rs200f40

Drive flanges - £123 for 2 Driveshaft bolts - £27.64 for 12.

I'll find out next Saturday when I pick them up from the dealer and let you know. 20V Turbo, what size of boost tubing did you use? I was thinking on 2.5" but wasn't sure if 3" would be better, especially on the hot side of the intercooler.

I found a AUQ 180bhp version for £500 with all ancilliaries, turbo, downpipe, loom, etc. The gearbox was another £175. It's got 45k miles which was a bit higher than I was really looking for but at that price I wasn't too concerned. Haven't got it yet, it's going to be removed this week hopefully. Local breaker had a 225 TT engine but he wanted £1500 for the bare engine only. The turbo was another £250, I didn't hang about to find out what the rest was going to cost :shock:

Thanks, I'm sure I'll need it. I've sourced an engine now so just need to find an ECU and some other bits to get started :-)

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_post ... PN=1&TPN=2

I think I've found the right ones from a 2002 Beetle, think it's either a 2.0L or a TDI that they come from. Part number is 02A-409-355-D Does that sound right?

I take it I can use the ones from the G60 gearbox and they are a direct replacement for the 20V ones? Would I still use the same driveshafts? Thanks Alan.

Thanks for the info. To be honest 280-300bhp would be about as much as I'm looking for, this is supposed to be my sensible daily driver, I've got a Westfield for fun :-) Looks like a 150hp engine will be fine then, with a bigger turbo. Thanks Alan.

Are the 150bhp engines just as strong as the higher powered ones? If I put a IHI on would the engine internals need to be changed?

Oh well, it's only money. Anyone know a good place to find a decent engine, preferably a 225bhp TT version. I've had a look around for the last few hours but have only found 150bhp versions, mostly with high mileage.

So I shouldn't need to buy or modify anything to get it mounted in the car with the transmission working, everything I need is already in the Corrado? After that it's just a matter of plumbing and wiring to get it going?

Hi, Sorry to start another thread about 20VT conversions. I've been trying to gather information about installing a 20VT engine into a G60 Corrado. What I'm concerned about is that it appears to be an easy conversion to do and I must be missing something. Is there anyone who has done this conversion and can advise if I'm missing something really obvious, I've found the following. Transmission - Use G60 Gearbox/flywheel/linkage/driveshafts - VR6 clutch? Cooling - Use G60 radiator Use engine mounts from G60 engine Modify 20VT downpipe Change throttle body for cable operated type Keep G60 starting, charging and lighting circuits Use G60 power steering pump with 20VT pulley. Or just use 20VT pump? Use aftermarket ECU Front mounted intercooler and boost pipes Engine £1200? DTA ECU. £800 or megasquirt £200? Intercooler and piping £200 So basically the engine seems to bolt straight in with the existing transmission. Rig up a front mounted intercooler using the existing one or a larger used one. Not too many wiring nightmares as I'd just use an aftermarket ECU. Is this really all the major work there is and the conversion could be done DIY for £2000ish rather than the £5000+ some companies are charging? It can't be that easy can it? Thanks Alan.

I did the same to my Golf as daves16v did, it did seem to help the responsivness of the engine and I didn't really notice any difference in noise. Have a rummage through a scrapyard and find some flexible air ducting from behind a dashboard.

It's got around 110k miles. Haven't really decided what to do yet, am considering just breaking it up but I've just spent £450 on the MOT and had the charger rebuilt in the summer. AFAIK the chargers still ok as it turns smoothly and isn't making any strange noises. Think I may just get it rebuilt, got a rough guide price from someone that said it would cost about £2k to rebuild worstcase. So should be able to get it converted to 1840cc and get the head gasflowed for under £3k and hopefully it will last me a few years. Got some quotes for 20VT conversions but they were all £5k+.

Looks like the problem is the cam bearings are seizing, probably due to an oil supply problem which would also explain the bottom end knocking. The cam doesn't turn as smoothly as it should and the timing belt jumps teeth whenever any load is put on the engine :-(

Hi, Looks like I'm going to need an engine rebuild, was thinking about a 20VT but think I'll just stick to the G60. Since it's being rebuilt anyway is it worthwhile going for a 1900cc conversion? Is the extra torque worth the extra expence? Where's the best place to get the pistons and rings from? Any other suggested modifications to get done at the same time, already have a G-Werks Stg4 charger and smaller pulley. Thanks Alan.

Thanks for the suggestions, will try and see if they help. Thinking about the fuel blockage idea I'm not sure if this would be the problem as it appeared to be using more fuel than usual. On the last run the MFA was reporting around 22mpg and come to think of it a half tank of petrol did seem to dissapear quite quickly. Will check it out anyhow. Thanks Alan.

If only it was that easy, I'm near Aberdeen.

Hi, Has anyone got any ideas what to check to get my G60 going again, will list full sequence of events below. Started with slight missfire on WOT from 3000rpm Few days later would not accelerate at all when using more than half throttle. On full throttle it gave the induction roar but absolutely no acceleration. Next day it was struggling to maintain 60mph and only light use of the throttle gave any acceleration. Next day it was struggling to get to 30mph, slight incline on the way to work and it kept getting slower and slower until it got to the top and it died (I only drive a mile to work) I can get it to start again, it will rev from idle to about 2500rpm ish once but if I try again it just dies, no coughing or spluttering, it just stops. Called the AA and he suspected a blockage somewhere, probably the cat. Take car to mechanic, he has had a look but he's completely stumped why it won't run. He was going to remove the cat first but that obviously didn't fix it and I'd assume he's tried the usual fuel and ignition tests. I had a look at the vacuum hoses suggested on my previous message but couldn't see any problems. Doesn't mean there isn't though because come of them aren't too easy to see. Can anyone suggest what we can try next, would there be a specific vacuum hose that we should check first that could cause these problems. I did have a broken vacuum hose before and it caused severe overfueling and lots of smoke out the exhaust but there's none of that this time. Any suggestions greatly appretiated. Seriously thinking about that 20VT conversion now :(

Will check when it's light but I don't think it's going to be that, had that before and it didn't feel the same as this time. Thanks Alan.

Hi, How much roughly would a 20VT engine converion cost to have done? Not really up to doing it myself so does anyone know anywhere north of the border that can supply and fit a 20VT engine into my Corrado? Looks like my G60 may be on it's last legs, bottom end's been rattling for a while. Had a slight missfire above 4k last week which has got gradually worse this week which continued to no acceleration when pedal pushed to the floor. Now it can barely do 60 and the rocker cover/oil smells like it has exhaust fumes in it so looks like the head gasket has gone and I don't see much point fixing it with a rattling bottom end :( TIA Alan.

completey away from the VAG scene but nissan did a 1 ltr super turbo special with sumit like 130bhp, Nah mate, it was a Nissan Micra called the "super turbo" but was only turbo charged.... confused quite a few people! ;) :lol: :roll: Sorry but you're the one that's been confused :wink: The "super turbo" was fitted with a supercharger and turbo, http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/497862 The other production car was the Lancia Delta S4 but there are also quite a few Mk1 supercharged MR2's that have also had turbo's added.

Thanks All, all sorted now. Turned out to be the vacuum hose from the throttle body to the ECU that had half broken off behind the throttle body. Thanks Alan.

Thanks for the tips everyone, had a look at the SNS site and followed some of there tips. Adjusted the air temp sensor as it was well out (371 ohms, should be 500 ohms) but didn't make any difference. Unplugged blue sensor and engine ran worse so assume it's ok, taped up full throttle switch and car ran worse at lower revs. Unplugged the lambda probe and it made no difference so it looks like it's definately dead. Does anyone know if there is a generic lambda sensor that can be used and crimped to the VW connector, I hate to think what VW will charge for one. Would any 4 wire lambda sensor work? H100VW, whould I be safer to tape the switch up permanently until I get the car to a garage to get the lambda sensor changed. It's won't run well at lower revs but will it prevent the car running so rich at 2000rpm+? Thanks Alan.

Had a look at ETKA to try and find the lambda sensor and the only picture I can find shows it in the back of the exhaust manifold. Had another look at the car and felt all around the manifold and downpipes to the joint with the rest of the system and I can't find a lambda sensor or wires anywhere. Do 1991 G60's have a lambda sensor? Thanks Alan.