TajMan

Turns out the problem I was having was because my timing was a couple of notches off on the intermediate shaft that runs the distributor. Doh! Carefull when messing with timing.

And the cause was: The timing was 1 or 2 teeth off on the intermediate shaft for the distributor. Doh!

I checked, my timing belt isn't overtightened. It does the 90 degree twist perfect on the longest stretch. I remember checking it this way when I installed it originally too. Any other guesses?

But would that explain the knocking/whizzing sound only happening under FULL throttle?

I think my timing belt is too tight! I had a mechanic tell me that today, and I read a post on the forum today that a car can make the sound mine is making if you tighten the timing belt too tight!

Haha! I had a mechanic tell me the same thing today, he said I probably tightened the timing belt too tight! My car is making the knocking/whizzing sound, ever since the last time I was messing with timing belt stuff. I can't find a timing belt tensioneer tool either, but I'm in the USA. I'll try the circlip plier thing.

I'm gonna need an expert to hear this and help diagnose my problem. And I'm broke and the damn car was up for sale. Not good.

If you set the mechanical timing so the head and the crank were timed perfectly, but the intermediate shaft for the ignition timing was one tooth off... would the car still run? I set the ignition timing with a timing light, but that was in the area on the trans that has that rubber plug I removed, didn't use it on the crank pulley mark or anything. If that was really one tooth off, did I not set correct timing?

I set the ignition timing today, and the car still is making the sound it was before just the same. :( I don't know whats going on now. I don't think its a tank of low octane fuel.

Boost is right. The car was pre-detonating under full (or near full) throttle. I am now going to undoo the bolt at the distributor and set the ignition timing again. Can off ignition timing cause pre detonation? The car has a 65 mm pulley, but wasn't pre detonating before.

The car is making a new sound now, definitely something not right, only makes it when you go wide open throttle. Any ideas?

Well I found out the problem. Turns out it wasn't the water pump. It was a bolt that had worked its way out, above the intermediate shaf--or whatever its called--pulley. I tightened it back up, and I left the water pump alone.

Yeah the water pump I got was the right one. I just took the main pulley off, nobody told me the timing belt attatches to it!!! The timing wasn't lined up cause I had no idea. I'll just put the pulley straight back on, but now how do I check the timing to make sure its right before I start the car? Where are the marks located?

Why the hell would the supercharger need to come off? Its not near the waterpump at all. And I knew there probably wasn't different pumps, but in autozone's computers they list two (even for the 1990 only year!)

Ok I have a '90 G60, my water pump has just gone bad. It didn't start leaking, but it started make a funny sound like chunks of metal being knocked around. Holding a vinyl hose in your ear against different parts confirms that it is the water pump area making the noise. I went to autozone to buy a new one, and it got to a point where he asked me what size hub the pulley piece on the pump was (20 or 30mm I believe). I didn't know, so he gave me the common item (that he had in stock) instead of the other one (that he was out of stock on). I'll check agains the old one once I get it off, and if I need the other one I will return this one and order that one. Anyway, I need a repair guids, instructions, etc for replace the water pump on these engines, I don't have anything. It shouldn't bee too hard, I've done a lot of pumps that require timing belt removal, this one doesn't LOOK hard. I tried searching but couldn't come up with any good links. Any good threads?

Ok, does the computer do anything to lower the power when the intake air temp starts getting hot? As in, are there any kind of knock sensors? As far as I knew an intercooler is going to lower the intake charge and allow for more boost without knock, but if the car isn't pre-detonating at its current boost how will upgrading the intercooler improve the power? (except for maybe slightly because its a little cooler air) Sorry, I just know more about turbo Mitsubishi's and not as much about supercharged VW's. The previous owner said it would break traction in second. I just drove it once so far and it felt pretty good, just not quite as fast as I thought it should. I had an Eclipse GSX (~200hp turbo 4) and that just felt like it had a little more power, especially since this G60 is supposed to have a lot more torque but similar HP. I'm gonna find out exactly what kind of chip is in it and about the FPR. If the chip is made for the 3.5 bar FPR would it still run right on the 3.0 bar and just get more powerful with the 3.5 bar? He seemed to think that chip was made for the FPU but it just wasn't installed yet. Also how can I acurately measure the pulley size? The diameter on the outside of the lip? From where the belt actually sits?

BBM has a 58mm pulley listed for the G60: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... &catid=262 Maybe the FPR he has to install is a 3.5 bar. Yeah its high altitude up here in Utah. Looks like I'm going to want to switch to a 65mm pulley. The chip in there is supposed to be really good, made for pretty high boost I think. What kind of wheel hp should I expect with: 65mm pulley 3.5 bar fpr chip intake supercharger outlet exhaust ? What kind of HP gains does a cam make? How does it shift the powerband? What spec cam is best? What level of boost starts requiring better intercooling? I was thinking about an air to water intercooler.

I've tried searching and couldn't find what I was looking for. I just need a few things cleared up. What's the stock G60 pulley size? What should stock boost be with a healthy charger? How many different pulley sizes are available for the g-ladder? What's the smallest one people use? What boost #'s can you expect from each one? With a pulley you also need a matching chip upgrade and FPR right? What are some good combos? The car I just bought has already been modded a bit. Right now it has a neuspeed intake, aftermarket supercharger outlet tube thing, smaller pulley (the owner couldn't remember what size), some kind of chip, a 2.5 bar FPR installed and a 3 bar FPR that he included and said needs to be installed. The seals in the charger are supposed to be new, and he says it was boosting like 10-12psi right now. Does that sound right? What size pulley would be boosting that much. He acted like it was the smallest pulley you can go, but I looked on bahnbrenner.com and I think it said the 58mm pulley boosted like 20psi or something, that really surprised me.

Well we did the complete tranny swap in 3 hours. Isn't that pretty quick? Drove the car and it feels awesome. Tranny shifts perfect, all new syncros. :)

Now I've owned two Corrados and two 3000GT/Stealths! Who else has owned more than one of a certain model car before?

Well, the buyer of my black Corrado almost has it paid off and will be picking it up soon, but today I bought another! Its a white '90 G60, got it from a friend for $2,500. Interior is perfect. Mechanically its perfect except for we're swapping in another tranny saturday that has new syncros in it. It just needs a paint job, I'm gonna be painting it silver. It has some sweet 17" rims, intake, smaller supercharger pulley, chip, aftermarket supercharger outlet, slimline fans, brand new exhaust from head back, new CV joints & suspension bushings, new motor mounts, etc. I guess he has $7K into the car, once I do the paint job its going to be near perfect in every department. Mileage says 43K and thats how it was when he bought it but he thinks it has to have more, so actual mileage is unknown, but its WAY better off in every way than my black G60 with 150K(+?) miles. So do you think I did good for $2,500? 8)

I just wanted to double check, is there any difference in transmissions that bolt up to the VR6 and G60 engines? If I imported a passat syncro from Canada what engine does the passat have and will it bolt to the G60 engine? What year ranges was the passat syncro made that I'd be looking for? If I really can do this with a car from Canada then it's much more likely that I'll try it.

Alright, besides shipping to the U.S., about how much would it cost one of you in Europe to gather the parts for an AWD conversion with a tranny that will mount to the G60 motor? I am capable of the work to install, and I might be willing to pay the shipping cost depending on the cost of parts.

Whoa whoa back the truck up, AWD Corrado!?! I want one! I can't believe I've never heard of this before. So over there in Europe some of you got different models of VW's that were called "syncro" and those were 4wd? Give me the quick rundown of the details. Can it be done with the G60 and VR6 engines? What's the possible donor vehicle(s)? What's the basic parts list (tranny, transfer case, rear differential axels & suspension, driveshaft, subframe of donor car, ???) Could I ever get what I needed for the swap shipped over to the U.S.?

Well maybe I've got to take some pictures to show you guys, I have to get some batteries for my camera. Thats about how I've been doing it, turning the tensioneer clockwise with about 90 degrees in the belt. After all that is done and you turn the engine over a few times and line up the crank pulley again, the cam pulley lines up with one of the dots (not inbetween both of the dots). If I move it another full tooth it will be more off than it is now so I think its right.