kebabman

Yeah drill 'em, they'll easily be as light then :lol: Would be interesting for someone to weigh a standard caliper + disc, and a brembo caliper + disc......so who fancies taking their car apart in the name of science? :lol

It's the cast iron discs that are heavy, and the relationship between radius and volume is squared (treating the discs as a cylinder, Pi*R^2*depth), so it doesn't take much of an increase in size for a large increase in mass.

kevhaywire, fair enough, just trying to understand mate. I really honestly believe the standard brakes are adequate for 99% of people is all, I don't know how you manage to get them to fade so much :shock: But I'm not criticising anyones driving here, sorry if it sounded like that. :wink: Your cash, your car, you spend your money how you want, not trying to tell you otherwise. Free country and all that :D

But stop quicker and in a more controlled manor. I doubt it produces much extra wear compared to downshifting at high RPM anyway ;)

If you're happy with them, that's great but I don't personally feel they are quite good enough. Maybe my master cylinder is worn but most VRs I've driven feel the same. Jump in a G60 and you nearly go through the screen with the same pressure and it's that initial stronger bite that inspires more confidence. The VR's brakes are good at scrubbing higher speeds off though. They just feel great around town. Hmm so your upgrading your brakes so they feel better around town? :? (I'm assuming you missed a don't from the end of your post?) Why are G60 brakes better than VR ones? And does anyway actually push the clutch in when they brake!!? (refering to above post) One of the first things my driving instructor taught me was to use the engine braking to your advantage :roll: As I said yes I am happy with mine bar the pedal movement, and yes, each to their own, but I really do feel it's primarily a cosmetic/'ooo look at my cool big brakes' conversion ;) Do you do lots of trackdays Kevhaywire? I can see it might be worth it if you do....

Here's my favorites :) Can you tell I had Koni TA's fitted between the first two and the second two? :lol:

Can't understand why people are slagging off the standard VR brakes, I've got VW discs and M1144 pads and it's an awesome combo. Have done a couple of track days with them now, they have great bite and only once did I get them to fade at all. My only gripe is there is too much peddle movement, apart from that I can't see how you can need more than the standard set up on the road.....except for looks of course :lol:

I haven't noticed any problems with the MFA's reading of the outside temp.....might be headlight washers as I didn't know we had them until just now :oops: so maybe they're not working :lol: Will try and get a picture of the offending plug, easier than describing it. Cheers for the advice so far lads :)

We have headlight washers!? :oops: I fitted H100VW's loom and it is very good, one comment I would make is that I didn't like using spade connectors to connect headlights, was worried they would fall out and the lights would go out at just the wrong time :roll: Anyway sorted it with two new original clip in connectors, some cutters, solder and some insulating tape, so they're clipped in now. You might want to make this modification to the uprated loom before fitting it if like me you are paranoid ;)

Just fitted an uprated headlight loom to my VR, and while I was under the car I noticed a 3(maybe 4)pin yellow plastic plug that was just hanging down by wires in the driver side bumper recess. It's on the far side infront of the wheel. Anyone know what this is and if it's supposed to be connected? Haven't noticed any problems and all the lights work. :? Cheers :)

Just to add to this, what are the advantages of going for two driver side arms? I went for one driver side (part no. V6X2 998 406) and one passenger side (part no. V6X2 998 405) and they fit fine, and seemlingly without any of the bonnet/screen edge clearence issues that people have mentions throughout this thread. :?

All the part numbers you need are in this thread ;) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=153

RE720s have a MUCH stiffer sidewall that the Toyo's, prepare to be impressed 8)

Sorry, missed the word 'early', I'll just go off into the woods and shoot myself now. :roll:

Sure it says 55mph in my owners manual though :? I'll check tonight ;)

I recommend Bridgestone's Potenza RE720, great tyre, better than the F1's IMO :)

My 94 L VR6 comes up at 55mph, and goes down at sub 10mph. :?

Just done this, used slightly different parts to everyone else so thought I'd report my findings. I bought 1x 6x2998406 and 1x 6x2998405, so that's a passenger and a drivers side arm + blade. Cost £40.79 inc VAT purchased from VW Motorworld, Kidlington, and were a straight swap, passenger side blade doesn't catch as all. Very pleased with the results 100% improvement! Cheers for the advice lads 8)

Cheers lads, it was a dash out job on the 306 so i had assumed it would be on the corrado. :( I'm pretty sure it is the matrix though, the water doesn't smell much, but it has that silky texture to it that coolant does.....also I can't see any other wet spots where it could've come through :? 30hours! Looks like i have next weekend planned then :x

Right I think the heater matrix on my VR6 has gone :cry: Losing coolant slowly but steadily, windows mist up very easily, and wet passenger footwell. I've change one on a 306, and it was a BITCH of a job, how bad is it on the corrado? Any tips much appreciated! :(

Anyone recommend somewhere (other than a dealers) to get a 4-wheel alignment done around Oxford? How much should I expect to be paying?

Let us know if the allignment sorts it please mate :)

Well it was fine before I had the new susp fitted, so I stuck with the standard bushes and just put new top mounts and bump stops in. I have just bought a couple of new speedlines so I thought it might be them, but that's ruled out now because I've swapped the backs (which are my original fronts) to the front and it still does it :? It's not like I'm "fighting" the wheel, i don't feel any noticable force, it's more like the steering wheel has been taken off and put back a couple of splines off centre...if you see what i mean :?

Nope checked pressures first as I'd experienced that happen before! But thatnks for the suggestion :) The bloke reconed that one of the belts in the tyre was slightly off centre, so swapped the backs to the fronts, but it's still doing it :( I watched him do the tracking, 0 deg toe in, -1.2deg camber, which from searchs on here seems right! It definitly pulls to the left though, on roads where I KNOW it didn't before, it's not a lot, I have to hold the steering wheel 5-10deg to the right to compensate (and you know how much slak there is at the centre on a VR's steering! So i recon it's more like 1-2deg), if i let go, it starts to turn to the left :?

Have a similar problem with mine, just had the same suspension set up as you fitted, now my car pulls to the left slightly as if the trackings off....but I've taken it back and they've checked it and it's on 0deg's...they don't know what's wrong, any ideas? :(