sam2.0

From what I've read, some of the cables weren't long enough to do so. Maybe this has been rectified.

That's the post I was looking for, thanks!

I've read loads of topics, but all from 4+ years ago. My C will be being used at night (daily, and in the middle of no where) so need to get my lights sorted. I was going to go loom and new bulbs (H4 Philips VisionPlus). Do I still contact H100VW for the loom? Or can anyone pass me on a ebay link?

OEM wheels and tyres.

That's it, H&R! That rings a bell. Sounds like I'd just need to replace these. Is the something OEM-ish that is recommended? Is it much work? I'll get my MOT done, then look into this.

I need to sort out the ride I get when going over speed bumps, small pot holes etc. It just crashes the car about, even though it feels like the suspension is working, its just aggressive. I have sachs advantage shocks, which I understand are OEM, and all I can tell from the springs is they are blue (I seems to remember being told they were after market when I bought the car). What can cause this? Springs don't look snapped (...BMW background). What do I need to do to find out the issue?

Followed a dark blue C on Sunday through Tingewick, he then went right on the roundabout, I went straight on towards Bicester. I was in the Z4.

The car doesn't feel as good as it did when I bought it, in the twisties. Even the garage I took it to recently said it was a bit loose. Are the drop links easy to do? I imagine I need to the the ARB off, so I may as well do the bushes for that at the same time. Even worth doing the roll bar (the look pricey online) Are the bolts just single nut, or do I need to hold the middle while undoing the nut?

This fault has developed over the last month. Basically, when going over a speed bump or a small pot hole, I get a tinny metallic 'clanging' noise from the front end. It can be either wheel, but they both make very similar noises. I also suspect this issue is causing the car to handle badly, its not what it was. I've had the car up and there isn't any movement when moving the wheels, and I can't see anything lose underneath it. I did notice this though (pic). Could this be it? Anything else I need to check? Car is a '95 2.0 16v [ATTACH]75133[/ATTACH]

Pics? IF not, I'm after the drivers seat in the black cloth with blue triangles material.

+1 for pics. DumptyBoy, are you only after the rear bench? I only need a drivers seat as 1 of the sides goes limp. Maybe we could part buy between us?

The Pedometer? It's on the bottom on the MAF. Tells the ECU if the throttle is shut or open.

Hi, I'm after a pedometer (048133154). Can you part that out? If that doesn't fix my issue, maybe a ISV? Or even the Lambda sensor! Where are you based, as there is something up with my car, but don't want to buy all the parts it could be. Might be good to swap a few about?

Maybe speaking too soon, but all of the issues seem sorted. Well, all bar a slightly high ISV, they've said mine is temperamental, if you give it a tap it works, then will stop. So on the hunt for a new one. I'll run her for a week or so and then treat her to an oil change.

With the garage all day yesterday and they're stumped too. Problem is, bits will need replacing to rule it out. They've not had a reading from the lambada sensor, so they're assuming its either a car or sensor or both. They've tweaked the mixture, and got it to run well when hot, and have kept it over night to test what its like when cold, as thats the main issue.

Well with or without the 5th injector connected, it still seems lumpy. But the car is warm now, so not a direct comparison.

Today was possibly the worst day upon start up. Firstly it didn't fire, it turned over but didn't fire. I gave it some 'gas' and it finally started, but tick over was about 300rpm, a few blips of the throttle and it levelled out to ~800rpm. It stunk of fuel though, proper unburnt fuel when driving along. When its warm it does act better, but still a bit rough when putting my foot down. I'll try looking at some of those suggestions tonight. It's booked into the garage tomorrow as I'm fed up with it!

bump.

Well HT leads replaced, still running badly. Sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Fuel filter is new, over 1/3rd of a tank of ultimate fuel. Nothing restricting the air flow or the butterfly valve. I've recorded the sound, see attached. Both with me fully 'revving', and you can see the revs hesitating. http://tinypic.com/r/54hm47/5 http://tinypic.com/r/c58nd/5

I doubt I've got uprated headlights as they are **** poor! 2.0 16v 9a '95.

(Not sure if ICE or Engine bay) While doing some work around the fuse box, I saw this relay which was just attached to cables with crimps. Any idea what it does?

Bang on, there is arching. Going to clean the dizzy etc tonight, all ignition is fairly new though, 6 months maybe Yea, 2.0 16v

Following on from this thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?80030-9a-issue-with-timing-next-issue/page6 In summary: I've changed the head gasket and had a garage do the timing for me. Since then the car was laid up for a month while I dabbled with an E30. Now the C is back on the road, and it's running rough. Initially I thought it could be low fuel/crap getting sucked into the engine, so I've topped her up and still bad after 30 miles (tank was at 1/3 full before). The car has had a new fuel filter only 3k miles ago. It sounds like a tractor/go-kart when going through the revs but when its decelerating, it sounds fine. It also will jump from sounding rough to sounding fine for a second and back. Ideas?

Bump. Still after drivers mat.

I've changed the head gasket on my car, and would like to do a oil & coolant change. Is it best to do a "flush" cycle with some cheapo oil and coolant before using the recommended products? Or, as they are both cheap enough, just do a change with the correct product and do an other in 3-4k? Also, what oil for a 2.0 16v (140k miles) I've read the best is Quantum 10w40 Semi, paired with G12++.