sam2.0
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Everything posted by sam2.0
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The fan kicks in, pretty sure on the 2 step speed too. Pump was my first answer, but the belt snapped recently and the water got hot so quickly, I doubt the pump has failed as the water still takes time to get hot.
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Took my 2.0 16v on a longer journey today, it got up to temp ok and ran fine, but as soon as I hit a bit of traffic and slowed down the temp started to rise, luckily I was at my destination, so just turned the car off. Set off home again a few hours later and got most of the way home and the temps were high again, this was with me driving along. I pulled over and let it cool before driving the 2 miles left. I managed to lower the temp both times by putting the hot air on and keeping the revs higher to get the pump working, it'd lower it by a few degrees. I've changed the following: Coolant Coolant hoses Water pump belt Thermostat My rad has a tiny tiny leak, which I will replace, but would it cause the car to overheat?
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Its £120 new, and its been used for 10 minutes.
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I've put it on ebay, but will sell outside of it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280961497746
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Yea, Bosch. 2.0 (check the username).
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Mine is 1220522015. Give it a go and post back ;)
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I suppose you could make a bracket anyway. If mounting isn't an issue, just ensure the technical spec is all the same. I'd be interested to know, as I've still only got 2xoriginal ones, could probably do with replacing.
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They are convinced as their computer says YES. How would you mount it? I bought one second hand cylindrical one from a member on here and it worked fine. Not sure where you can get a new one from. ETA: I'll look on mine for a part number for you.
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QUick update: got a few people to look at it, no water in the oil! Done a coolant and thermostat change just in case it was on its was out.
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I was planning on draining the water and oil, swapping the oil coolers over and putting new oil and coolant in. Run it for a week and then replace the oil and coolant again. Like you say, to clean it all out. The steam only happened once for 10 seconds. I turned it off immediately, spend 5 minutes checking everything and turned it back on (it was already at operating temp) and left it for a further 20 minutes without it steaming. I may do loops of a local road that I can sit at a good speed then pull over and let it idle, to see if I can get it above normal temps. Here are 2 images of the dipstick after the car was running for about 10 mins. (click the images to enlarge) [ATTACH=CONFIG]69203[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]69204[/ATTACH]
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Yes, I am aware :) But as I had to drive it home, and I thought it was leaking I put a little more in. I took the cap off when it was hot, as I knew coolant would come out, now its the right level.
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When it was cold it was above the max marker, as I put loads in to drive it home. I also opened the header tank when it was warm, it didn't do it itself.
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]69201[/ATTACH]
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The cars been sitting for 4 days now. No sparks are wet. Compression all seems fine (pic to follow), they are all 13bar. It got up to temp and didn't move, it was only idling, but I was stuck in traffic when it overheated. It seemed fine apart from a little steam from the rad (area) when it got hot for the first time today, there was too much Coolant in the system, so I assumed it was burning off?
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I imagine removing the coolant hose will mean coolant will leak everywhere?
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I assume I'll also need to flush the engine (and coolant to be thorough). Do I use a standard 10w40, or get something different to ensure its done a good job?
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Compression test tonight then. No steam from exhaust etc, runs as it did before. This is a photo of mine, looks old enough, but no corrosion around the inlet/outlet.
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Yes, I've just read up about these. I'm going to test compression tonight and take the oil heat exchanger off ASAP. I suppose you can't see if its the oil heat exchanger, you just need to replace and renew oil and water and see what happens?
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Driving the car the other day, the water temp went a bit above the usual level, so pulled over and stopped the car. Topped the water up and it then ran fine for the return journey and has since. But, there is water in the oil. Its not a milky colour or anything, you can just tell its not 100% oil on the dipstick. There is no oil in the header tank. Obvious answer is head gasket. Could I get away with anything else? What it worth in this state, suppose someone could buy it for parts or an engine swap.
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Photos would be good, before I tackle it! Might see if I can just get a seat cheap and swap it out! Thanks
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If I recline my seat to the correct level, one side of it won't hold and it'll recline even more, causing the seat to not be level. I'd rather not look like a tit, leaning into the centre of the car with (1 hand on top of the wheel is compulsory when this happens), so any ideas of a fix? I imagine the recline cog has lost some teeth. I'm tempted to whip the seat out and take the assembly apart, but wonder if I'll get it back together again or find a spare part.
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Looking at my label it says LC9Z, which isn't listed. But a bit of research shows me its on the guide as "Diamond Black Pearl Effect", also referred to as "black magic".