Redfox

Today I finished four afternoons of polishing the flash red all over outside with Festool polishing stuff in grain 8000, then in grain 11000, all by hand. Then waxed the whole car in Turtle Platinum Liquid Wax, which is very easy to work with and gives a nice surface. Changed some bolts and nuts for stainless as I cleaned up all the plus and earth points I could find. Installed a new 61 Ah Varta Silver battery, which is supposed to be the correct size. Finally modified a new leather geargaitor from JF Boots, glued it on, and voila, a nice new fresh look to the interrior, with no cracked plactic like the standard item. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49031[/ATTACH] And one og the finished article (will post one fitted tomorrow): [ATTACH=CONFIG]49032[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox.

Put on a new geargaitor in black leather. Fits very nicely. Polished the Corrado with Festool grain 8000 and the grain 11000 and then waxed the whole car. Took four afternoons. Came up okay. Cheers, Redfox.

Congrats, that's a very nice and seriously low car. Very nice indeed ;) When I installed my coilovers, I couldn't get the jacks out, and had to raise the suspension, next was when I reversed the car out from the drive in to the road, I headr some clanging, so raised it again, and next was the stupid speedbumps, so back to the block and raise it a little mor. Then it was fine. Tou must have seriousle track-like roads around you. I would like taht too in Denmark, where I live. Cheers, Redfox.

Hi, and thanks for the answer. I have measured the battery again and now it dropped down to 12.45 volt. So I guess it had it. I cleaned up all the positive and earth points to be really clean, and put on a new battery, this time 61 Ah as VW says it have to be. I started the car, and I measure 13,95 Volt across the battery. 12,8 when stopped. From Battery negative to generator cover is 0,02-0,03 Volt. If I measure from battery negative to the bloe wire on the altenator is shows 13,95 Volt. At no time (also yesterday) could I see the alternator lams light up, which it should I guess, if the alternator was faulty. I'll report back as I find something (or not). Will do the earth direct wire asap. Cheers, Redfox.

Hi RW1, Thanks for the answer. I just came home, read it, and hurried out and started the car. Before starting I measured 12,65 Volt between + and - on battery. Upon starting, when the idleing is around 1000 rpm's, I measure 14,3 Volt same place. After warming up, idle drops to 750 rpm's and charging is now 13,95 Volt between poles on battery. Anyway, I also measured what you told, and between - on battery and - on the generator is 0,03 - 0,05 Volt, but it seems to fluctuate quite much, holding the testpins steady, I suddenly reads Voltage rising to 14 Volt and dropping again. Does this mean anything? I tried both my digital meters, and they show the same, and have fresh 9Volt batteries. Q: Does this mean that the battery, a wire or the generator is faulty? Cheers, Redfox.

HI all, Having owned my Corrado G60 for a month, I came home from a drive tonight, and I turned off the engine while opening the garage. When I wanted to start again, it just wouldn't turn the starter, I waited a little, and this time I could hear the starter spin a little slowly. Anyway, open the hood, put a voltmeter on the battery, 9,6 Volt, and after a break - 12,05 Volt, which is of course too little Battery is a Bosch Silver 45 Ah (came on the car), generator seems to be the 65 Ah model (ring like holes in the end type). I pushed the car in, put a charger on it - wouldn't charge, so I thought okay, dead battery. After a few minutes, I tried again, and this time my c-tek would start up and charge. After two hours, I wnet out in the garage to have a look, and took the charger off. After having just been charging, the battery shows a high, but slowly falling Voltage, as normal. Started the car first time, and this tiem the measuring of charging volt from the generator was 14,04 Volt. Is this normal? And upon stopping the engine, Voltage showed 12,63 Volt but slowly dropping. So continue to charge the rest of the night until early morning tomorrow. What should be the ideal Voltage on a working battery? 12,7? I cannot measure the cranking Ah and see if the battery have collapsed to some extent, as this is not possible. Can I asume that when started the 14,04 Volt means the generator is okay, as I son't want to replace it, if it is okay? How long time after a charge, should a battery rest, before having dropped to actual Voltage? Can I also amuse, that no wires are bloken or defect, like bad earth for example, as the Generators output seems to be 14,04 Volt, and all electrics work as normal? Other good suggestions? Cheers, Redfox ;)

Good to hear about some well trained children ;) Cheers, Redfox ;)

Very relevant thread. I think we more or less all know exactly that. Nobody else gives a da.. I also have an old italian Laverda motorcycle, and it really have a life of it's own. I always take good care of it, tap it along the fur so to say, and it never breaks down. But someone stupid comes along, passes by or whatever, and comment on it like, howcom you clean it so much, it's just some old scrap, or: why don't you ride it for work? (3 miles) Of course not, as I cannot even warm up the oil on such a short trip, it's a coldstart, there's too much wind, the weatherforecast said there's 1 percent chance of getting rainy today etc. They just shake their heads and almost accidently drops their old rusty bicycle, football or whatever next to my Corrado or Laverda. Geeeeessss!!! GGGRrrrrrrr!!! They don't understand that someone is willing to pay more money for a set of 12 year old BBS's that they can get 3 sets of new mega sized wheels for at a crapstore. It's fu..... mine, I paid for it, I don't own money to the bank, I invest thousands of hours getting it perfect while you have "quality-time" on the sofa with a pizza and a sixpac. Them: Then theu go on about how long time can it take to polish it? Or: didn't you also polish it last evening? Me: Yes I did, because it took me 6½ hours to polish the hood and both front wings. Them: Shake their head in lack of understanding while getting into their 1 year old suzuki Splat, which is full of garbage, rusty and totally scratched. I know that feeling of someone less carefull getting in and out of my car, slamming the seat, stepping the plastic fasteners off the carpet, and worst of all: the slam the door hard! I then sream what on Earth they are doing? they answer that on their own car it have to be slammed hard. Well, maybe you should spend the weekend on the car maintaining it, instead of eating until your belly prevents you from getting into a Corrado! Then I leave ;) Also why I (very seldom) use the car for a practical purpose like driving to a furnitureshop to have a look at something, ALWAYS park most far away from the entrance. Each to his own ;) but good old stuff needs careful handeling for sure. Pat: that is a 100 percent perfectly okay and totally accepted picture you have there: Go on punk, make my day! Cheers, Redfox.

If it's a round crome VW thing, I've got it already, I was more into the Corrado thing? Cheers, Redfox.

I agree, and fleabay seems to make it even more expensive to get some, so I try to stay clear of that. Cheers, Redfox.

If so, please give me a shout in OM. Cheers, Redfox. (needing a full black leatherRecaro cabin and lot's more... ;)

Me too. Too bad. Cheers, Redfox.

HI all, Can we have a picture of that keyring to see what it looks like? Cheers, Redfox ;)

HI Rob, Would that be normal sprotsseats or Recaro's with the bigger support, and early door cards? Cheers, Redfox.

Small update: I looked at the front seats and the plastic surround of the tilt lever is broken on both seats, so off to VW to order new, and this is just to mention, that they have come up with a newer smarter model, that supports better. See picture. The old is to the left, the newer deeper model is on the right. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48955[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox.

Hi Yan, Yes, I heard that the rear beam should just have fresh original bushings, but for almost 12 years I drove my Mk. II golf, with Powerflex all over except rear beam, and it worked perfect. Sure the standard have yo be tossed away ;) ps: I really dislike any way of comfort. Anyway, putting on a set of wide wheels I guess will have the same wearing effect on the whole suspension, and we can't all drive on narrow steelrims, even theough the state would like to see us all on 15/90-13-H. Cheers, Redfox.

that's some nice 944 wheels! Look forward to see the result and the rollcage in as well. Cheers, Redfox.

I used brakecleaner plus a soft natural hair washingup brush. Then mild motorcycle cleaner (does not attack anything, then Turtle car wash, then Turtle Red bottle paint cleaner, then Turtle premium (dark green bottle) car wax. Came up nice. Wear gloves at any time unless you want funy kids. When I spray with water, I use a garden pressure bottle (pumped by hand - hte one for gardening or toxics), and spray very lightly and softly, no pressure cleaner ever, thanks. Cheers, Redfox.

H all, Never had spacers on my cars, and now that I have a Corrado, and just fitted a set of BBS RC 323 in size 7.5" by 17", ET35, on a set of KW coilovers inox-line v1, and the wheels don't scrape anything, I would like to know, if I can put spacers on, and still get no scraping, neither on the inside, nor the outside? Maybe 10mm or more? Note: I don't want scraping or rolled arches. Secondly, I would like to ænow, if the widened stance does anything in real life, apart from the looks? Do I actually get better grip in corners because of a greater dinstance from centerline of the car? Or do I make it worse by changing the geometry between wheels, track arms and mounting points? Thirdly: Does a widened car spin more easily around it's own axis? (width being greater than designed relative to length)??? I am looking for the best possible driving abilities, not looks, even though it would certainly come in handy and make the Corrado look much better. But as said, driving capabilities is the only important thing. Note: I already have installed an extra set of Eibach antiroll bars, on poly bushes, and Eibach strut tower bars both front and rear (Wilbers). Will swap all bushes underneath for poly-ones too asap. Note also, that in my country, it is forbidden to use spacers, unless they are made and approved by the same mufacturer as the wheels, and are made for that model (who cares?) Q: what is the ideal wheel angle on a Corrado? and what is the best toe in/out on a Corrado (G60)? Anything else to make it drive as good as possible? Cheers, Redfox :afro: car wash.... car wash...:afro:

I took a very thin flatbladed screwdriver, and carefully levered it down the side along the locking ring. Then by raising the screwdriver to near vertival, I could move the locking ring a little bit out from it's grove. Then I inserted a long thin torxscrew in the end of the locking ring closest to the screwdriver, wearing gloves too because else the screw is a pain to hold, levered the locking ring a little upwards, turned the screw a little to get better hold of the locking ring, and voila, the ring came out. It took a few tries, before I succeeded, but eventually all four came off. The reason why it can e a little hard is, that the grove on BBS RC's is very narrow, and does not leave much room for fiddleing. New fittings from BBS was inserted, greencoloured aluminium rings, and new locking rings as weel, and all was good. Cheers, Redfox.

Hi all, I would like to know more too, as I just got a fly bu stone making two or even three small scratches in my new rims, GGGRRRRR!!!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]48886[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox.

Update: Hi all, I have now taken off the motor for the sunroof, and adjusted everything according to Bentley manual. Still the same problem, and as the left side lever does not catch propperly with the claw, it also disengages prematurely, therefore the sunroof raises up before it's free of the roof, and make scratches. I guess I need some spares, even though I cannot see anything broken. Now there's light in the glve compartment, just a bulb, real easy and cheap fix. I cleaned up the gearbox, and installed a propper cover for the wipermotor from a Passat. Fits perfectly, and cleans up the scuttle area. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48884[/ATTACH] Disaster have struck: A stone jumped up from the passing var, and hit one of my "new" old BBS RC323 rims, making a small mark at the outer edge. Though timy but not liking that and seeing it as a broken surface, I would like to ask how to repair that propperly? The rims are BBS C323 ball polished. Can that be repaired? and does it have to go to BBS in Germany? [ATTACH=CONFIG]48885[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox.

Update: The plastic and rubber trim on the roof were perished, so I got a new set from VW. Very easy to install and certainly looks/works different. Now the exterior is coming close to an end apart from new paint. Anyway I have an idea about a rear skirt, but will have to work something out and testfit. I'll get back to that asap. So now, I move to interrior, and here is the usual roof tilt/slide problem. My case is the following: I can tilt the roof up and down as normal. I can press the slide, and it begins to react, than stand still, with no more than that. removing the cloth inside, I can get to the four Torx 25 screws that secure the roof panel to the guides. I push the liner back into the roof, and take off the torx screws, and lift away the sunroof panel. I will illustrate the following to make it clear what is happening. Problem 1: When I press the slide function, the right side guide slides back and engages the tilted metal lever, which is tilted into a groove. Then it moves back into the roof. The left side does not do that, bacause the claw that is supposed to slide backwards and catch the lever, can only get to a point where it hits the lever, as that (the lever) is not positioned correctly. Here's a picture of that: [ATTACH=CONFIG]48826[/ATTACH] What happens is, that the left side lever, sometimes/sometimes not get's into the groove like the right hand side, but it's kind of caught into it, not centralized into that groove, and because of that, it cannot tilt propperly, therefore it have a wrong angle, and therefore the clay that is supposed to lock onto it, cannot lock. Therefore the whole mechanism comes to a halt, and the roof wont slide. So I press a little on the left side lever, and the claw can engage the lever, and the sunroof can slide into the roof. Here's a picture: (though this is right hand side) [ATTACH=CONFIG]48827[/ATTACH] Problem 2: Then, when I press slide forward, back to closed sunroof position, the right side slides nice and easy, but the left side slides a little, then the lever part stops, and the arm that holds the sunroof, begins to go upwards prematurely, therefore risking to block or scratch the sunroof on the edge of the opening towards the rear. I then let go of the button, press it again, and it all slides to a front position, and tilts. Upon pressing the button to lower the now tilted roof, it comes back to normal closed position, also the left side. Here's a picture of the let's say blocked left hand side mechanism: [ATTACH=CONFIG]48828[/ATTACH] Questions: 1: What to do to adjust the left side to follow the right side? In Bentley there's something called parrallel adjustment, but now it got dark, and anyway it's not very clearly described. 2: What to do with the non returning left side, after having slided the whole sunroof into the roof? Is there a special thing to adjust or lube, as the manual only says use original VW sunroof lube? 3: it seems as if the guiderail on the whole raissystem clamped onto the roof is too tight for the left side claw and lever to move freely. Is this normal or is there something to inspect and/or adjust and/or lube? 4: The whole thing is drived by a gear on an electric motor. But is ths motor only having one cablepull or two? By that I mean if it have two, maybe the cable on each side will have it's own attatchment, or are they each wound around the motoraxle in seperate ways (one clockwise, one counterclock wise)? 5: Or is the not too well sliding left guide/claw/lever coming to a stop because I actually took the sunroof off, and the say right hand side cable is the ONLY one pulling when closing the roof from having slided it back, and therefor because the actual sunroof plate is takes off, the left side cannot slide along as a slave? Likewise, I was thinking, that when the sunroof opens, the left side is the mastercable, and the right hand side is a slave, and only following because the roof in os? I have not taken it apart (yet), but it would be very interesting to know this and how it actually operated. Anyone? I have looked around on many forums for this subject, but not really found any answers. I apologize if I just overlooked it. Please if anyone can advice on this, I'm a happier man! Edit: I played with the little rubberpart on the rear end of each lever, and this is not the problem, as it does not make a difference in this case. Cheers, Redfox.

A little update. I finally managed to clean the underside of the hood. Thanks for the help. I couldn't get the white spirit to work though, so I tried various chemicals, and it worked with good fresh 99 octane fuel. 1½ Liter and it was clean. Some pics: Good to cover the whole area, and this plastic for covering floors when painting interrior is jsut fine, as the fuel does not dissolve it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48795[/ATTACH] Here's a good use of a VW membership card - not only for discount in Germany, but also for cleaning hoods! [ATTACH=CONFIG]48796[/ATTACH] Finally got there. A litte Turtle paintcleaner and some wax, and hey presto, it's clean. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48797[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox.

don't worry, I missed these 20 years ago! Better late than never ;) Cheers, Redfox ;)