dghodges

Thought I'd have a productive hour while the kids were having their nap... Tried to wire the heated seat loom into the fusebox. After dropping the fusebox down I can't get the car to start. It will crank but won't fire...Should have left well alone I think! I have checked the fuel pump relay, which is not closing. I have bypassed the relay and can hear the pump working but still car won't start. I have then checked the ecu relay, it comes on when the key is in the 1st position but goes off when the key is turned to position 2. This doesn't seem right to me. Should the ecu relay remain on? Is it only the ignition switch that turns the ecu relay on and off? Should you see the tacho move when cranking the engine? I wasn't, but that could be to do with the ecu not getting power. Any advice most welcome. Cheers, Dave P.S. Its a K-reg VR

Sold, thanks

That'll do, I'll PM you details. Cheers.

Open to offers! Impending house move, need to get rid of as much unwanted stuff as possible.

I'll take them please mate. PM me your payment details please. I'm down for the current group buy but its taking too long...mine are well overdue a change

Yeah £40 for all 4. Tuesday will be great as have got the day off. Cash on collection will be fine. Cheers.

Hi, For sale is a clutch that i bought for my 2l 16V back in 2007 but never used. This may well fit others, I have attached pictures of the parts and of the labels for you to o your research. The clutch is a LuK rep set. Has been kept in the garage so the pressure plate is showing some small specks of surface rust, which i am sure will come straight off with a quick rub with some emery cloth or similar. The friction plate and release bearing are spotless and as you expect if you were to buy one today. I am looking for £40 ono posted Cheers, Dave

SOLD. Hi, I have 4 standard speedlines off my vr that are clogging up my garage. Moving house soon so want to get rid of as much stuff as possible. I am looking for £40 for all 4. Unfortunately it is collection only as too busy at the moment to sort out couriers etc. Wanted to offer them on here as seems a shame to weigh them in, which is what will happen if no one wants them. As you can see they all need refurbing to make them look smart again. They are all straight will no bent rims or buckles and all have good center caps. 2 tyres are ok, other 2 are not! Thanks for looking. These will be available until next weekend otherwise they're scrap. Cheers, Dave P.S. based in Newent, Gloucestershire (GL18 1PW)

Spot on mate, thought the front wishbone bolt held the subframe to the chassis...my bad. So forget what I said about removing the wishbones from the subframe and remove subframe, wishbones and arb as one complete unit, as correctly described by daleyboy...

If you've got plenty if time and a spare vehicle. like it sounds like you have then you should be fine. To remove the subframe you need to remove the wishbone bolts. On 2 of the corrados I've owned and changed the wishbone bushes, the passenger side front wishbone bolt has snapped, hence the subframe has to be removed to sort. Don't want to sound like "teaching grandma to suck eggs" but always try to tighten these bolts slightly to break the corrosion before undoing. With the engine supported, remove the wishbone bolts, then undo the 4 steering rack to subframe fixings. Support each side of the subframe on axle stands or similar. Undo the gearbox mount and rear engine mount centre bolts. Finally undo the 4 bolts either side of the ARB bush bolts (2 each side). The subframe should then drop down. If that doesn't give you enough access you will have to remove the subframe completely by releasing the wishbones at the ball joint end, either with the 3 ball joint fixings or pop the hub off the ball joint. If you disconnect the 3 ball joint fixings it would be wise to get the camber etc checked. Obviously if you haven't already done the wishbone bushes this would be an ideal time. The advice above about using mole grips or similar to hold the bracket around the new ARB bushes while getting the bolts in is spot on as they are a real pain, especially with new bushes. Hope it goes well!

Come on folks my engine is about to jump out through the bonnet! ;) There must still be loads of you who want to upgrade your engine mounts. This way you can do it for silly money. Two poly-mounts for less than the price of a single vw front mount and less than half the price of any other single polyurethane option I've ever seen. This even includes new fixings. Thought people would be jumping at these.

If your interested in poly engine mounts at a silly price then check out... http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?64857-NEW-Group-Buy-VR6-Polyurethane-engine-mounts-just-£64-a-set

Going to try and go to this. Didn't even know this existed and only live 20 mins away. Not going to be able to bring the vr unfortunately as the missus is expecting on Tuesday and might have to dash off lol. Hope to see you there and put some faces to names!

Jay, Have you got any sets left please? Cheers, Dave

I'll take them if you don't want them and Volksworld13 doesn't want them? Cheers

Nice one, thanks

What LEDs did you use. Any extra detail would be good considering there are so many available? cheers

I know it could easily be classed as a little sad, but sat here with the girl friend watching the above program. The dad of the sextuplets, Andy Lamb has quite a nice corrado, been shown quite a few times throughout! Just thought I'd mention it lol

Well no signs of any leaks today. I'm going to leave it until the weekend before I get too excited. I'm thinking that I will flush the coolant system to get any unused k-seal out and to put new G12+ in as it is mostly water at the mo. I'm not entirely sure how this k-seal works but I'm assuming that once the leak is fixed it should remain so, even if I flush the system. If anyone knows it would be good to hear. cheers

Well found a leak, top right of the radiator. It could have been this right from the start and not the flange, although the old flange was cracked due to a rusty bolt and was very brittle, obviously seeing better days. I still couldn't see the leak under normal circumstances. After unplugging the fan and letting the coolant get up to around 105C I could see the leak. Another added benefit of this is I now know the fan works at at least one faster speed, as when plugged back in there was some serious air being moved :) I don't really want to buy a new rad so I have tried a £10 bottle of K-seal (first time I've used any sort of additive so a little sceptical). I should find out tomorrow if it has worked or not. Fingers crossed!

I'll keep my eyes open. Girlfriend goes there a lot but I've not been in yet. I'll have to go shopping with her and have a look lol. cheers

Got a new aux pump today, ended up going for a cr@ppy GSF one (still £94 quid). Only took half an hour to remove and fit so won't be too much of a hassle to take it back if i have any problems. Having now seen the design of the pump I don't think it has any bearing on my current coolant leak. Tomorrow I will be unplugging the fan to see if the extra heat will pressurize the system enough for me to see where it is leaking. Really want to get to the bottom of this as I think its getting worse. I'm not sure now that it is leaking from the flange that I replaced. Its still pooling on the slam panel but that could be from the radiator. Oh well, I'll keep searching :)

That would have been me Swompy. Where abouts do you work? I didn't spray you with oil and water did I? bloody leaks!

Right, had another nose around quickly this morning and realised the auxiliary water pump is working intermittently. It has always been very noisy, well at least in the 2 years i've had it it has been. Presumably this could be stopping the coolant flowing as freely and pressurizing certain sections of the system. toledo Yep it was a brand spanking new VW flange and o-ring. Dude VR6 I've had a look quite a few times for actual leaking, even about 20 seconds after seeing steam from the front of the bonnet and the engine still running, but can't see anything, just puddles on the slam panel etc from when its been leaking when i've been driving :-s

Looking for a bit of advice please folks. I've got a coolant leak on my '93 VR. Its from the flange on the top right of the radiator (if standing in front of car looking at it). It appears to be where the flange meets the radiator. I say appears to be as I can never see it leaking, only the evidence after a spirited drive (water on the slam panel and down the side of the passenger wing). I have changed the plastic flange as the old one had a split next to the front bolt and had gone quite brittle. I have also changed the O-ring with the correct VW part. I have made sure that the plastic part of the radiator it pushes into was in good condition with no scoring or damage, all seems in good condition BUT IS STILL LEAKING! I've even tried a slightly thicker o-ring to provide an even tighter seal and it still leaks. I'm really looking to see what approach others would take now. Could my system be over pressurising? What would cause this? Coolant and oil temps seem normal, 85 C and approx 100 C respectively. I am going to swap the expansion cap for one off my valver and see if this helps. Should the cap have to release pressure normally or would it point to there being another problem? Any help/advice gratefully received. Dave