andyhudson

im after a vr6 radiator in good condition. im also after a crack pipe that just needs to be in one piece so i can use it as a template to make a stainless one. cheers andy

got my wheels up for sale there audi tt 6 spoke wheels. no tyres and they have been blasted, one wheels has curbing all the way round and all the others are good condition. these are ideal wheels as there ready to be painted saving you cash on being blasted and also have no tyres which again is handy as the tyres that come standard are a tad to wide to work on a corrado anyway. im after 120 quid. located in burnley

well one of the threaded sleeves in the rad for the top elbow has spun so looks like it a new rad. So im taking front end off and sorting that. while im there what else should i do out of good maintenance thats worth replacing to save the hassle in long run. The crack pipe has been replaced and thermostat housing but think ill swap them out for geniune ones as i didn't put genuine in when I did it, or ill make a stainless crack pipe.

messaged you!

well i decided to just try driving the car. the brakes work well and the pedal feel has got better now but not perfect. strangely it does get better and really firm from time to time. so may be master cylinder is on it way out.

bump

The place I used has all the mod cons. There a crash repair centre so have all the gear. May be its pot luck in the brand they use and how the system works.

has anyone encounted problems with there car being to low to have the tracking and camber set up, camber in particular. took it in today and there saying that to do camber both instruments on the the front wheels need to be able to see each other and its to low to allow that. i suggested taking bumper off, so ive taken it back home and whipped bumper off myself to make sure no bolts shear or car falls to bits. but im sceptical about going back now as this time ill get charged the labour in them taking bumper on and off for them just to tell me they still cant do it.

im after a roof rack, ideally a genuine one but ino there rare, so anything will do as it can put me on till a geniune one comes up for sale cheers andy

That is a really good point! I whip the pads off and chamfer them. I didn't want to replace the discs and pads yet due to upgrading front at somepoint so thought I'd do it all at once then.

I've searched and read them all and now realise its not just me that's struggled. i managed to get some form of pedal feel after a full night and as soon as i started her up there was nothing. i tried bleeding the abs nipples and master cylinder as well but its still naff. ive read that it will go better with driving but im not even at the stage where it good enough to drive. i have refurbed rear beam and mk4 calipers, i replaced the bias valve, the only thing i can think of is that the 2 lines that run from front of the car down floor pan to the bias valve are the wrong way. i plumbed it left to left ect. is this right? does the ignition need to be on as some people mention this and others don't and if the ignition does will it matter that my abs light is on or will the abs pump still work in pressurising? the sequence i have read is rear left then right front left then right abs master cylinder and have the ignition on and the bias valve so the pistons out any help please, as much detail as possible ignition on, rear jacked up, eazibleed, old school pumping ect what ever it may be

oki doki, just wondered. ill have to crack on this weekend on getting car rolling so can come up assuming you dont sell it all for 100quid

out of interest where did you plan on putting the button to open the doors?

any reason in particular you say that? what did the engine fail from that it came off?

ill proberly take the head if you still have it in a few weeks, need to get car back on wheels first then i can drive over.

completely agree with you there, its all about the corners. im just overhauling suspension now with polybushes and all new ball joints and track rod ends and i have koni coilovers. as for brakes ive replaced all the rear lines and mk4 calipers and then im looking out for something around 300mm mark for brakes

Well that's ****ed that idea up. I'd only gone off pictures so no wonder I found little information on that mod. As for over sized throttle bodies where are people sourcing them? Another engine or after market? When it comes to ITB's where do people think the main cost is? In the throttle bodies and hardware or the work involved in getting the management system to run on the car. Ive been reading up a little and its the change in management that puts me off all the hardware should be within my capability of making so making it less expensive?

So 240bhp and a similar torque figure should be a good figure to aim for. And then ill proberly assess it from there. What ill look to do then is exhaust manifold, decat and single box exhaust system, port and polish exhaust side, cams, on the inlet manifold there's a restriction up near TB on under side cut and plate that for better flow and may be the spark plug holes, lighten fly wheel if it can be done without being ruff. Stainless elbow in inlet from maf to give better flow and looks good. I'm sure I've missed something I was going to do. If I get board after all that in a few years then ill look at super charged

What was the spec on the engine? And was it a 2.8 or 2.9?

thats a real interesting point you've made there about the exhaust manifold, and if people like raceland have taken into account the different lenghts with in the head. cheers for all the links and info i think im going to have a trawl through it all and start bit by bit. think ill be sticking with the 12v though. if i do a conversion then it will a 20vt so theres more tuning options, but i doubt i will be. ---------- Post added at 5:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:55 PM ---------- thats a real interesting point you've made there about the exhaust manifold, and if people like raceland have taken into account the different lenghts with in the head. cheers for all the links and info i think im going to have a trawl through it all and start bit by bit. think ill be sticking with the 12v though. if i do a conversion then it will a 20vt so theres more tuning options, but i doubt i will be.

Not being filled with confidence here. Looks like I'm going to have to have a real think. Yeah ino torque is as important if not more important in some cases. Interesting about the porting and polishing, if I was to just do exhaust side then that will then help retain some low down power?

so what do you think is a realistic achievable figure then without going to made?

ino what your saying but i like the idea of keeping the original engine and working at that. well it depends how you chop it, and to what standard and finish you leave it at, or a new one from scratch. my trade is welding and fabricating and theres a few toys at work i can take advantage of, laser cutting, milling turning, all types of welding, press brakes, polishing equipment, rollers, blasting (both dry and wet) all sorts

no no no, i dont want to do a conversion. i want to stick with the original engine, im going for oem look. i want my car to look like it could be a standard car but tweaked to be better in all the small places which an enthusiast would notice. and as part of that look i want to stay with the same idea in the engine bay, which may lead to a slightly cleaned up bay eventually. so i suppose on that note a bmc wouldnt look all that good. ive noticed there just doesnt seem to be all that much available or done naturally aspirated. there seems to be very few options. inlet manifolds for example, every one seems to just accept they have to buy a schlrik manifold no ones really seems to have modified one or made one from scratch. im trying to gauge if theres ideas like that, that people have and see if i can put some of them into practice.

thats just a general figure i have in mind, and obviously i want more torque as well. i know that 220ish is generally easily got with cams i trying to think past that to what would be next. im after a fast road car basically, i dont want to throw money at FI as its alot of work and expensive. i basically want to make the car so it pulls instantly from bottom end and is a fast back road driver. but i like to try rengineering or engineer stuff myself so thats why im thinking of doing a custom inlet manifold and port and polishing head my self.