petemcr

Cheers man. I have got the upgraded one, supposed to be a perm fix for them snapping. I don't know if it makes causes issues but I don't know the length I need to cut down the sheath to for the cable, not sure if that would impact it or not.

Hey all, hope everyone is well. I've been getting around to sorting my bonnet cable out, I've previously had a workaround in place using two cables to pull the springs to release it, but I want to get the handle working again. I can't seem to get it working where both arms release correctly, the striker pins are set to 57mm as per guides I've seen, I was missing the Bowden sheath that sits between the two anchor points so I've made one up to fit the length, but it seems like the cable just isn't long enough to release both arms, the passengers side just doesn't quite fully pull enough to release the striker. I suspect over the years I am missing something, does anyone have any information/pictures of their bonnet cable system I can look at, I'm using a Audi 100 cable I ordered online, I don't know if it is cut too long or short, any info would be amazing if anyone has any.

Possibly, I did also hit it with some electrical contact cleaner so maybe that also worked into it as well. No idea but it's running again for now.

Well, I don't know what I did, but I just went up with my tester to follow the relay testing from the Bentley manual, all fine, bar one which I couldn't get a good test on so I had to force the tester in a little further. The fuse, albeit was testing fine, I swapped for a more modern one as it was really looking. It's now starting every time off the key without issue, tried it a dozen or so times, no issues. So I'm happy, but completely baffled as to what the issue was or what fixed it.

Hey Phil, cheers for the reply. I thought it was the relay, my old one already had the cover off it so I could see the internals, I actually taped down the contact so it was perm bridged and it started and ran, but even with a brand new relay it doesn't run, it has only run once with the new relay. I just taped the old one again so I could drive it and it's not starting again, nor can I hear the pump. In term of relays it all looks like that side works, there's 12v, it clicks on, if clicks as I turn it over but it's just like it won't power the pump. Think my next stop now is going to be probe the fuel pump plug and make sure it gets 12v when the relay is engaged, I'm out of ideas past that.

Hi all, Sorry if this is under the wrong section, it's a no start issue but I suspect it's a relay but I figure it would be under this section, feel free to move it over if needed. I'll save rambling on too much but, I have decided to bring my Corrado out of storage after a year and a half, it went in running, but had a weird issue one day that went, but would idle, the second I let the clutch out it would bog right down and make a terrible noise, but then if you let the clutch in, it would idle fine again. Fast forward a year later, I managed to drive it out of the unit I store it at, let it idle for a while so it would come up to temp, all okay, I switched it off and then came to move it again and it wouldn't start. I decided, because the 167 relay I had was old and tired looking I would short the 30/87 pins, and boom, she started up fine, ran fine. I've ordered a new relay (albeit cheap) from eBay to test, but with the relay in I still get no start, I jumper the pins and it starts no issue, weird part is I put the relay back in, it started for a bit and idled but if I try to move it, it cuts out and stalls, and then refused to start again, back to the shorted pins... drives perfectly fine. Other than it being a faulty relay I'm at a loss as to what is causing it, I checked for voltage on 85 I think it is to make sure the ECU is shorting it correctly and I get 0 volts, I only see constant 12v on pin 30 I think it was and can hear the fuel pump when I short the pins. I did scan it with VagCom and the only code I get is for G28 crank position sensor, which from what I understand is expected when the engine is off because it's not getting any signal. Sorry for the long post tl;dr - VR6 wont' start after being stood, starts fine with the pins on the 167 relay shorted out but won't with a relay, bar one time where it started then stalled again

These for the VR6? I'm interested but I may need to wait till next month so I'll check back and see if you've still got them, I'm fairly close in Congleton as well so I'll collect if they haven't done.

Going to try this today if I get chance or weekend, I was under the impression the control module for the Windows and CL was the one located behind the rear seat, I didn't know the CL had its own control module built into the pump. What did you use to supply the 12v current?

That was also the other reason which put me off, the relocating of everything on to the opposite side, not a huge amount of work but still... and if the Porsche engine lets you retain everything where it should be all the better. I always figured the 2.8 24v (baby 32) might have been a good choice, just given the kind of car they would come off might be less likely to have been trashed all its life, I believe they were called the old mans R32, can only imagine most R32's and Audi 3.2's have been driven hard all their lives now.

I spoke to Vince at Stealth about the R32 conversion and that was his take as well, few years back you could get a relatively young engine that didn't need any work doing, but now with the age of them and how much parts cost, he said it isn't as worthwhile a conversion any more. I've noticed a lot of people are using the Porsche engine though out of the Cayenne which I believe is the same engine as the R32, just further developed by Porsche.

I'd not noticed, I never knew it ran again or even noticed, wonder if it could be the pump. The actuator on the petrol filler cap works with the key but I don't believe that uses vacuum as it sounds more electrical and I don't hear the pump at all. To add to this, I also had a RightCLICK C/L unit fitted which was plug and play, so it sat between the factory loom and the pump, I'd imagine it sends a signal to the pump the c/l has been triggered to cause it to lock, but I removed that when the CL started playing up, I then re-fitted it once it started working again and it was all working fine, then... stopped again, but I can hear the RightCLICK unit clicking when I press the key, just no pump noise.

I gave this a go while everything was working, Locked the door latch with a screw driver, kept trying the CL while messing with the concertina, no change, everything was working fine, did the same on the boot and passengers door, still no change. It started raining a little here for about an hour, went back out and it had packed in again, so no more central locking and the fuel filler cap is back to unlocking when the car is locked and locked when the car is unlocked, Something is defo a miss with the wiring and water ingress is causing it but I can not for the life of me find where it is.

I'll give it a try today, I take it then while I'm trying to operate the central locking it's a case of seeing if it stops working when I press the concertina to check if there is a split in there somewhere?

So the central locking has suddenly started to work as of today, out of the blue, with nothing being done. Then after I drove it, it stopped again, drop it back home and sure enough, working again, so I'm a little confused as to what is happening with it.

I've not actually checked, I figured it was something like the unit with it being the same on board side, the only thing which appears to work is the full closure now, I'll have a check and see if any wires are broken, be a relief if it was that.