rs200f40

7.5Jx16" Fairly sure they're 35et, if not they'll be 30.

16" Borbet C alloys in good condition, only a few light kerb marks. 4 Stud VW fitment. Tyres are Yokohama 195/45/16 and still look like new. £450 ono Located Aberdeenshire.

Hi, Can anyone check ETKA for me and see if the two threaded studs that hold the master cylinder to the bulkhead are available as seperate parts or if they come with the master cylinder? If they're seperate could you post the part number for them please? Took my old master cyinder off and went to put the new one on and there are no studs and the holes for the studs haven't been tapped :-( Thanks Alan.

I had the same sensor on my engine, I used two of the pins for the ECU and the other two for the temp gauge. To get the temperature gauge reading correctly I wired a variable resistor between the sensor and the gauge. I then removed the sensor but left it connected to the loom and put it in a kettle, switch the kettle on and wait for it to boil. You now just need to adjust the variable resistor until the gauge reads 100, it took a while to get right as it only needs small changes in resistance to change the reading, make sure you keep turning the kettle on to keep the water at 100degC Once the gauge is on 100 get a multimeter and measure the resistance of the variable resistor. Go to the RS website and if you're lucky you might get a resistor with the exact value you need, if not you're going to need to use ohms law and try and get a combination of resistors to get as close to the resistance you need as possible. I needed three in parallel on mine but don't have a note of what they were. Once you've got the resistors put them into the circuit where you had the variable resistor and put some heatshrink over them, check the gauge using the kettle again and if you've done the sums right it should read right.

Change the spark plugs first if you haven't already done so, my 16V Golf always did the same when the plugs got too worn.

Forget about the power you're losing through the transmission. 30% of the energy from the fuel goes out the exhaust pipe, do something about that, fit a turbo.

Thanks, did think about adding a resistor but wasn't sure if the sensors were equally linear. WIll have to do a bit of testing at different temps.

Hi, Can anyone help with a water temp sensor problem? The G60 has a temp sensor for the ECU and another for the dash. The 1.8T has a single sensor but with two elements, one for dash and one for ECU. I've used the 1.8T sensor but it doesn't seem to have the correct scale to work correctly with the G60 dash. Guage was upto 110+ but water must have been 70ish as I could still put my finger in it. How has anyone whose done a G60 to 1.8T conversion got around this? Is there another temp sensor housing I can use to be able to use the original 2 G60 temp sensors? Thanks Alan.

Got it working now. The green wire only sends the signal to the ECU. The rev counter gets it's signal from a green/yellow wire from the ECU.

Thanks, will have a look but I don't remember seeing it anywhere. Would it normally be on the coil? Thanks Alan.

IT'S ALIVE :D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :D :D :D :D at least it was on the 3rd attempt. First attempt I found I had the fuel lines the wrong way round which resulted in a shower of petrol when I pulled them off to check there was fuel :( Second attempt it wouldn't turn over very well, Ignition leads were in the wrong order on the coil. I had them connected by firing order but it's actually numbered by cylinder. Third attempt and away it goes, runs perfectly. Just have to find out why there's no hot water getting to the radiator.

Hi, Can anyone confirm where the rev counter takes it's signal from in the engine bay? I thought it was the black wire on the coil and I connected that upto my DTA ecu but the rev counter isn't moving. Thanks Alan.

Do you know what's wrong with the one you have? As long as the windings are ok it will cost a lot less than that to replace the bearings and brushes if that's all that's needed.

Hi Andrew, Perfect, just what I needed to know. Thanks Alan.

Hi, I'm doing a 20VT conversion and am trying to identify some stray wires I've got left fron the G60 loom. Can anyone help with any of these? 1. Blue/White wire with a single shrouded crimp style connection. Probably for a sensor. 2. Brown/White wire with a single shrouded crimp style connection. Probably for a sensor. 3. Blue wire with a proper clip on connector (black, single socket) For alternator perhaps? 4. Red/White wire and a Red/Yellow wire with a proper clip on connector (brown, two sockets) For throttle body ? Thanks Alan.

Was going to tidyup the the sub frame and give them a good coat of paint. They look worse on the photo than they actually are.

If there's a litre of petrol in the sump then drain it all now. Petrol will wash the oil off everything in the engine, bearings etc.

Quick progress update. Front mount intercooler's in, total cost about £40 which was for the intercooler and the 63mm tubes to connect the hoses to as the original inlet and outlet were in the wrong place. Didn't need to cut any bodywork or drill any holes for it either, made up some brackets to pickup unused existing holes. Need a different radiator now, does anyone know of a radiator that has the inlet and outlet at opposite ends, rather than the G60 one which has them both on the passenger side? Thanks Alan.

Thanks, nice wheels :-)

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ sell ducting. What I did was have a look round a scrapyard and get some flexible ducting that's used for the hot air ducting behind a dashboard.

Hi, Where the fuel lines from the tank are fixed to the front suspension turret there are three pipes. The middle one is the breather pipe to the carbon cannister. Next to this nearer the front of the car there is a fuel pipe with a blue end and nearer the back another fuel pipe with a black end. Can anyone tell me which pipe would be the one from the fuel pump and which one is the return to the tank? I would just prime the pump but have no power and the looms slightly disected so wouldn't want to try powering it up anyway. Thanks Alan.

It would have been fitted with a 50mm when it left the factory.

The later 88 ones when the front windows changed had the 50mm manifold, my one did anyway.

Hi again, does anyone know what throttle cable to use for a 1.8T in a Corrado? (Throttle body on drivers side)

Only ever heard good things said about Agra Engineering http://www.agra-eng.co.uk/ Was going to get them to rebuild my G60 engine before I decided to go for the 1.8T transplant.