alank950

He can only repair it again.You would not be able to just buy a cable,you will have to replace the whole regulator unit again.

I got it repaired here in N Ireland..if you would like the contact details for the chap who repaired it let me know..

Job finished.Removed the regulator unit,tricky but patience paid off.Had it repaired here and refitted it greased to the teeth!!.Regreased the other side also.

I just got the cable mended on the original part.

The unit has been removed ,with some patience!.

Although now when i think about it ,it cannot be the cable holding the window up as the cable is broken.

Aparrently i have to remove the mechanism and bring it to the guy for the cable fix.. Ok The glass is only falling down a few inches therefore i cannot unbolt the mech arms from it,any ideas why?.is there more cable up in there holding the door or do i unbolt it with my hand ,blind by reaching up inside the panel.I need to seperate the glass from the mech first i guess,then tape the glass up and then drill the rivets holding the mech to remove it..any info on this? ---------- Post added at 9:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:42 PM ---------- Getting the glass separated from the mechanism is proving impossible.I cannot reach the two bolts as the glass will not lower far enough so i can get at them.This could be the remaining wire attached to the motor thats holding the glass up or the guide arms.Wondering now if i were to remove the rivets from the motor/mech and drop the whole thing window and all then remove the bolts holding the glass. ---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:25 PM ---------- Stone this is my problem.getting at the two bolts..I have a feeling that the window is being held 3/4 way up by the upper part of the broken cable.I have tried the motor switch and the motor is just clicking and wont move the cable either.As i said i may need to drill the rivets and drop the whole unit (motor+mech) window and all to reach the 2 bolts.if you read this and have any advice please post.cheers

Thanks for this feedback great post. I have contacted a chap on the GTI forum over here who says he can mend this cable for me.thanks

The window on my VR6 has stopped working and i removed the door card.Upon inspection i noticed there is a steel cable broken due to rust,i assume this is the window mechanism cable.The window motor is still clicking ok inside the door ,so its ok.I feel that this cable will not be easy to replace as its way up inside the door and difficult to get at.Any info on a replacement and fitting would be welcomed.thanks ps..i think the cable is know as the Window Regulator cable

Rang Stealth and they will fix the issue if i send them of the ecu unit..

Ok i will give stealth racing a ring .thanks Seemingly there is a code to access this within the cars data system as i have heard it can be done.My mechanic was using a Launch X431 to run the scan.

Guys ,OK!.Seems that the immobiliser has failed and to get access to the data to override the immobiliser or ecu requires a password..I have a mechanic friend who has run a scan to find out for me what the problem was.He just contacted me and asked me to try and find out how to source this password to get access into the cars data.Any ideas on a way around this or to find this password?..waiting on a call from the dealership as the mechanics were busy when i called today.I think even if i were to replace the ecu with another it still requires the password to reprogramme although i think the original ecu can be reprogrammed to operate with the immobiliser removed.still requires a password though within the car,nothing to do with the software.

Thanks,all these suggestions help...will post next week what i find..

Yea ,process of elimination is what it takes,and also one can learn alot that way.i will post what i find out when i have any ideas what it may be.

Why do you think it only read the codes once,meby as as it was not the registered version?.. Am i right in saying that the connector should be under the cover at the bottom of the gear stick...thats where i seen the 16pin connector on the 1.8 16v i owned

I still am having trouble understanding which cables i need .Reading posts i gather i do need the VAG-COM OBD2 OBDII 409.1 KKL USB AUDI VW cable.I cannot figure out if i need the OBD2 VAG COM Adapter Connector Cable Audi VW 2x2..car is a vr6 late 95 model...any feedback on this would be welcomed..i cannot get access to the car untill next week,thats why i am posting the questions..plus i am off work and i havnt anything better to do...lol Got the VCDS lite downloaded and from what i read there can be issues with getting it running on the computer regarding com ports..i hope it is straight forward enough when i go to set it up..I assume i can run scans with the lite VCDS even though its not a registered version?. ---------- Post added at 2:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:12 PM ---------- Gaz,,i already posted the last comment before i read your post..thanks

I see now!,one is an adapter and one is the interface cable..there seems to be alot of issues regarding the canbus type for proper fitting..my car is late 95 so i assume it will have OBDII 409.1 KKL ..should this socket be under the gear stick?..thats where is was on a 1.8 16v i had before.Looking at the two cables i see one has a usb and 16 pin connector ,the other has 16 pin socket with 2x2 connector..i am puzzled as to what connectors i use to plug into the car?

I will give that a go ,thanks... ---------- Post added at 1:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 PM ---------- I dont think the symptoms are the same though..mine just starts and stops again in 1 second and thats it.Thats all it did also the past few times it did this,although it did start again ok before when i re started.,this time it wont.

SO I WILL NEED BOTH THESE CONNECTORS?. VAG-COM OBD2 OBDII 409.1 KKL USB OBD2 VAG COM Adapter Connector Cable ---------- Post added at 10:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:46 AM ----------

Meta M36T2

Thanks man i will give this a try ..

I am not shure what type of immoboliser it is,although i do remember it says on the key as i was looking a second key last year and contacted the makers..Its a push in key that is inserted into the dash ,i was going to have this removed incase a problem like this happened. ---------- Post added at 8:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:15 PM ---------- Anyone know where i can download vag com for win 7... ---------- Post added at 9:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:16 PM ---------- I CUT AND PASTE THIS FROM ANOTHER THREAD...ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THIS IS ABOUT?...see below The blocked immobiliser is sorted by spraying a little WD40 on the brown 3 pin connector (shiny black cable) that plugs into the immobiliser box located inside the dash behind the headlight switch. The other box is the spoiler control.

Anyone know where i can download vag com for win 7,,or is this possible as it is an older format ..Also what is the proper interface cable for a 1995 VR6?...thanks

No it has been running ok ,not stalling or running lumpy,,,the car is a good runner and this is the first issue i have had with it since i got it a few years ago..The car is starting ok for a second then it just dies as if the ignition has been turned off.I noticed it doing this more than a few times over the past year but then it has always started again ok at a second attempt except for now. ---------- Post added at 7:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:27 PM ---------- Just read on a thred here that it may be the immoboliser ,any body know how i can go about checking this.

Hi Guys,,my VR6 is giving me bother starting.It fires ok and the rev needle lifts, then it just dies as if the key has been turned off again.I noticed it doing this on a very odd occasion over the past months although this time it wont start altol.I was told it may be the ECU unit or the factory immoboliser or coil in the steering colum..I was told to turn the key on and put my hand on the ECU and feel for vibration ,thats a sign its either ok or needs replaced..its a late 1995 model ,any ideas or help with this would be great..thanks ps..i cannot get access to the car untill next Monday to test the ECU as its at my place of work as wee are closed for the holiday period..just trying to narrow down what the problem could be untill then.