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I've been known to " quick fix" these with "chocolate strip" electrical connectors... Think you can still get the cables though. Whip the seat out of the car. tilt forwards. prise the row off bent over spurs up to let you get the fabric off them at the bottom There's then room to get in to wherever the break is, and join the 2 bits back together. (they normally break near the bottom) To replace the cable, you're likely to have to pull the seat cover up more to get better access.

No reason why you shouldn't use the conventional numbers for tracking and camber. 205's a standard tyre width, so the only potential issue is arch/tread clearance needing more -ve camber due to the spacers. At "only" 35mm lower, I'd be looking to roll arches (or use smaller spacers) rather than introduce out-of-tolerance camber if there's an issue with arch/tread.

I've used a magnetic bubble gauge from Frost Restoration for years on all our cars. You CAN do it with the car jacked up, but you need to support the car and the hub (and might need a mate to sit on the top of the slam panel(!) ... i'll explain: Make a note of the centre height of the hub, and a note of the ride height of the car (where you measure to doesn't matter - it just needs to be repeatable.) 1: Jack up car, remove wheel. 2: The car will now be too high, so lower it a smidge on the jack. 3:Jack/chock/whatever under the hub (the further outboard you do it, the better) to get the hub centre sitting at the same height as it did when the wheel was on. 4: Lower the car on the jack till the ride height is the same as it was when you started. ... This is where you may need the mate to sit on the front, as depending on your suspension choices, the car may not be heavy enough to compress the spring far enough to get to ride height. (sounds weird, but will make sense when you're doing it!) 5: Set camber. (being careful not to knock your jack/chocks out from under the hub!) The reading on the gauge will be the same as when the wheel's back on. 6: Raise car, remove jack from under the hub, refit wheel, lower car, bask in a glow of excellence.

Red C on the old Ashby to Coalville road a few days ago - I flashed and waved.

Do it. ...But do it with the anticipation of it needing some work - so don't spend all your money on buying it! That's the best advice I can give you.

that'd make sense - there're 4 wires to it.

... A couple of hours saw it all piled up in the garage. Thankfully, a lot of the features hadn't been wired up, so wasn't a big job to whip it off. All the dash panels have had that much silicone cleaner on them, I was struggling to keep hold of the screwdriver by the end! I was worried it had a backup battery, but no sign of such a thing - just whacked it in valet mode from the remote, disconnected the car battery then started unplugging/soldering. Upshot is I can now use the car (handy!) and everything I've done's been soldered and heat shrunk. ... Got rid of LOADS of insulating tape!

If it were just a case of wanting a code, I'd be straight on to a dealer. As I've got the issue of the random failing to respond to the remote (both remotes, both with new batteries!) I'm edging towards ripping it all out. Should I be leaving the battery disconnected for a while before starting the removal? (or any other procedure I ought to know about?)

Any advice on this one please! Our recent 'rado purchase has a Clifford Concept 600 fitted. It's now started randomly not responding to the remote. That would be fine, but I don't have the code to disarm it using the button inside. This left me sitting outside the pet shop with the engine running the other day whilst the Mrs went in to buy stuff, as I daren't switch it off as it would auto arm, and might not let me back in! I've got a printout of the manual. On reading that, I thought I'd able able to program a new code and disable the auto-arming bit. Snag there is that it won't let me do that, even with it in valet mode, as I need to enter the old code 1st! (no point asking the previous owner - the alarm was a mystery to him - he said as much!) I'd happily take it off and throw it away, at least I could dare to drive it then! Am I likely to be safe (not ending up with an alarming car hacking the neighbours off!) if I disconnect the main battery and just go for it?

Is there anywhere in the housing where you're getting the sound from the back of the speaker through the front? If so, sealing there'd be the 1st thing to do. I've not looked at how they're mounted in the corrado yet, but in passats (amongst others!) there's a ring of soft foam (like big draught excluder) round the outer edge of the housing to nominally prevent phase cancellation. If the corrado uses a similar design, any break down of that foam'll cause bass problems. Just a thought.

From what's already been said, it looks like a set of mk3 golf ones'd be worth investigating. B3 and B4 passats are getting a bit rare in breakers yards these days. Always worth whipping yours out and investigating the actual fault though, as a bit of creative bodging might sort it!

Wullie: Nice! I have considered just leaving it, seeing what my MOT guy says, (plead ignorance if he flags it up!) and if i need one, it looks like there're a couple on ebay with 2 year warranties... I use the same MOT place every time, for all the cars, he's (relatively) cheap, and seems totally fair... It's one of those things where I WANT an honest test - I want everything "right" and as a DIY spanner-er, it's easy to miss stuff that he'll spot easily on the ramp!

Our recently purchased 1994 2L 8V has been de-catted. As I understand things, last year that was an MOT advisory, and this year it'll be a fail. ... So I'll be in the market for a new cat. My Dad (an avid reader of Honest John's column in the Telegraaarrfff) has flagged up that a lot of cheap aftermarket cats are exhibiting VERY poor life expectancy (barely a year in some cases!) So... What have you got fitted? How long has it lasted? Who supplied? I obviously don't want to fork out for a cheapie cat that'll die before it's next MOT, and can't help but anticipate big bucks for a dealer item!

These were standard on late 8 valve corrados... I'm not aware of them on anything else... Anyway, it's a set of 4 with 4 legal 205/50/15 tyres: A matching pair of Goodyear Eagles, which are both worn close to the indicator (but obviously still legal) 1x "triangle" something or other with loads of tread left, but loses pressure over a week - not noticed anything stuck in there so I assume it's just a rim seal - I'll get my guy to sort it if I get a chance. 1xPirelli Drago P5000, again, loads of tread. The wheels themselves are in reasonable condition - the car drove well on them, there's a bit of curbing, but only to the rim, and they have hammer-on weights on the outside (I could try the big sell on this "rare, period feature", but I won't bother!) Picture 2 shows the 1 wheel which the paint has peeled off from. Worst bit: Tyres: Goodyear eagle #1: Goodyear eagle #2: Triangle: Pirelli Drago: So that's it - Plonk them on and drive, sell a car on them, pretty them up and run them - the choice is yours. Looking for £80 (with the slow leak fixed) collected from Coalville, LE67 I don't really want to muck about with couriers but I might be able to get them somewhere near you as I have a mate who's a white van man who's often down south/in Wales

Just repaired mine with a bit of ingenious plastic welding (direction dial) where the pivot housing for the "underneath" arm had broken, and the cam snail had broken on the underside of the gear. ... Anyway, I had some spares off a 6n polo ('94 - '99) which are tantalisingly close looking, but 1 of the cams is "backwards", so are NOT interchangeable! Just thought I'd flag this up, as scrapyards are full of them at the moment! ---------- Post added at 9:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:01 AM ---------- Just repaired mine with a bit of ingenious plastic welding (direction dial) where the pivot housing for the "underneath" arm had broken, and the cam snail had broken on the underside of the gear. ... Anyway, I had some spares off a 6n polo ('94 - '99) which are tantalisingly close looking, but 1 of the cams is "backwards", so are NOT interchangeable! Just thought I'd flag this up, as scrapyards are full of them at the moment!

Good news then. Excellent. Cheers for that. Not used to having numbers on the gauge - just mk1s and mk2s pointing "a bit under 1/2 way up"

Common problem for mk1/2 people: If you don't want to split the lights: Remove from car. Remove bulbs/wires. Go to sink. Pour in warm water and washing up liquid. Pour in rice. Really. Uncooked obviously - don't need a lot - couple of spoonfulls. Put hand over the opening where the bulb goes. Shake. Drain the water/rice out. Rinse with cold water (cold shifts the bubbles quicker) Dry on radiator/airing cupboard overnight. Re-fit. Admire. If they're fogging up, rather than just going milky, you'll want to run another bead of sealant round to stop the damp getting in.

Just done the smart thing, and swapped our '03 polo for a '94 2L 8V 'rado to add to the fleet (mk1 cab, mk2 8V GTI 5 door and B4 passat TDI wagon) It's a lovely car... 175K miles, been local for most of it's life, original paint, interior looks like a 70K... Everything works, waxoyl's running out of the body. And it's in met grey/violet, which we like! Anyway... It's been standing over the winter, and the drive home showed the temp gauge reading VERY low, so I went straight on with oil, filter, air filter, flushed the engine and rad with the garden hose, new thermostat, new coolant, new temp sender. With that sender, it was running at just over 70 degrees. SO... yesterday I bought another, changed it outside the shop, then drove home. That's reading just under 80 degrees... With an 87 degrees thermostat, I'd expect the gauge to read something like that... Am I right here? Or chasing rainbows? Cheers in advance. Think I'll like it on here!