jonnykillpop

Mines got 10 mm Red Beru's and they fit in fine but had to take the plastic lugs right off, they hav'nt got the hard plastic coat on outside like VW'S (also made by Bremi/Beru)so bit more pliable, had lugs off as used to have Magnecors but build qual. on them is ropey, not near VW or Beru slung them after bout 6 months, no way worth the money. Might be OK for a while if you fit and never take them off. I'd only use VW or Beru/Bremi (I'm told same company), miles better than anything else if was you, only reason I got the fatter ones was because had already modified the holders, look nice but sure standard work just as well.

Think it's about keeping the steering/steering rack centralised, like other bloke I read it and just adhered to it, but think it is important. Good chance the adjusters on other side will be seized or very difficult to move, having never been touched for long time, so all in all I'd leave left well alone. Sounds like your tracking, camber is bang on anyway, I had bit more camber on front and turn in amazing but eats the tyres. I'm on my 4th set of front tyres in 15 000 miles. P.S. Yoko's are best, I've had Yoko's, then Toyo's, then Continental Sport Contacts, and now Falkens. Yoko's grippiest, Conti's very close second but more expensive and not worth it, did'nt really last any longer, Falkens are useless, won't touch them again, going back to Yoko's next. (South Shields is full of fast roundabouts which accounts to some extent for tyre wear, but my Capri, which is a 3.1 motorsport engine, can make all tyres last 4 times as long, and the back wheels will spin at the drop of a hat in any gear, it's like a very quick ice skate in the wet.

Yep I took him literally, and yes I meant or. There was an R32 engined car for sale locally just shortly after I'd bought my VR6, 285 BHP, and whole car mint and fortunes spent, went to have a look and was hugely impressed, at time I had 3 mint old cars and garage space for one, so really could'nt justify buying another Corrado, especially having travelled to other side of country to buy the VR6 I'd got, which was mint. Kicked myself ever since though so always got eye open for another.

What are R32'S are 4 motions? There's a bloke above would give you an argument on the common argument, reckons there\s only 20 R32\S, which I seriously doubt as I've seen probs 8-10 for sale over past year but always been short of garage room, but might squeeze one in now. Just done quick google, AUE and BDE both 204 bhp but BDE has variable valves is it, bit revvier and more tuneable?

Cheers for replies I\ll have think bout both 24v\s and contact if fancy one. I\m not just looking for any Corrado with a R32 in it looking for an all round top notch car, and ain't in a desperate hurry. Been tempted with couple of RS4's and R32 mk4 Golf's which is only one I like but do like Corrado's. There's some cracking turbo\d ones around and will probs. handle better but think the VR engine is one of all time greats, VR6, R32 etc. and can't imagine a Corrado without one. Had god knows how many Capri's from old Broadspeed 3.1's to 400bhp 24v Cosworth's could never have stomached anything without a v6 but just does'nt feel like a Capri without one.

Yeah I've seen yours advertised mate, and yes I like it, is it the AUE or BDE engine as per the blokes advices above?

There's actually a really nice supercharged VR6 for sale at moment, other side of country, also some really mint tuned turbo'd 20v ones but don't really fancy engine wise for some reason, think I'd rather have something bit more as VW intended engine wise, plus think anything much more than 250 bhp needs 4 wheel drive or RWD to be useable

Hello, been offered a really nice Corrado that quite fancy, originally a VR6 now got a 24v 4 Motion engine with 60 000 on it, he thinks it's 188 bhp I thought they were 204. Got a really sweet VR6 but thought if a really nice R32 engined one comes up might buy another. This car has everything I fancied bar engine, lot of other upgrades and mint nick. How hards it to get say 250 bhp out of the 2.8 24v, maybe bit more, would a remap do it? is it fairly easy to stick an R32 engine in it, there's a VW specialist local that would probs do it, or should I just wait for a nice R32 to come up? I could get it probs at least a grand cheeaper than I'd expect to pay for a similar R32 engined one. I'm not in desperate hurry or anything, and would rather keep the VR6 as is and buy another than start ripping engine out of that and uprating, as the cars pretty much mint all round, and already lightly upgraded. I'll probs keep both.

Got pics on now see above before I saw your reply. It's clearly brand new looking at it so sure it'll be fine for your car, I'll PM you my details for payment and should be able to get in post same day, there's a Post office not far from home and work, I'm guessing Sussex is underwater is it? I'm from sunny Newcastle it's practically sub-tropical up here so never any weather issues. Send me your name and address details please. Cheers

I'll try and post up tonight when home, or send direct if can't, don't think I could figure out how to get a pic on this site last time tried. The lad I got it off assures me he bought from VW and he took number off VW box, I never seen a 2.0 16v one in the flesh before, it's all black, same shape as VR6 one but not aluminium casing like them, inside seems to be different in that looks like plunger system rather than the slide valve thing the VR6 one has. It's clearly unused looking inside, save 5 mins on my car and 10 mins on his. Hopefully you can tell from photo's when send but any probs. if you buy it, just send it back and I'll give you money back if it's not right. My neighbours got a Mk4 Golf GTI 2.0L 16V, (2003 I think) would this be the same? If so I can have a look at his and compare. Other neighbours got a MK1 Audi TT turbo, again can have a look at this if has same valve.

Unlikely but if turns out second ISV was dodgy I've got a new one for sale for a 2 lire 16 valve just put in parts for sale

[ATTACH=CONFIG]77306[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77304[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77301[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77302[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77300[/ATTACH]Bought this on Ebay having a punt it would fit a VR6, does physically fit but ticks over far too high so not using it. It is brand new and working, ran for 5 mins on my VR6, lad bought it off assures worked perfect on his 2 litre, ran for 20 mins in garage, and you can see it\s unmarked inside which backs him up. Can't find any VW ones on Ebay but Intermotor ones which cheapest could find are 166 quid so I'll say 65 quid and got to be a bargain for someone. Here's his Ebay description below. "Here we have an Idle control/stabilisation valve that is for a 2.0 16v corrado , I bought this as I had an idle issue with my corrado but it turned out to be something else, so this has only been used for about 1 hour while the mechanic checked things over and then took it off so is as good as new.These are listed on ebay for £180 so you will get yourself a real bargain here as bids will start at £30 and there is no reserve.This will fit a 2.0 16v corrado with the OEM number of 048 133 455 (this is what is wrote on the box) .Any questions then just ask but bear in mind I'm not a mechanic and I'm only going on what I've been told,.UK only postage on this item." (As a temp fix I put on a new Vauxhall Senator 3 litre 24v one which my mate had and works perfectly whilst was waiting for a VR6 one bought to arrive, different Bosch number and inlet slightly bigger, same size as outlet, hav'nt even bothered fitting VR6 one just kept as spare, so if can't find VR6 one try looking at Vauxhalls.)

Hello, anyone got a VR6 decat pipe they want to sell me? Message me on here or 07501 251150 if have, Cheers

I,ve got a brand new VW one for a 2.0 litre 16v Corrado, 048 133 455, don't know if fits a G60, only really know VR6's but check it out and if any good give me a shout

I need an ISV for a VR6 are they the same?

I need an ISV for a VR6 are they the same?

Yep I dug it out and adjusted it, and it did cure stalling but reckon that's cause it's either been bust in first place and adjustment compensated for it or other stuff not working properly and compensated for that. MAF was fine, got new one anyway but old one working fine, so have spare at least, new coilpack, Beru 10mm leads, cam, crank, lambda and knock sensor all improved it, Some companies selling a LOWE ISV for 35 on ebay, can they be any good at this price as other are like 200? Could I drill the adjuster screw out and fir new one if mine is OK but just can't be adjusted back as screw stripped?

Cheers, that's where mine was originslly I adjusted the gap to other side just by ear as it did run and did'nt stall like this but reckon that's because it was probs knackered anyway or as was'nt running right at time, now is after replacing knock, crank, cam sensors, coilpack etc. Either way fairly moot point as adjuster is now chewed and can't adjust back so new ISV I reckon.

Should ISV on a VR6 be totally closed when disconnected or partly open. Adjusted mine a while back, slightly open, which did need at time, was dying a bit when going back to idle but had pretty much all new sensors, coilpack MAF etc. everything running lovely now but MPG has dropped to bout 19 -22 and I'm thinking ISV probs need setting back now but can't find anything on basic setting, couple of things on G60 but even on that some are saying totally closed, some slightly open.

Cheers

What's that electircal plug on gearbox (not the reverse switch the other one.) The one right down at bottom, close to the exhaust downpipe, and what's it do?

Yep did trick working perfect now

I did that mod and basically it's still adjustable, just set it to whatever step you want for height then tigh ten the bolt down to set it there, the bolts replacing the spring lock mechanism, and therefore removing any movement in it. I'd forget about the Polo column, if yours is in good nick this will remove any movement and still gave any height you want. If you look at the after photo on the link there still be slight movement left but if you use a bolt threaded all the way, and use 3 nuts to clamp it both sides of the metal like I did there\ll be none. I also ground that dome bit of so would clamp down flat there. Hat's off to bloke who posted original idea, brilliant, simple mod.

Cheers, there's a CTS just down road just rang can get one for tomorrow for 36 quid, Lucas one I think, for that price just ordered one and I'll stick it in tomorrow, if it's not sensor still means got full set of spares of sensors, coilpack, MAF etc., which can't be bad thing, and if old one is kaput probs keep Lucas one as spare and get a new Bosch one. What's the correct torque, did I read 15 lb ft or something. Should bolt have a washer? Old one does'nt, but looks brand new, still shiny, and not sure it's the standard bolt, just looks like a stock bolt, not VW one and would have expected like one of those washer head bolts or something. Car was extensively restored/rebuilt/uprated shortly before bought it, engine, suspension, body etc. so probs used a new bolt, is bolt type important. Fits fine, and everything been very professionally done so expect is fine.

Tested this for ohms at connector plug and getting no reading across across any 3 terminals or one lead to earth and any terminal. Cars running OK but not perfect, seems slightly down on power and revs dropping a bit when going back to idle, but not stalling. Had basically every new sensor, crank, cam, temp., lambda etc., ISV fine, new VW (Beru)coilpack, new Bremi 10mm leads, MAF. Car had new engine shortly before bought it. Only things showed up on Vagcom were Cam sensor (changed),crank sensor (changed) and lambda (changed) hav'nt had on since. All improved it but still does'nt feel 100%. Knock sensor looks brand new, plug, cable and end, VW (Bosch) one 021 905 377, can't be original one looking at it, but if no ohms it's kaput, or not the way to test? Europarts do a FAE one for 43 quid at mo, will this be OK? Places on ebay list 2 alts. for same car, say check chassis number why's europarts only list 1?