seanl82

I test drove a 2.0 and 1.8 valver before deciding on the 1.8. The 9a seemed Soooo sluggish in comparison when stock, the kr admittedly had breather mods though. This was before I had done much research into both lumps though, so now wish I'd gone 9a due to the fact I can't do much other than forced induction or transplant for extra power. I still love it though, and even 6 weeks later, I keep sticking my head out the door to just look at the loveliness! They really are gorgeous cars!

As a above. Reason being that most aftermarket stereos have constant and ignition live feeds the other way round.

The red with cables coming out is you distributer cap. What makes you think starter motor? Can you hear it running on after releasing the key? Does it sound high pitched and not actually cranking the engine?

Alternator is better than mine. Mine is reading 13.4v on and off load, so I'm getting a replacement. I would try relay and ignition switch first if I was you though. Relay offered for a fiver! Bite his hand off! VW for an ignition switch a month ago was around £26 including VAT. Or you could jump in at the deep end for about £160 for a reconditioned alternator if you prefer, I know what I'd be doing first!

I'm interested also, but are you making the 70 or 55 litre types or both? Cheers!

Good shout with header tank! It's the original black one as well so worth changing to the newer blue one. I've heard them not releasing pressure, but I guess that it could be constantly venting too which could cause lower temps with the system not being pressurised fully.

There is a set on eBay ATM for around £260 + p&p.

No, original standard one as far as I can tell.

It does point to stat as far as I can tell tbh. Just strange that both were the same when testing, and were more likely lazy than completely shot as they did both close. Only did it last week too! Oh well, will try another new one. Will give the sender wire a swap round out of curiosity also though. Thanks for all the replies fellas, didn't know if I was having a brain fart and missing something!

As said, I've changed the stat and whilst old one was out, I tested them both together in a pan of water on the hob. Both opened as they should, then closed when taken out and left to cool. Maybe worth changing sender, will give that a go first, but still takes a while for heaters to get warm anyways. (bearing in mind the foam is almost non existent now in channels from changing the matrix), but still doesn't seem quite right. Oh I've swapped out bypass valves for copper pipe too if that makes a difference?.

Hi chaps, have a problem which I'm not sure what else to try. My water temp never seems to get over 80 whilst driving. If sat at idle, it will get to 90-95 eventually, but never whilst rolling. Oil temps never get above 106 so think the pump is ok, and I've changed matrix, coolant, thermostat (did the boil test with both new and old one, and both operated correctly). I know it's a little chilly, but it takes quite a while to get to 80 too. Fan operates as it should somewhere in the region of 95 degs when at idle, but rarely notice it on after a drive so it's not constantly going or anything. Anything else I may have overlooked? Any help appreciated. Oh it's a KR, thanks guys.

I know of only 4 here including mine. A storm grey valver, a White valver, and a White G60. All the valvers including mine are members of the local forum, but never seen any others round these here parts. That was kinda the attraction for me tbh. Although a few handy local spares wouldn't go amiss!

It's a bit of a ballache, but not really difficult. Cover any electrics behind the centre console. I think that's how I cocked up my immobiliser by getting it wet when removing the old one. Get some sticky backed foam too. The vent flaps are covered in foam, blowers are not quite as effective any more, and I get occasional puffs of foam through the vents!

In my experience, dealer are always best for gaskets. Pattern parts never quite seal as well. If unavailable, tps, vws, etc etc........

Oil change yesterday, didn't get any pics as I was rushing to get back and pick my daughter up from school. Was planning on dropping the sump and cleaning it and the pickup out, but couldn't undo the 2 bolts up behind the gearbox bellhousing, dammit! Managed to loosen the subframe bolts with the airgun though, so changed the drivers wing today. Before During After Newer wing has a few scratches from storage, but much much better than the original. Trim is also back on it now, but the photo highlights how filthy the car is at the mo! Will deffo be giving it a full detail int the week, but it will have to be in stages whilst the missus is at work! Apparently the decorating work around the house should be taking priority! Lol

No there isn't a relief valve on pas system so no self bleed.

Yeah fair enough. Have you tried bleeding it just in case? Just take filler cap off and go full lock to full lock a couple of times with the engine running. Doubt it would be the cause for total failure that your experiencing but worth a pop I suppose?

Have the pipes kinked when you re-hung them? Have a look under, and see if they are twisted round each other or kinked as said. That's the first port of call anyway.

Need a new alternator now! Car wouldn't start yesterday, as battery was flat. Charged it for about 20 hours and it struggled but eventually caught. Battery was new 2 weeks ago as originally thought that was the problem, but obviously alternator is on it's way out. Getting 13.4v on and off load, so there is charge getting there, but it's obviously insufficient current to ensure full charge is taking place. Will pop down to devondubshack to see if I can pick one up tomorrow, if not then the bay of E it is as I can't afford a new/refurb one at the mo.

I know, its weird how small they look in comparison to modern cars. Mines lowered but only slightly, and it just looks really narrow at the front. Seems so much bigger when up close and when driving it! So much character in comparison too! God they look so good!!!!

Stuck in some BG44k after brimming the tank today. Heard lots of good things about it, and will report back with findings in a week or so. Changed leads, dizzy, rotor arm, cleaned panel filter, and changed the thermostat today as well. Got the ramps booked for Wednesday afternoon so will get some photos, but only got oil and filter and plugs left to replace (can't to plugs as don't have a deep socket yet). Gonna drop the sump for pickup clean and pump inspection too. Got some waxoil too for any ropey bits on the underside, and obviously give everything else a good eyeball. Only pic I've got since is this phone pic with the bra fitted. Will update as and when.

You may be able to remove the base foam and swap them around. Saw a thread on golfgtiforum today actually where someone did exactly that in a mk3 gti. It looks a bit long winded, and removing the foam was a bit of a pain in the arse, but it may be able to be done.

I also found an original alarm/immobiliser that had previously been disconnected last week. Control unit was behind the glove box. Wiring went into ignition loom and controlled all the above (ignition/fuel/coil). If you drop the panels under the steering wheel, you should see where it's spliced in. My aftermarket one died just before Xmas, and I disconnected that to get it running. The cabling into the bay on mine had been snipped and taped up, but you should be able to see where it comes through the firewall just below the coil. I got a mixed bad of grommets from halfords for a couple of quid, and one of em fitted perfectly to seal that up. Hope this helps mate.

Auto glym bumper care is by far the best stuff I've used. About £6.99 from halfrauds iirc. Last a good few months before even beginning to fade, and you get no streaks when it rains either. Boiled linseed oil is supposed to also be very good, or you could restore it to almost original colour by using a heat gun on it. Removal would obviously be best if your worried about paintwork, but there Are plenty of guides on u tube.

Could be a damp/wet dizzy or coil if you had the bonnet up whilstit was belting down. Spray a load of wd40 around electrical parts and check inside the dizzy for wetness when the rain stops.