Bast

That's really kind of you bud, I think Shaun has answered it though. Thanks for your efforts anyway Ah amazing, thanks for clearing that up. Much appreciated 🙂

Fantastic, thanks for looking mate. So it's something Shaun mentioned earlier in the thread. I'm not sure of it's purpose 🙂

that'd be much appreciated 🙂

Just to resurrect this thread. Does anyone know if a 1.8 16v support would work for a VR6? Curios what the extra bracket on the VR6 version is for

I could be interested in this mate, just waiting to get the diagnosis for my Rado at the weekend. Is the shell in good shape? Rot free?

Hell, that was a quick reply! Awesome, alright if I have a drive up to get it at some point? And do you have an idea of price in mind? Cheers Tom

Hey all. Due to rot behind my fuel filler cap, I'm looking for a replacement rear quarter panel (drivers side obviously) as well as the inner skin that goes behind the panel. Anyone breaking a corrado that can help Close to york or willing to post Cheers

Hi Ollie Just wondered about the shell, how badly have the arches been done? Is the corrosion above the screen fairly deep set or is it just surface? Anything else up with it? Cheers

Hey, sorry for the slow reply. Never actually got to the bottom of it, I believe it to be a problem with the ECU itself but without trying another ECU I can't be 100% sure. The problem was that the relay wasn't being triggered by the ECU when the ignition was live, the wiring between the fusebox and the ECU itself checked out, equally, the grounds from the ECU were all fine (unbolted, cleaned them up then re-attached) A final check I did was unplug the ECU and earth the pin 6 (Cant remember exactly) on the loom, which resulted in the pump priming on ignition live. Get the relay out and try both the ignition live (pin 2) and the ECU - Relay switch on (Pin 3 or pin g1/03 at the back of the fusebox) Check the wiring continuity between ECU and fusebox. Check you're earths at the Battery and at the back of the head of the engine (assuming its a VR6)Not sure if there's anymore. You Could check that the ECU is getting power by testing pins 38 (ignition live) and 54 (permanent live) on the ECU connector and and 1, 7, 10, 55 and 56 are all earths. You could also try the final check that I did above. I'll hopefully get hold of a spare ECU sometime soon to test further, without sounding odd, I really hope that's the problem :D Still have the issue of cutting out when low on fuel, but I think that's more an indication to the pump being on its way out or loose in its housing or something

Price seems about right if it's in good condition. Might be worth trying to haggle a bit if any of the drivetrain looks worn. Generally though, they seem like quite good bikes and from what I can tell are quite adjustable so you can get comfy on it easy enough :thumbleft:

Always thought yours was midnight blue for some reason. Either way, looks fantastic

Cracking stuff :thumbleft: looking forward to seeing it back on the road

Thanks for that Roger, quite an interesting thought, will have a look at that as well when I get the callipers off at the weekend. So is the general consensus that these callipers should be alright for the car and likely just needing cleaned up? Thanks all :)

Righto, will have a go at this at the weekend, cheers :thumbleft: Thats good of you cheers. Just been looking at some late mk3 ones, but will take you up on the offer if nothing comes of them :)

Cheers, already know about the mk4 upgrade as well as the late mk3 golf callipers with the internal handbrake spring. But would just be good to ascertain as to whether the girlings are suitable or not before I buy any others. Also they have a 38mm piston, well I assume thats what the big 38 refers to on the top of them :D [ATTACH=CONFIG]79317[/ATTACH]