RPoul

It only blows 2-5mins into driving and doesn't blow if the car is just left idling which I don't get. Maybe something to do with ECU or fuel management? Or damaged cable that touches metal when moving about?

Ha yeah also ran all the tests on the fan by bridging the thermo switches. Fan does kick in, after runs and switches off as normal even without the fuse in. Nothing seems to switch off but the car does run a little rough and by the smell of the exhaust a bit rich. Its driving me nuts!

No nothing stops working as far as I know! I have done a search and people have generally said the car just doesn't start and don't give an explanation for it. I've take the fuse out and the spoiler still works.

Yeah have looked up what the fuse is for (electronic ignition, idle stabiliser, deceleration fuel shut off)I've checked the idle stabiliser wiring but not the others as I'm not entirely sure of where I should be looking. Its a 10 amp and have tried larger amp fuses and they blow too. Looking at what the fuse regulates the current to the car shouldnt start!

Also took the ISV out checked the wiring and gave it a good clean. Couldnt see anything that would be causing it to blow

Its a 92 vr6. Spoiler comes up as normal and can hear the water pump working before starting the engine.

Hi my fuse #15 keeps blowing after 5-10 mins of driving. I've put a volt meter across it showing up 12v passing through which I'm guessing is a bit high!? I've checked the wiring in the engine bay (PCV heater, idle control etc) and cant see anything a miss, trapped or melted. Looking at other threads where the same fuse has been blowing owners have been complaining about the car not starting or starting up then dying. This hasn't been the case with mine which seems to be running fine (maybe idle revs drop a bit low sometimes). Just a bit worried that this is causing damage that I cant see now and will develop into a major problem later on! So before I take the dash out any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Yeah I thought it might be something to do with the cooling system but when I flushed the system out I had got the temperature up so that the fan would come on. When it kicked in the fuse didnt blow. From the looks of the fuse diagram fuse 15 manages the ECU, ignition and idle control problem is I dont know where I should be looking for problems.

or maybe a relay?

Did a coolant flush found that the fuse inst blowing when the fan comes on. Seems to only do it when driving around maybe something to do with the ECU?

Thanks Si I did all the test on the fan from the definitive cooling guide and it worked fine. I have found that the fuse doesn't blow straight away, it might be blowing when the fan comes on? Not sure.

there are tests in the definitive cooling guide that you can do to find out whether its the sender or module. Mine just had this too and it turned out to be the sender. You might want to check fuse 15 in the driver foot well fuse board. Mine blew when the fan started playing up and still is. Don't think there is any connection though

Did all the coolant component tests and narrowed it down to the radiator thermo sensor which when unplugged stopped fuse 15 blowing and stopped the radiator fan from going off. Still not sure why fuse 15 is blowing though. A worn out thermo sensor wouldnt cause this would it? There was no obvious sign of deterioration when looking at the sensor and the plug.

Sorry was meant to say 'no emblem' cheers

Battery was dead this morning ran back in and recharged it and reconnect it all fine and drove off. Stopped for gas on the trip and heard the radiator fan on stage 3 spin chose to ignore it as I was running late I checked the temperature on the way and it wasn't high so I knew something was up and it has never gone to stage 3 before. Got back home and the fan didn't switch off as it used to when cooling down. I've looked up the various problems and solutions others have had and tried them to no avail (disconnecting the thermo sensors didnt help either). After unplugging the radiator fan I also found that the aux pump was also not switching off and fuse 15 (electronic ignition, idle stabilizer etc)had blown but the car still started and ran fine which I though a bit odd. I changed the fuse anyway but it blew straight away. I was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions or similar problems which they've managed to sort out before I call out an auto sparky. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don't fancy cycling into work with the weather as it is!!

One black VR6 liner please (emblem)

pm'd you marshall

A bit far too! Might just settle for a terraclean for now and look at leather later on. The cloth interior is still in good nick

Preferably cream/beige

Looking for cream or black leather seats and door cards in reasonable condition not too far from Reading. cheers

So took it in and guess what they messed up. Glue set before the guy could but in the trim parts so got to take it back to have the new screen removed and reinstalled. So far no damage to the car. Fingers crossed for the second install! Even gave the guy the instructions on how to install the bloody thing!!

Ok cheers

Hey sorry to bring this up again but I've got to get a new windscreen installed (not to mention a new seat after bricking it was quite a loud bang!). Going through this thread just got me a bit confused. If I get it done through a glass fitter (forced upon me by my insurer) do they automatically get the trims etc. or do I need to point it out to them or provide them, or can I just lay back and relax? Cos to be honest this is thread has got me quite worried! Also just doing a search on it found that the 98 civic mouldings fit and look better as its just one piece, has anyone else done this lately? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5696176-A-Civic-windshield-moulding-works-on-our-Corrados... Cheers

cost isnt an issue although i like a good bargin! but yeah just wanted to run it by the elders so to speak!

brilliant! just what i wanted to hear! cheers you guys