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You'll struggle to fit anything BIGGER in the stock locations (especially behind stock grilles) I've just fitted some JBL plate speakers in the back of ours, but it wasa real pig of a job - I wouldn't recommend it! I'd go for good quality components and 4x6"s in the standard size, then consider a active compact sub hidden in the cabin or built in to the boot. Recommended brands? I'm a low budget kind of guy - I always buy 2nd hand mid range brands - but can't fault Alpine, and have recently had some good results from Kenwood stuff. Most commonly recommended for a higher budget seems to be Focal.

Well... "and that'll be the audio DONE" Except I spotted a bargain pair of JBL "power series" P6452 4x6"s for sale...Like these: [ATTACH=CONFIG]76496[/ATTACH] They did NOT like going in in the standard position - The magnets clear the rear shock top mounts by mm even after a whole lot of cutting to get them in at all(!) Upshot is they're in, sound nice, but I can't recommend them for the application! so I've removed the 6x9"s and popped a painted blanking panel in the shelf till an "advantageously priced" uncut grey shelf pops up... And all being well a VR6 steering wheel'll be going in shortly. (only because the original is suffering the "grip wind-up" issue)

If you run into trouble shifting the cables, a squirt of WD40 round where it goes into the tube in the floorpan, then grip it in a mole wrench, and give it a tap with a hammer. I've never had one on any old VW that doesn't shift with that treatment.

Squirt WD40 into the lock. Leave for a few mins to penetrate, then try the key again. As above, it should turn 90 degrees leaving it locked and allowing you to get the key out.

Interested as long as there's no tendency for the grip to "wind up" round the internal steel.

A bloke did the same trick to my B4 passat last winter - slid his toyota into it in the snow - dented the door, mangled the wing, scuffed the front wheel. Not being too fussy about the appearance of the passat, I bought a 2nd hand wing, knocked the worst out of the door then filled it, rattle canned the door and ultimately flogged the wheels, scuffs and all(!) Again, I was insured, he was insured, but I KNEW they'd write the car off - He reckoned he'd drop some cash round (he never did) but I still reckon I ended up better off than if I'd claimed. I never rang my insurance company. I refuse to give them any ammunition to rob me of any more money each year!

run the engine when you bleed. (don't ask me why it makes a difference, but it certainly seems to!) After that, it should just be a few applications of the footbrake to get the piston out to it's operating range.

I've had the wires broken right next to the plug on the gearbox on a few VWs. Worth checking.

31 and had it for just a few months.

+1 on what the others have said- (though I'm "only" 6'2") It's the seating position that makes it possible... If you're happy with lots of gangsta-lean, it's no problem, if you want a smidge less lean, look for a non-sunroof car - it gains you an extra couple of inches.

Anyone have a pair of rear coilover helper springs (and the adapters to go with them)? 2 1/4" I.D. to go on a pair of TA teknix to get me through the winter in the passat! Cheap and posted or near Leicester/Derby would be ideal! Cheers.

^ I'd agree with that. The only thing that "knows" if the boot's open is the boot light switch, so it's either that, or they've fitted a separate Clifford switch (like the bonnet one) The boot light switch switches earth though (from memory)- just thought I'd flag that up!

I also had a clifford when I got mine... Quit and ripped it all out in the end! What problems do you have?

Update time: Got hold of a set of 2nd hand local bargain Kenwood components for the front. Tweeters are a bit loud, but I'll pop some resistors in to cure that - Then that'll be the audio DONE (though I've got a work in progress on a sub grill... It'll be a while into the future before that gets pic worthy though!) I fixed the rear wiper motor (which had never worked - turned out it was just seized... Bit of a wangle to get them out with the spoiler mech still in place, but after a drowning in WD40 and a few strategic taps with a hammer, it sprang to life... Left it running on the battery charger till the ammeter stopped dropping, then re-fitted. Most importantly, I painted the wheels and put VW centre caps on! We took it over to the Skegvegas show over the summer - Nothing to report other than 43.something to the gallon on the way over there... It'll be coming off the road for the winter (not till they start gritting/salting though!) ... so it needs somewhere to live... So we've chopped the back out of the garage, fitted doors, and I'm well on with making a car port (2 afternoons, me and my helpful mate - stopped work late, hence the gloomy photo!)

Yep - standard is just operated off the key though - the system is electrically pumped pneumatic. The pump is in the boot on the back edge of the driver's side wheel arch. Your clifford could either be wired into the standard system, or I've heard of fitters that don't understand it retro fitting electric actuators instead/as well as the pneumatic setup(!)

excellent! cotters are a pliers job - bend the ends together and as straight as you can, then either needle noses through the "loop", or small screwdriver/punch/whatever (which you can give a tap with a hammer if it's tight!) ... then remove castle washer and the big nut (shouldn't be tight) then the washer, and the disc should come off, bearings and all.

For what it costs, buy yourself a camber gauge - a lot of garages don't even have them,(most modern cars don't have the adjustment) so they'll do tracking and leave the camber alone... It's practically impossible to reliably change struts, top mounts, bottom ball joints, wishbone bushes etc on these cars without altering the camber. They're a bit of a wangle to use as a DIY-er on the driveway, (lots of jacking the car up/taking wheels off - maintaining the ride height and hub height with the wheel off is tricky!) but at least you can set it up how you want it if you've got one!

They just screw onto the end of the alternator (2x M4 machine screws - X head on Bosch, - on Valeo - dead easy! Life's easier with the alternator removed for the sake of 2 bolts!

I've just sorted this exact issue on our mk2... I've cleaned up and re-seated the big earth cable onto the engine and chassis and changed the voltage regulator on the alternator. (£10 off ebay!) ... The voltages measured OK before, but the brushes (part of the regulator) were well worn (down to about 1/2 the length of the ones on the new regulator). All appears well after that!

Only a couple of bits of anecdotal evidence from me: I had a mate with a mk2 scirocco (1.8 8V carb) which he was doing 30K a year in (car was 20 years old 120 odd K on the clock when he got it) He flushed it a few times in quick succession, (using a light machine oil) till the oil came out clean. He then went on to service every 10K as normal - no problems occurred and the oil was pretty much clean each time he changed it! A neighbour had a Mondeo - L reg petrol... He used Forte flush each service and had it for years. It was a VERY healthy engine - no smoke, no trouble, sounded as good as day 1 when he scrapped it due to rot! I've only ever flushed 1 engine - 1st service on my 1st car, a 1L mk3 polo. Again, no problems despite a HARD life for a few years (loading up with HEAVY band gear etc) Since then, I've been changing the oil and filter twice a year regardless of (low) mileage (except the mk1 that's off the road for winter each year)... All the 8vs we've got/had have 2-3 seconds of tappet noise which quietens as soon as the oil gets round.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75834[/ATTACH] the hose looks like that... so yes, the nut is part of the hose and rotates with it. I crack the hose loose, then remove the calliper and spin it off the end of the hose. (the rotating union is on the "car end" of the flexi hose - best left alone till you need to change the flexi!) Handbrake cable: You should be able to pull (or lever with a screwdriver or similar) the lever enough to detach the cable from the lever, then pull the cable outer clear of its housing (likely to be rusted in, so a mole wrench round it and a back and forth unscrewing motion to release it) Aren't the carrier bolts allen head? Hammering a hex bit in before trying to turn it tends to give me the best success rate.

Sold and gone. Thanks.

haha thanks! It came with the car, and I just don't like them.... I can see their legitimate use if you've got pristine paint and need to protect it on route to shows etc, or to cover an odd annoying stone chip or something, but ours has original paint, and plenty of chips the bra doesn't hide(!).. Upshot, I'd rather it went to someone who will use it rather than it sitting in the garage till I get annoyed with it years from now and bin it!

Excellent. I'll do that now. So... Sold Pending... Will confirm when it's physically gone. Cheers.

Looking like these are £35 new, so how about this for £15 collected from Coalville, LE67, or can post at cost. As you'll gather, it's in good nick - It's not been fitted to the car while we've had it, (I cleaned it and plonked it on the car to take the pictures, then straight off again - really not my thing!) so the crinkles you see in the pics'll come out once it's been fitted for a while.