RowanVW

Hi mate, don't want to sound like an A**e but could you please take the time to read the description - I.E. PM or e-mail me - I hate how clogged up these threads get - it does my head in, lol :) I will update the main page information every evening after work! I have now added the paint description to the article - If you have any specific photo requests I have a decent SLR and a bit of time in the evenings... VR6 Pete - if you send me an e-mail - I can send you a photo detailing the exact condition, I would say its average however it has been sprayed red! I think I have one back in Stoke in green. Anything people send me - photo requests etc will be added to the article above... cheers, hope this doesn't come across as unreasonable!

Hi all, I have taken the sad decision to break my lovely fun 16v Corrado project to save up for a purple VR6 ~ Hopefully keeping some other Corrado's going in the process! CAN I PLEASE ASK ALL QUESTIONS/ OFFERS/ REQUESTS/ RESERVATIONS BE SENT TO MY EMAIL: [email protected] or via PM on the Corrado forum - I would like to keep ONE post and continually update the information instead of replying to a multitude of comments below- Thanks in advance :) Some items are on Ebay so please be patient as I juggle between this forum and that! (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/prompt4buys) The car is being broken because I am unhappy with the paintwork - A DIY job; Pick up is welcome in West Sussex area and can deliver average size items to Staffordshire once every month when I visit family... Corrado is in BMW Metallic Black, it is the early model! I will post all reasonably sized items (Buyer pays postage) I'm down the post office every 2 days :) My Photobucket Album With Prices - I will keep updated when items have sold. http://photobucket.com/rowanvwcorrado - ALBUM LINK WITH PRICING http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r92/Rowanofrohan/Corrado%20Breaking%202012/?start=all - ALBUM LINK SHOWING ALL PHOTOS Items for sale, but not currently listed/ photographed/ removed from car: Items and Prices - When I have taken photos of these items I will move them too the Photobucket album! Engine Block ABF 2.0 (108k) - £115 Cylinder Head ABF 16v (108k) - £50 Rocker Cover - Recent Gaskets - Oil Cap - Painted Red - £20 Gearbox From MK3 Golf GTI (108k) - £80 4 x Alloy Wheels Golf GTI MK3 Wheels w/ good tyres - £150 Suspension - FK - Less than 7,000 miles done! £100 Brake Discs - £40 for all 4 Brake Callipers - £30 fronts - £20 rears Brake Master Cylinder - £20 Straight through exhaust system w/o CAT - over £400 paid with receipts somewhere - £100 Spoiler £20 - Spoiler Motor Assembly - £20 Windscreen - £120 - Replaced 6 Months ago for £180 Door glass - £10 per side Electric Window Motors - £30 each side w/mechanism Rear Strut Brace - £30 Rear Lights - £12 each - £35 for set - Immaculate condition Front Bumper - £15 - 90mm Splitter slight damage £50 Front Fogs great condition - £30 each Front headlights great condition - £35 each Grill 7 Slat W/Black Badge - £25 16v Badges front - £16 /rear - £8/ - Black Corrado badge - £10 Clutch Master cylinder Slave Cylinder - £20 Clutch Assembly e.g. plate, fork and bearing And much much more, listed soon - If you have any requests - drop me an e-mail!

For future reference - Will be shortly replacing the crank sensor - will update with results...

Run the car until it cut out again; It cut out at between 70 and 75 degrees leading me to think it must be temperature related, no new error codes though, so no idea whats failing!

Got a new cable, much better this time I must say! Codes; 00525 - O2 Sensor Voltage Low 17978 - Engine Start Blocked By Immobiliser Ignoring the second one as my car always starts at first it must be a problem with the O2 sensor - I have never heard of the Lambda stopping the car from running though, or stopping the engine run on all cylinders - Surely it just means that the car will run more unefficiently as it struggles to balance lean and rich... Does anyone know whether removing the battery causes the codes to be reset as I have just replaced a dead battery? Cheers!?

Ahhh, well I spent ages on it, scouring forums and trying loads of different things, then the light on it stopped working and it wouldn't connect at all! I think I am going to be trying one of the cheap cables again so I can get the car back up and running! Might have just been unlucky the first time!

Thanks for the replies all! ~The car was off the road for 6 months so I took the oppurtunity to check all connection + WD40 and wire brush them so I should hope they are still ok... All of the earth straps seem fine for the age of the car. I would like to buy a VAGCOM scanner, the last cheap one I bought didn't work though, could you point me in the direction of the one you got D3927? Would be great - Thanks again... :)

Hi all, After 7 trouble free months of Corrado ownership I ruined it by spending money on the car even though it wasn't broken - stupid I know - by buying some new HT leads. After fitting these the car ran fine, even completing the 220 mile trip back down south and then a weeks worth of journeys to work until on the Friday, it broke down right on the gates of work and I had to be pushed in... Symptoms: What felt like a drop to 3 cylinders, then 2 cylinders, then 1 before refusing to start at all - with the accompanying loss off power and spitfire soundtrack during its dying breaths. After speaking to the recovery man and doing a head gasket test (which passed) we decided it was timing related/ ignition system and after changing the dizzy cap and rotor arm the car started and ran perfectly... So I decided to go for a drive to Tesco whereby the car decided to go for about 5 miles and then break again, with exactly the same symptoms and I just about rolled to the top of a hill and after 30 minutes of turning the key and fiddling under the bonnet called the recovery again. After putting the phone down needless to say I turned the key and it started perfectly allowing me to limp home and cancel the breakdown assistance but unfortunately having used up my allowance for the year! I obviously don't want to drive the car until I am sure its fixed - so would like some advice trouble shooting... It is a 2.0 16v ABF engine, with full electronic injection - New coil, HT leads, Dizzy and Rotor arm, Spark plugs, Battery, Starter, Air Filter and Oil. What could cause this issue, I wondered if it may be only when the car is warm that it fails? Also it seemed to fail both times when under load going up a hill. Crank Sensor/ Air Temp/ Throttle Body/ Oil Temp Sensor/ Water Sensor? I have no idea where to start - I believe I have the cars OBDII wired up but don't have vagcom so if anyone in the RH20 area would help trouble shoot it would be appreciated! Any old school trouble shooting advice would also be appreciated a lot! Thanks for reading that - hopefully someone knows whats going on!

got one, cant get at it for a few weeks though! let me know if you have no luck

I just went for it tbh, i'm quite slow but very methodical! The main problems I had were because mine had a chopped loom, so I guess you might find it easier!

I've put one in mine, if you get stuck give me a PM, i found it quite hard to get information!

Alright Ol!

That white Corrado always used to shop at Tesco in Meir Park, didn't realise there were so many Corrado's in Stoke! Were you picking up parts from Derby the other week Jase?

Sounds like a real nightmare, I changed the coil on mine as the final thing before it sparked into life, I think you could be looking at a lack of spark and around the dizzy, if your engine is a KR im sure mine didn't have an ISV but my ABF does, if you can take a few photos of your engine bay I might be able to help you, If you can hear your fuel pump priming then i'm sure it is electrical and i'm sure its related to the timing of the spark, do you know that the dizzy can be adjusted for spark timing by loosening the bolts and then turning one way or the other, again make sure inside the dizzy has good electrical contacts. Try adjusting a bit and then cranking again, there is no point burning out the starter though so give it a little try and then try something else. If you are adjusting the dizzy be careful because occasionally you can get shocked, if your extra precautious you can loosen the battery clamp on 1 side, and disconnect as you adjust it. Try that and get back to me!

That is really unfortunate, I don't know what else to suggest, When you turn the key to the last turn before ignition do you hear the fuel pump buzzing and all the electrics come too life? What happens when you turn the key? try to describe it exactly!

The door is one mould, you get the mech out through the top, if you need advice in swapping it over give me a pm

Its attached below the A pillar, its like a claw lol, got lots of earths going to it, like a central earth point for the door switchs and interior light but without getting wiring diagrams or my dash back out I cant remember what would cause the problem you mention! Edit: Have a look on club gti forum for the relevant electrical diagram, will help you loads you don't have to be an expert to make some sense of it!

Everyone always says its to much hassle to put an engine into a car that you can just buy anyway. I'm tempted to agree! Not worth the time and expenditure :)

Check the earth claw on the drivers side underneath the dash, make sure all the earths have a good connection, then there is the earth by the heater motor but I don't think its that, worth checking the engine bay earths aswell, so battery clamp to chassis etc... I couldn't tell you for definate what the problem is though, thats the annoying thing about electrics!

Well the mounts do hold it in place but most of what connects the engine at the front is them long bolts that go through the starter, gearbox and into the front mounting bracket. Where are you putting the axle stands on the car? the sump is the curved bottom of the main engine block and it contains all of the oil. Its good to do things yourself but always reading up on things before starting is a must as there is always someone before you who has had the same problem :)

As if its not already on axle stands?! You should always work on axle stands and then you can feel safer being underneath and have a better look, its better if you have it in the air I can't imagine it being done well without axle stands, do a proper job and it saves time I have found than when you try and quickly do things, there is a sweet spot on the engine when you position the jack underneath it will go towards the aligning, have you not supported the engine? you do realise that there is practically no support after removing the starter motor bolts? thats why your front has sagged out of alignment! Its not what I wanted to do but when doing so much work on my car i decided i needed to spend out on a decent jack! it helps loads :)

Hiya, very common problem it happened to me both times when I got the starter motor out, you can either jack the engine till it aligns(spreading the load with wood), or have used a engine/gearbox brace in the first place, make sure you are paying close attention to the holes and are not overjacking it, the mounts are mostly designed for downwards weight and I always feel dodgy overloading them upwards.

The main problem was the immobiliser that was bodged in, I took that out but the wiring was beyond repair, can't be of more help than that sorry!

Got mine off eBay! £280 and I love them, never seen another set like them... Also came with white leather doorcards, but these need a refurb and are the early type! I had been looking out for a set for months so you just have to be patient...

67 is the fuel pump relay! I'm sure I had this problem but I don't know how I sorted it because i ended up replacing the whole loom sorry :/