pet73r
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Everything posted by pet73r
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Just been looking at possible oil coolers to fit onto the G60, seen lots of people have gone with mocal ones, also MK1 golf gti ones and audi 80 ones etc. All are obviously tried and tested. I had a look at my mates T5 van earlier and noticed a very slim and long oil cooler mounted to the top of the radiator. This one infact.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volkswagen-Transp ... _947wt_907 Does anyone know much about oil coolers? Will this be up to the job of cooling the oil sufficiently for road use?? My car is chipped and has a 68mm pulley. Just wondering as this looks like it would be easy to fit being very slimline in design and look very OEM too. Maybe could be mounted in the bumper itself at the bottom behind the bumper grille? Whatca reckon??
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Right, just spent the last hour searching for answers on this subject but no one seems to have given a definite YES or NO!! Do mk4 golf steering wheels fit a corrado? Or do lupo steering wheels fit? When I mean fit, I mean, straight on with the same spline sizes and horn system?? Thanks!
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thanks guys! Dont think you could of explained it any clearer!! :clap: :clap: :clap:
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What are other people running?? This is my set up ...... Boost return Blanking plate. With a sawn off standard boost return pipe using a small cotton filter at the end. Sorry about the dark photos! Gets dark too early these days!! :( Ive used this system so I can retain the oil breather and isv pipe connections. My mate did it for me last night, went up his house for a door handle surround, he ended up doing this because he wanted to make 'the G whistle' haha. Cheers ravs :clap: Anyway, I havnt really noticed it being any louder a 'whoosh' than before, maybe its slightly louder but not that noticeable! Is there a reason for this? Is the standard boost pipe Im using acting like a silencer? Would I have more of a sound if I didn't use it and had no pipe? I have boost coming from this pipe even from idle... is that right? Just wondered if anyone else fancied posting some pictures and a little description of it and why they chose it of what they are running in regards to 'boost return deletion' Look forward to some replies!!
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:help: What does this system do? What are the pros/cons of deleting it? When on idle, should there be any boost coming from the return?
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right... wont be counting my chickens just yet but, I changed the fuel filter and thermostat changed today and all seems to be in order now! The engine was taking an age to warm up, my 11 mile trip to work wouldnt even get her to operating temperature!! So I changed the thermostat today, this has solved that problem and also seems to have solved the problem of the fast and high idle. Perhaps now the water temp is warming quicker the idle has adjusted itself accordingly?? I would of thought that even with the thermostat buggered that when it finally did reach operating temp (which the engine did after a good while) that it would idle properly anyway, but hey what do i know!! :cuckoo: Glad I got that fuel filter off too, looked like it hadnt been changed ever!! Perhaps this could also of had a positive effect on the idle problem :confused4: Ill keep you posted if this has proved to work long term....
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Thanks for that, will try and get one of those today. And try and rule that out. Ok, seems that its not the isv, tried one that was known to be working yesterday and it was still the same. A mate suggested that it could be the idle switch?? Thought id ruled that out too, but he mentioned that when idling if you lift the throttle a bit and press the button the revs should hunt up and down?? Is this correct? When i tried this, nothing happened. So could be the idle switch?? Anyone know if these are available new to buy as separate parts?
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Checked the idle switch on the TBH and changed the blue temp sensor too and still have this annoying problem! Only does it sometimes. Most of the time it sits at 1250- 1500 rpm regardless of temperature. With some throttle sometimes it will climb to 2000rpm. Then as if nothings wrong if you turn it off and back on it comes back down to 900rpm. Its doing my sweede in. I will check the idle screw next.... how is this done? Is there supposed to be some sealant used when reinstalling? I tried an old 8v gti isv i had lying around earlier and that made it even worse so i changed back to my one. Im going to try one later which i know was working so will see how that goes... thanks everyone for your input!
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no, dont worry, i did when the engine was off! Its strange. It will idle at about 1250 - 1500 rpm when warm. If i turn the engine off and back on it will drop slightly but not come down to normal. But then sometimes it does come back to normal about 850 rpm. With the isv not connected it is always at 850 rpm when warm. I am correctly diagnosing the problem to be the isv? Like I said, it buzzez when the ignition is on and makes a clicking noise.
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Hi guys, I know there has been loads of posts on this subject and i have been through them all and found them to be very helpful. I think ive now found the problem... my isv. Ive cleaned it out but it wasnt that dirty really, put it back on and it seems to have made no difference. The isv is buzzing when the ignition is turned on but it also makes this clicking noise. Which can be felt as well as heard. Is this right? Or is it shagged? When i dissconnect it the idle is fine when warm, but lumpy when cold. As it idles fine when warm without the isv plugged in does that mean its a faulty isv? Ive checked all other possibilites, vacuum leaks, idle switch etc but found them all to be in order. Im stumped!! Any one shed somelight on my problem?? Thanks!!
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Im thinking of buying FK ak street coilovers (mega budget at the mo) but my mate just took two fk highsports which were blown off his car. The ride on them was quite comfortable so was wandering if it was possible to use the springs from the highsports and put them on the streets?? Would this make the ride better?
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Hi, just replaced my rado' with a new exhaust from prospeed .Super it is too! Cheers charlie [:y:]. I still have a blow though [:^(] Sounds to me like its coming from the manifold to downpipe connection, the gasket inbetwen maybe? Anyone else had this problem? Is this a DIY job? Any special tools required? Im assuming its this, I can hear a blow from just behind the dash (sounds like to me) when in the car, outside, cant hear over the roar of induction from the charger (g6o). Tried to get my hand around the join and fee for any leaks but just kept buring my hand! Any ideas? Thanks Guys
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Hi all, Ive just removed my JabbaSport JR induction kit from my g60 and put the standard air box back on. I did this to try and reduce noise, which it has substantially but now the car idles at 1500 - 2000 rpm!! Why is this? has it been remapped to use the induction kit or something? Is it adjustable with an idle screw? I was under the impression the ecu would adjust itself to suit? Also, ive just had a whole new exhaust put on, no blows anywhere, but for some reason, i can still hear one. I think its coming from the manifold but my mate tells me its just what g60's sound like! Im not convinced!! Are the chargers supposed to 'roar'? Im convinced its the exhaust as it sounds just like leaking gasses to me. What are the manifolds like? are they prone to leaking from the spring bit half way down them? (sorry cant thin of the correct name) Any info would be great. Thanks guys.
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Super news! Will tell Charlie at prospeed exhausts to leave out the cat and go from the downpipe back! While I'm here, anyone heard of or used prospeed before? I've only read and heard great things but if anyone has any opinions? I'd be interested to hear them! Thanks!
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Hi there, im about to have a new custom exhaust put on this Saturday, I would like to remove the CAT from the car completely. Will i still pass the MOT emmisions test without the CAT? The car is a 'H' 1991 registered on 31 April 1991. I also have a golf gti 8v which is the same age on a 'H' plate but a late 1990. I understand this has to follow the same emmisions test as my corrado, less than 3.5% C02 gasses and less than 1200 ppm HydroCarbons. This car does NOT have a CAT on it and passes fine with no problems! Will my raddo be ok without one?? Thanks Guys
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Anyone?? Please?
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Hi there, quite new to corrado g60's. Just bought one infact. A 1991 'H' registered one. Been reading a bit of info on the net and came accross info on how to do a boost reading using the MFA, so thats what i did. The car has had a jabba stage 4 rebuild with 68mm pulley. Around 25k / 6 years ago. Heres the readings..... 1) 1792 2) 1990 3) Fluctuating between 949 - 990 (shouldnt this be lower?? at idle?) 4) 3.0 5) 2020 6) 84 7) 12 Basically, can anyone make sense of these readings and explain to me what they mean? And tell me if everything is in order with these readings? Ive read that the fluctuating reading should be lower (around 550 - 750)? But is that meant to be for standard? Thanks guys!!