help it fit better. The large central oil feed rod, fouls one of the fixing allen bolts. Happily this unscrews. The sensors have the same fitting thread and bore, so best to note how they are arranged. On Mine they are : Large one ( yellow wire ),at the back, and small one ( green wire ), to the front. Sure I was careful but one of the water pipes got damaged dismantlin Car1's oil cooler. Luckily Car2 came to the rescue with a good stand in part - phew :grin: No idea what the orange stuff was in the replacement water pipe from Car2. Quick flush with a hosepipe sorted it! The oil cooler aluminium body is date stamped underneath. The oil cooler date stamp on my August Registered 1992 Rad, was ( 03/92 ). Car2's stamp was ( 12/91 ) ! There are two engine block gaskets listed for this part. Go for the cheaper one which is listed below. Savin a bit of bread for once :eek: Used brand new engine oil to soak the new bolts in just before fitting. Also wet the gasket and block mating surface with this before fitting. Coated the top of the bolt heads with Loctite copper grease to prevent gung filling them in. Any sage comments or tips of wisdom about this info would be much appreciated. Just stumbling along here :) Bits Donatedf by Car2 : Oil Cooler Water Feed Pipe Bits Bought : 3 x New Fixing bolts - VAG Part No - 090 315 1 - [ £3.00 ] 1 Engine Block Gasket - VAG Part No - 026 115 441 A - [ £ 1.37 ] 1 Oil Seal - VAG Part No - V038 117 070 A - [ £ 3.53 ] VW Dealer - Gilbert Lawton - Manchester Volkswagen - ( Cornbrook Sidings, Bridgewater Way, Old Trafford, Manchester, M16 9HT ) T : 0161 607 1313 W : http://www.volkswagenmanchester.co.uk/Contact.aspx 1L Aluminium Cleaner - Product Code - 059930206 - [ £ 4.10 ] Machine Mart - ( 1 Thynne Street - Bolton - BL3 6BD ) T : 01204 365 799 W : http://www.machinemart.co.uk Other stuff used : Heavy Duty Rubber Gloves (can only find these at Tesco these days) One old toothbrush Sponge backed pan scourer Few rags Couple of old plastic bowls A vice to grip the mount bracket while unscrewing the threaded oil feed column. Job done. Thanks anyone piping up with useful stuffs!

Continued From First Half Of this topic : G60 Crossmember Radiator Support / Valance - Blus (01 of 02) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93205 When buying your replacement Valence - Front Cross Member - Radiator Support, (10) Watch Out For Seized Sheered Bolt Remnants These can be fixed, but make sure you ask about them cos they are a little extra work to sort out! climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf10 - Watch Out For Seized Sheered Bolt Remnants - IMG_3157.JPG[/attachment:32dmwc70] (11) Replacement Cross Member - Valance Rad Support See the rust on it. If you can get a really clean one, I guess your lucky! Where's that Wire Brush? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf11 - Replacement Cross Member - Valance Rad Support - IMG_3159.JPG[/attachment:32dmwc70] (12) Request For Suggestions - What To Do About That Rust ? Anyone know any (Shot Blasting / Metal Finisher) Businesses In Manchester? Anyone got any cool ideas on DIY methods for preserving this rust prone part? 12 - What To Do About That Rust - IMG_3158.JPG[/attachment:32dmwc70] This is a sub thread from my main Corrado Refurbishment Thread : The Never Ending G60 Corrado Refurbishment Project http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Found this handy site with a range of products for fighting rust. Anyone used any of this stuff? How Do I Stop Rust Permanently http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=15

Refurbishing my beloved 1992 Tornado Red G60 Corrado: Main Thread : The Never Ending G60 Corrado Refurbishment Project http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Knew the "Front Crossmember Radiator Support Valance" was shot. Eyeing it nervously from above the engine bay, was scratching my head on what to do about this nasty lump of rust. Figured I'm not the only person out there who's faced this one. This thread covers removing and replacing the culprit. (00) Rust-Nest Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdf00 -Rust-Nest-IMG_2882.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (01) Part-Number-191 199 171E Book1.pdf01 -Part-Number-191 199 171E-IMG_2882.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (02) Good Parts Ebay Sellers Pic stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf02 -Good Parts Ebay Sellers Pic.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (03) Front Cross Member Parts-Schema Diagram ETKA Corrado.pdf03 - Front Cross Member Parts-Schema Diagram.jpg[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (04) Jacking The Engine Before Releasing FM Bolts Jacked height is about 23cm. Jack up by the sump casing (using a wood block) and rest the engine on what I think is the clutch housing or gearbox. Doing this before you loosen the cross member central bolts will stop the engine from landing on your head. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf04 - Jacking The Engine Before Releasing FM Bolts - IMG_3148.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (05) Loose The Two 17mm Bolts Not The Middle 13mm One Corrado92.pdf05 - Loose The Two 17mm Bolts Not The Middle 13mm One - IMG_3138.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (06) Front Bumper Is Part Of The Subframe passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf06 - Front Bumper Is Part Of The Subframe - IMG_3143.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (07) Rust Nest Removed climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf07 - Rust Nest Removed - IMG_3151.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (08) Amazing What You Can Do With Some Hacked 6by2 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf08 - Amazing What You Can Do With Some Hacked 6by2 - IMG_3160.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] (09) Front Cross Member Components Removed 09 - Front Cross Member Components Removed - IMG_3152.JPG[/attachment:7e3ebtcm] This topic is continued in the second half of this thread : G60 Crossmember Radiator Support / Valance - Blus (02 of 02) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93206

Reply from Snapon today ! its GIL3954-14 and its £46.95 + vat and its in stock here. you can order this over the phone or online 01536 413904 http://www.snapon.com/uk They seem to be known as - "Rigiflex hose clamp pliers", and they don't seem to be listed on the "snapon.com/uk" website!

Cheers Jon_vr6 - Got my 150pc pro toolkit from Halfords after sage advice from Henny. Slimg60 - do they sell individual clamps in different sizes or do I have to buy ten at a time or something daft like that? You wouldn't have the list of clamps you bought for all your boost pipes would you :) Did you get them direct from the makers or through a distributor? Cheers guys.

Hi, as a newbie, was hoping for some sage advice from my betters on some fixings, I'm refurbishing my 92 G60 Rad, and could use some advice here. Refurb Main Thread - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Can anyone recommend a maker and supplier of quality screw ring fixings. Mine are in various stages of rust and mishape so I figure there's probably a better way. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf2010 05 15 - Screw Ring Fixings - IMG_3111.JPG[/attachment:36jtyjuw] Any advice on replacing these compression ring fixings? What are they called? What is the best tool for handling these? I'm using pliers, curses and bruised knuckles, so there's probably a better way. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 05 15 - Compression Ring Fixings - IMG_3113.JPG[/attachment:36jtyjuw] OK - My local VW garage kindly showed me the tool they use to apply the compression Ring Fixing clips. It is made by Blue Point and has the part number 3954-14 on it. Does anyone know what it is called and where to ghet one cos the garage didn't. Circular Compression Pipe Clip Tool - Blue Point - 3854-14.JPG[/attachment:36jtyjuw] Cheers!!

Here's a list of the bits I'm buying for now in preparation for the charger re-fit when it comes back from G-Werks. The budget's getting squeezed, so I'm gonna pick the best bolt fixings between the two cars. ~Can anyone recommend a decent Anti-Sieze compound for the bolts? ~Can anyone say where to get part number 29 from? It's a large round profile gasket that sits in the middle of the silencer halves. VW guys say you can't buy it anymore. ~Can anyone recommend a decent silicone sealant? ~Can anyone recommend a brand of really decent screw spiral 'o' clips for the larger hose fittings? Mine are a bit tired and rusted. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf0-Supercharger-Refurb-Replaceables.jpg[/attachment:1jfh8o8p] 1-Charger-refurb-Replacement-Fitting-Parts-List.JPG[/attachment:1jfh8o8p]

Update from the stealers - Gilbert Lawton - Mcr - ( 0161 607 1313 ) - actually really helpful guys ... It's item 8 on the schema picture below. It's for a 91 corrado rad, but the connector looks same as my 92. It's actually 2 parts. (#01) A black 'rubber boot' covering. Part number - V867 972 B ( Grommet ) Price - £2.73 inc VAT. (#02) The three pin connector with white plastic housing. Part number - V893 906 231 (Terminal Pin Ho) Price - £1.93 inc VAT. 008-RadElecConnector.JPG[/attachment:13gn011f]

Just a thought here, probably nothing to do with your problem, but I once had niggling electrical hassles with my 92 G60. One day when I ran through a big puddle, the engine sputtered, and finally a shortout caused some wires to fry and smoke. My mechanic at the time confirmed some loom wires were rubbing against the engine. The engine had been moving in the engine bay too much because the front engine mount (support / damper) was knackered. After a £160 bill from the auto electricians, and about £80 from my mechanic, it was all sorted. Just a thought mate. Gud luck!

Cheers - Henny. There's an 'o' ring on both the engine block and the bracket itself. It could just be staining from a previous o'ring. Rob at G-Werks has promised to pop one in the box when he posts my serviced charger back.

Cheers - drewiee99, I'm tryin to keep this refurb pure. No silicon unless essential. I'll look up the o'ring option buddie.

On both the replacement and original cars, looks like there should be a gasket behind the lower part of the Charger bracket where it mates to the engine block. It's an unused port anyway, on the G60 at least. Anyone know about a gasket for this to ensure a good seal, or any good solution? Looks like sealant has been used before on both cars, and it hasn't kept a good seal on either of them. Cheers for any help with this. Charger-Bracket-Gasket-Needed-IMG_2899.JPG[/attachment:gcntmfdj]

Nice post fendervg. Will update on progress when have news from stealers. :)

Hi - cheers for the advice. It's not clear what I'll get from the stealers. Have you any pics to post for your advice cos it's hard to visualise exactly what you mean?

Welcome to this sub-thread on refurbishing my (Red) 1992 Corrado G60. I blew the supercharger when the charger timing belt broke. There are nice new holes in the charger casing. See the primary thread for this work here ... The Never Ending G60 Corrado Refurbishment Project http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Use this thread for general info on refurbing your G60 supercharger unit, and or sourcing another car for spares. This one will be removed from the vehicle, sent down to Gwerks for a service then fitted to my primary (red) G60 Corrado. So I have bought a (blue) G60 Corrado for over £1K for spares. Why spend so much just to replace the supercharger which will need a £400 service anyway! My (Red) G60 needs so many parts to refurbish it, that buying another better car seemed a sensible option. This sub-thread is about removing the replacement car supercharger, and things I have found along the way. I had originally hoped to simply take the second car's supercharger off, bolt it onto my red car and drive it down to Gwerks for a full 12 month warrantied charger service. Ahermmm!!! :brickwall: Things didn't quite work out that way... Please bear in mind any info I offer on here is layman's advice only. I am a real beginner, but learning quickly as I go along. If in doubt, get a second opinion. I made a b-line for one in completely stock condition. No bad-boy race mods, no fangle chargers under the hood, all bits in working order and a tidy front end with good lights and bumper cos my car's front end has had several prangs. The replacement car was advertised on ebay for spares, and after some eye watering bidding, I won it for £1,170.00 (Ouch !!) See the compressed ebay pics below ... climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf2010 03 01 - Ebay Purchase-Jan31st92Corrado-Resized.JPG[/attachment:1hfcly35] Caveat Emptor (Let The Buyer Beware), Half decent unmolested G60's are starting to get as rare as rockin horse s**t! Expect to pay through the nose for one! Next problem - it's in Kent, about 250 miles away. The seller was really helpful and driving it back to Manchester on my third party (any vehicle) insurance did the trick. If your doing it strictly by the book, you should really arrange separate specific insurance through your insurer. Adrian Flux do this and offer 1 day or 1 week insurance for about £100. We didn't complete the V5C paperwork and title sale transfer until I had it back to Manchester (wink wink). :wink: I checked the car was taxed, and fully insured by the seller through their motor trader policy before setting off. Sorry if this is stating the obvious, but - you MUST MUST arrange this BEFORE travelling down to collect your motor. I bought the car solely on the strength of the pics and a conversation with the seller. He seemed a genuine bloke, had been trading on ebay for 6 years, and had nearly %100 positive feedback. If any major problems presented themselves when I collected the car, It was probably too bad! Always view before buying if possible. As luck would have it, I didn't do too bad with this one. It started sweetly, and I had been assured that oil and water levels were fine. I had got assurance from the seller the radiator fan kicked in when the engine got hot, but it's probably best to check this before you set off. The car ran fine and the juice cost about £40. No smoking or strange noises from the engine, no strange noises from the supercharger, no crunching from the gearbox, no overheating, spoiler, sunroof, windows, rear wiper jet, front wipers all working. Happy days :lol: After 237 trouble free motorway Miles, it did leave me stranded on a car park about 3 miles from home. A bump start from some helpful cabbies had me on my way again. After stripping out the charger and rad, I discovered some very dodgy wiring to the starter motor. Mystery solved! The next day, I sprayed wd40 on all the charger fixing bolts I could see. The idea was to unsieze any bolts that might be a bit tight. It takes a few days to penetrate. (Not sure if there is specialist penetrant oil available) A few days later when I had chance, I stripped out the supercharger. At this stage I have a crappy toolkit, but as this was my second charger removal, I had a few tricks ready to go. Check this link for general info on the G60 supercharger from a very acomplished enthusiast http://corradog60project.blogspot.com/2008/10/glader-supercharger.html Check this site for info on the charger rebuild process: http://www.matey-matey.com/g60-rebuild-article.shtml Check this site out for info on removing your charger unit and getting nice new spangly fixing bolts for it! http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/node/46 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 04 24 - G60 Blue Parts Charger Before Removal - IMG_2872.JPG[/attachment:1hfcly35]Note the oil leakage around the charger inlet and outlet port casing connectors. I think this is a sure sign the apex seals are heavily worn, but I guess the G-Werks guys will confirm this when they recieve it. The charger made no strange noises during my journey home, but it didn't provide much boost either, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. 2010 05 02 - Came across a manual and an excellent exploded pic of the supercharger. Should come in handy for ordering bits and pieces for the reinstall when it returns from G-Werks. It has the Torque settings too. Nyone know how accurate these are in practice? G60-Exploded-Parts-View.jpg[/attachment:1hfcly35] Keep coming back for further updates to this thread. Cheers !

Removed the radiator temp sensor connector and it didn't look good at all. Uh Ho !!! The radiator temperature sensor connector on my 92 g60 corrado was knackered. From reading up on it here; this would mean a never stopping rad fan and constant flat battery. :( Looked like leakage from the rad temp sensor housing, had dried up and corroded the connector. You can see this in the pic. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf001 - 2010 05 26 - Knackered Rad Temp Sensor Connector.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] Here's how it was done. Any 'useful' supplementary info to fill out or embelish missed details would be appreciated. Apologies for out of focus pics. Camera's playin up, but probably my lack of camera knowhow :scratch: Depending on how badly yours is damaged, you can buy - new wire terminators (more details ???) (you'll need to get a rachet crimp tool as well if you do this(more details ???)) a new rubber boot (grommet) VAG Part Number - "V867 972 525 B" Grommet £2.73 a new plastic connector housing VAG Part Number - "V893 906 231" N/STK Terminal Pin H £1.93 an adapter to mate the connector to an updated temp sender (no idea about this as it was already done on the car with the rad I am using(more details ???)) Scratched my head for a bit then made a call to my friendly 'local' VW dealers - Gilbert Lawton. The part number on the old plastic connector housing was not recognized on the Dealer's ETKA system. The Radiator Parts Schema Diagram for this is not brimming with detail about this part and it's sub-components. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf003 - RadiatorPartsSchema.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] I checked the radiator on my 'parts' car. This had a fangle adapter lug mating to the radiator temp sensor. I liked the look of this, as it seemed the adapter lug should protect the connector from any leakage residue. I decided to use this rad in my car with the fangle adapter lug (pic below), but I still had to fix my connector. ETKA Corrado.pdf002 - 2010 05 26 - Temp Sensor Connector Adapter.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] The connector on my parts car was mint, but you unfortunately you can't just unplug them. I made a note on a piece of paper how the wires ran into the connector. Corrado92.pdf004 - 2010 05 26 - Extracted Wires & Connectors - IMG_3224.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] Using a vice to support the connector, I 'knocked' the terminals out of the connector block one at a time. I used a very small flat bladed screwdriver and a small hammer to do this. The terminators can be clicked out of place by pressing the blade of the screwdriver up the flat face of each terminator plate. Once clicked out they either slip straight out of the connector, or can be eased out with a gentle tap from the screwdriver and hammer. I took great care over this as I didn't want to damage any of the terminators. I have no idea what these are, but I am pretty sure you need a rachet crimp tool to re-make them up properly.(more details ???) It's quite risky knocking the terminators out with a hammer and screwdriver. You can get a proper terminator extractor tool to do this. (more details ???) I used the small screwdriver to 'scrape' hardened residue out of the worst affected terminal. I checked all three terminators for tightness - (Before slotting them into the new connector housing !!) Any loose ones were 'tightened' up by pressing the copper loops against the flat face of the terminator. Simple job to press them home one at a time into the new connector block and snap it shut. Surprising how positively they clicked into place. It does matter which way round the loops go into the plastic housing! (This is where the simple drawing made earlier - really comes in handy! - see below.) passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf005 - 2010 05 26 - Wires Fitted Into New Housing - IMG_3228.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] Simply pull the old rubber boot (grommet) snugly over the newly fitted plastic housing. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf006 - 2010 05 26 - Old Grommet Pulled Up To New Housing - IMG_3229.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] If your rad is fitted with (what I assume is), an upgraded temp sensor housing, fit the adaptor lug. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf007 - 2010 05 26 - Adapter Fitted To Refurbed Connector - IMG_3233.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] Another refurb job sorted. Come On !! :D Sometimes, small things bring insane amounts of pleasure! Welcome to the strange world of yet another Corrado lover. Thanks people for inspired and helpful posts - furthering the cause :salute: 008 - 2010 05 26 - Rad Temp Sensor Connector Then & Now.JPG[/attachment:3d3sriik] This refurb work is part of a larger thread about my G60 Refurb Project, and lots of other nasties occuring along the way. The Never Ending G60 Corrado Refurbishment Project http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928

Thanks to Rustynuts & Henny for tooling advice. Having removed it, the Charger was destroyed by failure of the small charger belt. You can see the snapped belt and the hole in the charger casing that resulted. Wow - a £1500 project for the sake of a belt costing less than £20 quid. :pale: This is a warning to all Corrado G60 owners, even if you can't afford or be bothered to rebuild your charger, DO get your charger belt renewed. Especially if it's been more than 2 years since the last one. My belt and charger had done around 200K miles so to say I was pushing my luck is being kind, but the thought that I might have done this a few weeks ago, before the belt snapped is sobering. I am now trying to compile a list of other critical work that will hopefully save any more tears at bedtime. With inexperience and minimal (crappy) tools, It took me hours to remove the charger. As this is the first significant work I have ever done on the car, this has revealed a few things. People (butchers) who have worked on it in the past have left a trail of sorrow ... :cry: ~A Missing Bolt on the charger inlet casing. ~Overtightened screws on the charger inlet casing leading to seizure and breaking of one of the screw housings when I tried to undo it. (See a later pic). Unavoidable unless you have about a week for penetrant to soak in! ~An intercooler outlet hose clip put on the wrong way round forcing me to remove the radiator to get the charger out. ~A missing gasket on the main charger support bracket that mates to the engine block (the source of a mysterious oil leak!) ~A bottom radiator to block (hose clip) put in the wrong place and threatening to throttle or at least tear the hose! This confirms what I already suspected, garages who are eager to take your money, can rush and botch jobs leaving a trail of damage and a nest of nasties (hidden problems). Just glad I am doing this job myself now. A thank you to everyone contributing to this post to help the less experienced G60 lovers keep their GLaders Turning. :salute: Posts and pics of replacement bolts, gaskets and other parts to follow ...

Thanks Sam - have sent an email asking for help with this. Will post the reply here :-)

These guys seem to know a thing or two about charger rebuilds. Thanks to - Benjo for this link(not sure he wanted me to credit him here! anyways) There are pictures (always helpful) and even part numbers for bolts and washers. http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/node/46 Check out their funky charger rebuild respray jobs! http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/node/36

Hi, welcome to this thread on refurbishing my (red) 1992 VW Corrado G60. I've owned my now slightly tatty Corrado for 12 years and am loathe to give her up. When she's working, she drives like a dream and still puts a smile on my face. I'll be running through all the problems I find in tearing replacement parts off a similar (blue) G60 I have bought for spares to get the red car back up and running. The supercharger on my (red) 1992 VW Corrado G60 failed in March 2010. The small charger timer belt snapped as I did not get round to replacing it in time. The charger had done at least 180K to 230K with the original belt and without a charger service. Your probably wondering how the charger and belt lasted this long and why I didn't get it sorted before it failed? What can I say? :nuts: I'm wiser now and this is the first time I've done any serious under the hood work on this car or any car. I suspect regular 5 - 8K oil changes of Fully Synthetic Synta Gold engine lube has something to do with the charger lasting this long without a service. Shame the belt broke, cos the charger internals actually look fine, except for the new casing breather holes :cry: . I bought a blue G60 corrado on Ebay (for spares) and collected it from Kent in April. Drove it back to Manchester without a hitch. Its got a charger that I have now had serviced by G-Werks. It also has lots of parts my red G60 needs to improve it and fix all the bits that are broken and bent like the entire front end, doors, rear spoiler wiper jet, and rear spoiler etc etc... Updates - See current Condition of the car! There's something cool about this motor, even when she's stripped down. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf009-TornadoRed-92-G60-Cor-21 May 2010 0844-IMG_3139.JPG[/attachment:1oqffwi9] See my sub-thread on information about the Valance --- Sure hope I can work out how to put all this back together! 010-TornadoRed-92-G60-Cor-21 May 2010 1125-IMG_3152.JPG[/attachment:1oqffwi9] Bought the Halfords (£99.00 - Pro 150) Toolkit and as Henny advised it is the biz!. All the front end is off. Charger is back from G-Werks, looks absolutely mint :clap:. Have sourced a replacement front 'valance / rad support' crossmember, and am now scratching my head about how to treat it's minor rust effectivelty. About to tear up the Blue Corrado. Do keep an eye on this thread as it will be changing and growing as the work progresses. Sub threads - detailing other work tasks that are arising as this refurb project progresses ... (001) G60 Supercharger Refurbishment Work (Details on the charger being sent to G-Works for a service) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92075 (002) Radiator Temp Sensor Refurb http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92070 (003) Rad support - front cross member - valance - removal and replacement Part 1 - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93205 Part 2 - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93206 (004) Oil Cooler Refurb http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93247 Thank you for any help offered. Jerry.