seanl82

James, you're a star! It's not on any of the diagrams either. Thanks mate, really appreciate it! 👍

Yeah it's been plated. It's an M8 collared nut inside a retaining/captive clip.

Haha, legend! Have a look around the trailing edge of the rear axle if you can Martin. I'm sure it was around that area somewhere but I can't see it on any diagram. Could have been to sort a previously stripped thread maybe.... Not come across any yet though. 🤔

No I had it electroplated with a load of other fixings after I removed it

Yeah I've fitted them already thanks

Yep, same type as I had originally. May have just changed type over the years. I've put the wire ones on now as the others I had (same as yours) were what I took off and had electroplated, but you can see the pitting on them so new ones look neater.

I don't think so Martin, I haven't touched that so no reason it would be. I'm sure I took it off of the nearside rear somewhere.....

Do you mean these Cressa?

Ok I've taken off the handbrake cable retaining clip I had fitted, and the part number is stamped on it. Its the second No#16 identified below so essentially, does the same thing. Think I must have ordered them years ago thinking 'I don't have those' Sorry for the confusion and thanks everyone for the comments/help. Still need to identify the one in the first pic though!

Where do they go then? The hanger clips that go into the leading edge of the rear axle is what stops them hanging down don't they? Along with these;

Thanks mate. Yeah looks like those are identified then. Not sure why I have a different type. No idea what the other one is in the first pic though......

Someone on Facebook has shown me a pic of his G60 with them fitted to the handbrake cable, and it looks like the correct part according to ETKA, but I've got these; Hmmm, did I buy them back when without realising........ 🤔

Haha, unfortunately (for me) not!

It's the classic, I know what that is I won't forget....... Getting on a bit now, pics on ETKA & in the Bentley don't help much either.

Oops, forgot to upload it.

And another part..... Note to self, don't leave it almost 4 years after taking things off to put them back on again!

Temp gauge does take a good while to get up, especially as the 8v is pretty small so within 10 mins (closer to 5 in this weather) is normal. Just look out that it doesn't drop when underway, the raises to the 90 again when stationary. Not a huge problem, just indicates a faulty thermostat which is pretty common (I've never had a VAG car that didn't require one replacing at some point over the 15 years I've been driving). Stock height for the cars is especially high. The last year or so of manufacture even more so for some reason. Did you question the adjustable column? Reason is that a lot of people have locked them in place as the adjustment mechanism develops play over the years which is an MOT failure, so it may be able to be adjusted to suit you then locked back in place.

It's a nut that slots into a captive bracket. I'm pretty sure it's from the rear axle area somewhere, but can't remember where exactly.

Can anyone identify this, and know where it goes please!?

As above, sorry there's always one screw I forget! Yes the glass is the same throughout years. Not 100% if manual window glass is the same (I imagine it is), but there are very few with manual windows anyway.

Easy job. Remove the door card, drop the window down a bit to access the two clamps holding the glass to the mechanism, undo the two clamps bolts & lift the glass out! Door card removal will take the longest, but overall it shouldn't take longer than 15 minutes. To take the door car off, remove the visible screws front and rear, prise off the grab handle cover and remove the two large screws holding the grab handle. There is another small screw for the card behind it as well. Remove the door pin, door release surround by sliding it forward (or back, can't remember), and the top inner scraper trim. Carefully remove the door card lifting it over the pin at the back, and disconnect the window switch plug. Job done.

It's difficult doing it all on your Tod like me. Thanks for the encouragement and understanding, can always count on you mate. 😉😆

Sorry I got it wrong, 40.17 not 19. I'll go with that then, as I didn't quite get to 130nm first time round as it just seemed too tight by feel and I was afraid I'd rip the thread to pieces. Thanks Cressa. 👍

One step forward, two steps back. After dropping the subframe again to fit copper crush washers to the PAS pipes to rack, it turns out there shouldn't be any! I'm positive I removed a pair from there, but they wouldn't fit on one of the pipes. Checked the originals I was sure I took off, and sure enough they don't fit either. Checked ETKA & the Bentley and it only shows the little green O-rings. No idea where they've come from then! The pump banjo ones have been replaced and I have 3 left, so must have got confused and they came in a pack of 5! Anyway, fitted the subframe again, torqued it all back up to what I think are the correct tension (other thread), and put the engine mount bolts back in. Put the hubs on loosely and thought I was making progress ready to start making up brake lines tomorrow as all the bits arrived yesterday. Last thing left to do on that was reconnect the steering column to the rack. Noooo! It just won't go on. I'm gonna need to drop the subframe again a bit to get it on properly. Pissed off is an understatement. The flipping boot makes life twice as difficult but there's just not enough flex to get the splines in straight. I'll then have the task of getting the pinch bolt in which I know is going to be fun! My neck is killing me from tensing up whilst trying to get it all together too, so I'm a bit fed up! 🤬 I was planning to take some photos today too. 🤔

Chaps, I've gone to put my subframe back on today, and double checked the bentley for torque settings and it shows conflicting info. On page 40.2 it says 130 & 80Nm, but on page 40.19 it says 70 + 1/4 turn & 65Nm. The latter refers to vehicles with VR6 engine, but surely you'd think they would be higher and only marginally wouldn't you? Anyone shed any light and confirm what the correct spec should be please?