copierbw

This is what I love the most about this forum...Everyone tries to help... :lol: Cheers stevemac

That might be a solution if he has the amp is bridged down to a very low ohm rating like 2 or lower (with loads of amp's and subs in the boot) and the surge from the amp is too much and faster than what the amp can deliver from it's own internal stiffening capacitors. But on the other hand you will always have a slightly dimming head unit even if you overfeed the head unit with a higher voltage or 20 stiffening capacitors. It is hard to tell how much his head unit are dimming and I guess the perfect answer would only be possible if we guys knew exactly what his setup looked like from the head unit rating down to the amp... :D

Would my assumption be right in saying you have 2 channels bridged to power the subwoofer. The second pair on the amplifier are connected to the 6'X9' individually. Where did you connect the dash speaker to? If on the amplifier did you also connected them to the 6'X9' channel did you || (par) or = (ser) them. What is the RMS rating on the speakers on the dash, ohm rating? I have a idea the dash speakers are being clipped (not being able to handle the power given to them). That sound is normally heard when they are being played out of their power capability range and the sine wave turn into a block wave and the speaker starts to bottom, heat their coils and eventually after long hours of play burns the coil or goes open circuit..

In all honesty the 5A fuse under normal radio play load conditions would be more than enough especially if the radio isn't cranked to peak volume (testing purposes). You would have a lower amp fuse in the radio and higher in the fuse box and I wouldn't suggest going higher on the radio fuse than the fusebox protection rating. If you had a wiring problem on your radio wires, your main fuse (fuse box) would have blown, and it's not... Thus meaning the fault is before the radio fuse, pointing towards the inside of the radio... My best bet would be to make sure you have a propper earth on the radio (measure this). If that's fine I can't think of anything else than a component in the radio that gets hot and the thermal heat :evil: lets the current raise and the fuse blows... (Sorry if the explanation is too simple but I am not sure about your knowledge and are only trying to help) :lol:

Are there any pictures of "Nick Micouris's" VR6 somewhere in the forum to go and have a look at? :lol:

Sorry, I forgot to mention that you can buy "cheap" amps with "DC Output Protection" on speaker outputs... Just check the specs of the amp...

No, some cheap amps are really good and if ventilated, even better... Just remember that like with a car engine heat is the biggest killer of electronical components and with a amp running a great load they get even hotter (more so when bridged) Most expensive amps are more stabe under higher loads (good damping factor), better construction and layout, better heat dispensation etc etc... I would say the golden rule.. Don't go lower than rated ohm, keep well ventilated, keep a eye on heat...This blows the components and can fry your speakers again....

It sounds to me if your amp are "outputting" (dc-voltage) to your speakers. This will defnitely fry them one by one. I am quite sure you have some blown component within the amp. This normally translates to mosfets but to be certain you have to test the amp...