Tom Thorpe

I've got an AYP 1.8 20V Turbo from a Seat Ibiza Cupra which I'm hoping to fit in my Corrado within the first half of this year. Is it possible to just fit the Ibiza ECU without the Ibiza clocks? If so I'm assuming I'll need to get an auto electrician to delete the clocks.

I'll check the seats for wiring but there's no wiring or sensors on the rear wheels. Cheers.

Hi, should there only be ABS sensors on the front of the Corrado. A guy at the garage said he'd never seen a car with ABS on the front but not on the back :-S

Thanks, I'll have a look into all of these. Im in Leeds but I had the Fuel Injection tuned a couple of months back. They plugged into the ECU and the only error they mentioned was that it was running rich. I'll be in touch with my findings. Thanks Tom

My ABS light never lights up at all, even when I turn the ignition on. It is also clear that the ABS isn't working as I am able to lock up my front wheels. Any suggestions? Tom

What fuel rail did you use?

Has anybody got any pictures of their Rados lowered by 35/40mm?

Mine was running rather thirsty so I put a new metering unit on and at first it drove not too bad, but then I lost all power. Stupidly i limped it to my friends and by the time I'd popped the bonnet, the exhaust manifold had turned orange. I'm hoping the engine isn't damaged but its clear it was running too lean. This has put me off fiddling with the fuel metering system.

I'm in Leeds, I replaced the injectors today to see if that helped. It drove fine for about 2 miles then lost all power. I pulled up after another 3 miles and checked under the bonet to see if there was a fuel leak but found that My Exhaust manifold was glowing orange. I'm hoping I haven't damaged the engine. Going to put the original injectors on tomorrow and hopefully it will run.

Yeah I normally get about 280 to a tank on a round town run. I would assume its running rich as the exhaust is black. I've just put a new injector system on so I'm hoping that will help as everything else that I've tried hasn't yet helped. :-(

My 2ltr 16v is using way too much fuel and I can't seem to find the problem, so I'm tempted to put a megasquirt on. I realise I'll have to add a fuel rail, electronic injectors, modify the air box and change a fair few other parts and thats why I'm wondering whether its worth doing. I'm expecting it to cost about £700 and hoping that it will raise the power by a significant amount as well as giving good fuel economy. Has anyone done this or think it would be worth while doing? Tom

I'm jealous! The best I can get from my 2ltr 16v is 27 and it averages 18. I've no idea how to sort it.

I'll have to try highering mine then, when I first put mine it without the washers, the middle of the glass was slightly higher than the roof whilst the sides sat flush with the roof.

I think its more aimed at the idiots that don't bring the dogs up properly, you often get idiots with staffies and unfortunately its them who are giving the dog a bad name. I think it needs reporting to the police as its the owner who's encouraging the dog to chase the cat. My Alsation/rock willer would chase a cat until I shout her, the owners that don't shout their dogs back don't deserve to have the dog as they do seem to be a bunch of whimps who like to think they're so called 'Hard'. But like I've attempted to explain here, I don't think the comments about dog owners are aimed at the good dog owners, they're aimed at the bad ones like the idiot neighbour.

My air filter on my 2ltr 16v Rado seems to smell of fuel. I've noticed theres a small drop of fuel on the arm of the mechanical injection. If there was a leak in the injection system, would it be an obvious spray with it being a 70psi fuel pump? Also the average MPG around town is 18 and the max I've ever had is 27. Is it normal for the air filter to smell of fuel with the mechanical injection system?

It took me a day but that was faffing with all the interior trimmings and re-uPholsterong parts. Changing the sunroof itself is the easy bit. I believe it makes a massive difference to the light inside and I much prefer it. Well done on getting the job done. I'll chuck some pics on of mine. Also people have seemed to reccomend the passage sunroof as apparently it's a much better mechanism than the Corrados.

The same thing had happened with mine too, it's much nicer having a working sunroof! Good luck with it :-)

I re-upholstered my interior cover as it had a hole in it but I believe it matched. Once the roof lining is out, compare it against the cover as if you need to re upholster it, you'll have to do it before you put the sunroof in. The upholstery cost me about £2 so it wasn't expensive. My sunroof didn't come with a motor so that's why I used the original corrado motor, I'd try the one that came with it though if its the same connector as I'm assuming its a more powerful motor. Just test it, you don't need to drop the sunroof to swap the motor so if you find it doesn't work, put the corrado motor on and it should be fine. I'd do all that before re-installing the roof lining though. Hope this helps and don't hesitate to ask any questions if your unsure. Its all pretty straight forwards though :-) let me know how you get on. Tom

How much would you recommend lowering the Corrado by? I dont want it too low, I'd jsut like to lower it so it looks neater, stiffens the suspension yet still performs on the uk roads well. Also which lowering springs are the best for the money?

When I ground the coolant temp sensor it triggers the warning, whether thats a fail safe for if the coolant level sensor fails or not I don't know.

My 1993 2ltr 16v is just the same, the max I get out of a tank is 280 miles and it averages between 12-18 mpg, not very nice on my wallet in this day and age. Do you recommend checking the timing then?

Ive just changed my thermostat and my temp sensor, now my temperature is reading 7/8ths of the way up the gauge and the temp light is flashing. The fan kicks in about a minute after the temperature warning light begins to flash. However the oil temperature is only at 102, I have also noticed that the original sensor read from 0-120 where as the new one reads from 0-125. According to VW the 2.0ltr 16v requires the 0-125 sensor yet its telling me the engines overheating when theres nothing else to suggest it is. Any suggestions? Tom

I grounded the coolant sensor thats on the right hand side of the engine and that triggered the warning light. Tom ---------- Post added at 9:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:33 PM ---------- I fixed the gauge by lifting the needle up until it clicked, the gauge works fine now. Its just reading higher than the temperature actually is. Tom

I fitted a new temperature sensor to my Rado and now I seem to get the water temperature light flashing at me when at a stand still. I grounded the wire from the sensor to see if this activated the warning light to give me an idea of whether its a faulty sensor and it did trigger the warning light. unfortunately though, when my temperature gauge was at the top, it suddenly dropped to the bottom and now reads 0 all the time as if somethings blown. Is there a fuse for the gauge or will I need a new set of clocks to fix it? Tom

Hi there, Ive just fitted an N reg passat sunroof into my Corrado. I've had to use a few washers to lower the sunroof as its sligtly more bubble shaped than the Rados. Its slightly noisy though so I'm going to raise mine up slightly (hopefully sealing the roof better). Other than that though its a perfect fit, I used a few longer bolts at the front though as I'd lowered it but all the holes match up perfectly and the Rados sunroof motor also bolts straight on and works perfect. Hope this helps, Tom