seanl82

What does it look like? Hydraulic fluid is a pinky colour (if in reasonable condition obviously), but u knew that having just topped it up! Does it look like hydraulic oil or engine oil? Sorry for sounding patronising! :bonk:

Can you see any weeping from the actual slave cylinder? May be worth topping up, and giving that general area a jolly good clean. My rocker is weaping a fair amount of oil from the half moon on the gearbox side, and the oil collects in those spots after a while. Just be sure its hydraulic fluid thats there before forking out for a new slave cylinder mate.

Cheesy I'll take front strut brace mate. PM me details and I'll get payment sent across. Cheers!

Interested in front top strut brace. Is it standard chrome or is it painted, and do you have any pics of the damage. Cheers!

Sounds like a short. Most common I think is snagging if its running along the top of the rad fan cowling. Mine was doing it, and was dropping down and rubbing on the fan, exposing the wires. Just trace the wiring and see if there is anything obvious as a first step. Mine was also causing an earth and draining the battery if not run daily too. I just took the whole loom out, and as I've got decent lamps anyway, I couldn't notice any difference!

Love it! Seen the polo in the flesh a few times, and its awsome! Attention to detail is fantastic. :thumbleft: Cant wait to see the outcome of this, look proper Mad Max with that grille too! :dance:

MAF obviously sends the signal to the ECU with how much/how dense the air is for fueling. With the MAF unplugged, the ECU will revert to a base MAP. If your car runs better with it unplugged, that is indicative of a duff MAF I'm afraid! As said though, PX with your old unit at GSF/ECP are about £100.

Golf 3 battery covers should fit too. Cant see any reason why they wouldn't, they are big enough for the heavy duty ones anyway.

I don't know anywhere near as much as you about fueling/forced induction/AWD systems etc etc, so everything you've said has made me sit up and take notice. I would be very interested in seeing this materialise, and wish you the best of luck for the build mate! I'm sure it won't be without a few hurdles and some headscratching moments, but you seem to know what your doing so best of luck! :thumbleft:

A quick wash and dressing, and used the CG Jetseal 109 I've just received. Only managed one coat though as the heavens opened just as I finished buffing off! Was great to see a bit of beading straight away though! This stuff is awsome, only downside is that it now shows every chip, scratch and dink on the car. And there are A LOT! Great beading, and fantastic glossy look! Also changed my repeaters for clear ones.

Its all about Plus Gas! Its the future, I've seen it! :smug:

I dont know if the sunroof is controlled from the window control unit, but if it is then a poor connection/wiring fault with the input/unit itself then that could account for both being intermittent. :scratch: I'm sure someone will have a definitive answer to that. If its not the window control unit, then the only option is to chase the wiring back and look for any problems.

Does it happen on any specific setting? Do you think its more likely the heater control, or the fan? Other than a loose connection at either the switch, fusebox, or fan itself, the only other thing I can think of is broken switch or fan. Take the switch out and have a look at the contacts on the rear. Make sure they're clean and making decent contact with a good 'notch' on each switch setting.

Breaking section on here. Would need the whole headlight loom from someone I expect, but other than that, I reckon your out of options. :shrug:

Ok thanks gents. I wont bother then with all the afterwork it would create. Just bang it off, block pipework off, and rub it down a clean it up I think. :thumbleft:

Hi Gents. I've had a search but couldn't find anything, and I want to clean up the banjos and pipework on the fuel distribution system on my KR. Obviously removing everything will mean I need to replace O'seals & washers etc, but is there a specific kit around for this? Cheers fellas!

Remember to support the engine when removing the bracket. A jack underneath should be fine. Also, some of the golf 3 boys have used hockey pucks in the past to good effect. Linky! http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=212007.0

The only real way to make the revs drop quicker is to get the flywheel lightened. With less weight there is less inertia so it will slow quicker. If you've got a spare belt, well worth changing it. Less than a fiver for a new one from ECP/GSF regardless. I have a KR, and I found second gear to be seriously looooonnnnnnnnngggggggggg! lol! First is quite short tbh, but 2nd will put you past 70 til the limiter kicks in! Mine takes a while to drop off revs, more so when cold for some reason though?. :shrug:

Sounds like an earth somewhere. Could well have been bought on by water though. Worth checking all engine bay earths are all clean and secure as a first step.

I have vibratech mounts on mine, with the front being solid. They were on when I bought the car, and receipts show they were fitted in 2008 at TSR in Bridgewater. All is well, and I think they are pretty good, with no excessive vibration at idle. They aren't cheap though iirc, but you may be able to get a good deal on them. Also never heard of any problems with pattern parts from GSF/ECP if your sceptical about them.

I just used circlip pliers last time. Remove the fluid reservoir cap to make it easier. That was on a golf 3 though, so not entirely sure of the setup as I've not looked at my 16v. If the pistons have 2 holes, you should be hot to trot. :smug:

Went to Bristol in it over the w.end. Performed faultlessly there and Back (Plymouth), and showed up the mk2 focus, and 3 series beamer that were trying to get up my sisters road on Sunday Morning! They were struggling to get up it, and as I came down and saw the ice, I thought "oh no, I'm gonna struggle getting back up". No such problems on my 205/50/15 budgets though, and left them merrily spinning away! :smug:

As you've said, a compressor and air lines is a v.good idea. A plain workbench with vice is a good idea too, as well as a shelving area etc...... Maybe a hydraulic press either freestanding or bench mounted would be a good idea, and can be had for less than a ton for the keen diy'er. Get a machine mart catalogue and go through all of it. Ive planned my dream garage out a million times on paper, now just have to find about 30k to achieve it though! Lol.

Rowan, is there any chance you could post up a sort of guide or parts list required for stickying. As you said there's not much info about, and I'm thinking of doing it in the summer. I'm sure others will think this too in the not to distant future with KR's dying and ABFs readily available from rusty old mk3s! Would make a good knowledge base as to how you go about it, parts needed, apparent obstacles and ways round them etc etc...........

Water temps shouldnt get above the low 90's though. Rad fan will kick in before it reaches above that, so unless your engine temps are uber high, the fan should be sufficient to cool the water in conjunction with weather at the moment!