bighands

YEa, thats what i did, and it blew the fuse!!! thats whats worrying me slighty, that the drain is more than 10amps??

LOL yea thats it, but the new injectors dont come with any end caps, so u have to put the ones off the old injectors on, a couple were a bit loose on mine so i used some plumbers PTFE tape wound around the end to make them i tight fit, im sure it will be clear when there all laying in front of you. Bloke on E bay only has 2 left, but im sure he deals in them and where he says he only has a few is boll**ks just a sale ploy so ask him and im sure he will find another 2 from somewhere ;-)

nar there REALLY easy to do, pull them out, might be stiff but they will come (drop it nothing ment by that) and just 2 spanners, cant remember the sizes 12 and 14 rings a bell, and jut unbolt them. When you heat them up make sure u tap out as much fuel as you can or you will end up witht the situation i had with boiling fuel in the injector catching alight and giving a 5ft jet flame shooting out the end across the kitchen and setting my hand alight!!!! be warned!!! Andy Oh and you dont have to touch the engine only to lean on when pulling out the injectors!! You can see the end caps on the injectors you posted up, they kinda just tap off with heat.

i only brought 10 new fuses for the mulitmeter lol maybe pull them all and put them back in one at a time!!

Help!!

Doubt injector cleaner would do a lot TBH, use these ones. . http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MERCEDES-BOSCH-IN ... dZViewItem HUGE e bay link :-) there people i brought mine off, u have to remove the end cap bit and put them on the new ones, bit of heat does it, but cos there brass apparently ment to be better, and have a better spray pattern so im told by the lads off here!! Andy

check the air box, and pipes for splits, had same thing on mine, split opened up on acceleration closed when it started dying opened up ect ect, took me ages to work out what the hell was going on as it was well hidden!! Andy

Ditto, check e bay, there is some bloke knocking them out at £12.50 a go or try these . . . Same price slighty more postage, still £60 quid delivered from the otherside of the world in 4-5 days ;-) http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?c=5 Andy

no boot light, no amps ect just head unit and no wirring! Just weird its blown the fuse on the multi meter, with a 10amp rated fuse, thats a HELL of a drain?! Bevis jem, that sounds like a plan, cos it turns over slow compared to the golf, but still wouldnt explain the mega drain? Where was yours corroded?

No that was with the ignition off, when its running the charge is at around 13.95 volts, so good i think and if i miss out the altonator wire its around 14 dead on, so loosing a TINY bit on resistance throught that, but the battery goes flat with all the doors shut, ignition off just stitting there!?

Old thread revival time :-) I have just put the NEW multimeater i brought, between the two terminals, and it blew the fuse on 10amps?!?!?!? So does this mean i have a 10Amp plus battery drain?!? it would kind of explain the 4-5 hour charged to flat batt? Oh and the new fuses, maplin where i brought it dont have, and can only find them on the net so have to wait for them to be delivered now :mad:

Drive one . . . :-)

i think its got a hint of a Mclaren SLK in it . . ?!?! (Ducks and hides in a corner)

I didnt cut the bump stops down the first time i replaced the rear shocks, and in 9 months they failed an MOT (shocks), and when i changed them over, the bump stops were smashed to pieces and completly fooked, and im fairly sure thats the reason why the shocks failed, the bump stops were clouting the shock seal way 2 much and caused it to eventually give up!! There supposed to be a last resort to the suspension bottoming out so if its lowered, i think the bump stops should definatly be cut down, other wise you wont be getting the full suspension travel needed!!! Andy

i get 23.5 out of my temp Mk 2 golf at the moment, something definatly up with it me thinks!!! Best fix the raddo quick me thinks :cheers:

hmmm what i thought, the old engine was in a golf in the begining of its life i think? good old haynes manuals, suppose i should no better than to trust it! Cheers!!

right so i tried to bolt up the pressure plate the the torque settings given in the haynes manual (75 bs?!?!) thought that was WAY over what the little bolts could handle, but still a gingerley wound em in, SNAP :mad: So as it is i had to swap the flywheels over anyway, and as u said thought as they were off might as well weigh them, and . . 1.8= 16.8 lbs 2.0= 20.8lbs Nearly a quater lighter?!? So has this been lightened at some point in its life, or just different engines?! Oh and what torque should the pressure bolts be tightened to, really dont wanna wreck this flywheel as well, and should i use thread lock to hold the flywheel bolts back on, as only says 15lbs to torque them to, and they did have it on when removing them? Cheers!!

Ah nice! Your all good people :lol: Will put some on order next week! Got another question now, the two flywheels between the 2 engines seem different, one looks like its had some material removed, like it could be lightened? but the one on the 'new' block looks like it doenst have the material removed on the block side, here are some piccys!

so let me get this straight before i order these next week, do the merc ones, the ones that the auzzie company sell should fit the 1.8 fuel pipes, but not the 2.0?! Andy

:notworthy: So i have spent well over 3 hours searching for that, ok i think i can deal with putting the slit down it myself but yea thats the stuff im looking for!! Nice tidy engine bay here i come . . . 1 down . . . Cheers fella :-)

Oh god! Thought some place like that would do it, just cant find it, u no if its available in just plain ol black?! Actually done quick search for it and its not the stuff, its made up of like lots of bits, not one complete tube if u get us, but close :-)

Well theres going to be! Thought i should start thread as im in the middle of rebuilding the 2.0 conversion and already bit worried at the complete lack of front of car and boxes of new and old parts i have stacked around everywhere :roll: But im sure i will get my head around it all! Soooo a few questions to start . . 1, Does any one no where i can get this kinda plastic corrugated split tubing stuff from in the U.K as need to replace the oil caked knackered stuff thats sort of left around the power steering pipes, and was also thinking it would be good to tidy up all the cables under there as well http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/colored.html 2, Is it the bolt off a DX engine code i need for the bottom timing pully as this is the one i have, with a small amount of locktight? remember hearing storys of stretch bolt snapping ect 3, what spark plugs should i use, as dunno if i should use 1.8 or 2.0 ones as its a KR head ect? that wil do till i think of some more!! Andy

Thats good, for a U.K company, and another pound cheaper than the austrailian company, Look after the pennys . . .

Gutted mate, least u have your health tho!!! So is this going to be broken now its a write off . . .!?! :-)

Ah ive been holiday the past week so only just seen this! Nice one fella, havent got round to even ordering these yet as the engineers STILL have my head, 4 weeks now, no i said there was no rush but?!? But nice to have one less bill for when i can start putting the big jigsaw back together!! Looks like these could be proper bargin, im chuffed about that as this is actually one of the biggest expenses in rebuilding everything!! Suprising what half hour scouting around for cheaper things can turn up!!