kebabman

Not sure which parts you are wanting pics of mate? What don't you get....? The cage fits on the inside of the hub, it's just press on, and the sensor fits through from the back of the carrier(?) and sits just above it. This is on a VR again. It's pretty easy to change it all once the hub/disk is off.

Nah....why would ze Germans use imperial measurements? Especially when every other bolt on the car is metric! I'm sticking with the 'cheap ass spanner' explanation. :lol:

Do you mean the cage or the actual sensor? I've got pics of the various bits (rear only) on a VR if that's any help?

Sounds good! How much does the complete 'kit' cost?

Defo a 22mm spanner, although my probes apeared to be 22.1mm as it wouldn't quite fit, but 23mm was way too big, so I used a file and modified the spanner slightly :lol: ...that's probably just my cheap ass spanner though ;) Mine came out without too much persuasion but I did give it a good soak with plusGas before hand. Tips: I found the best angle to put the spanner at was about 4 O'clock (looking up towards the front of the car from underneath), with the spanner angled down the side of the exhaust. It's tight, but it gives you just enough leaverage to get it loose so you can remove it by hand. The plug fits into a bracket next to the driverside engine mount, unplug the ECU side (plug with spring clips) from above then tap the lambda plug out with a small hammer, it slides out towards the wheel side. Then just a case of following the wire back to the lambda and cutting the cable tie that holds the wire out of the way. While you're at it it's a good idea to check the state of the wires going into the top plug, one of mine has almost worn through and needed re-soldering (probably that not the lambda that was broken actually, 44.50 well spent there ) Remember to copper grease up the thread on the new one, good luck, it's not a hard job just fiddly. :)

I've got this one, and (once I'd plugged it in properly :oops:) it has worked perfectly on my mid-94 VR. 8) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 19175&rd=1

Are 288's a big improvement over the standard VR brakes? Let us know how you get on :)

Sorry I did say it was a hard to describe noise, 'wooot' is the best I could come up with :lol: I'm thinking it's the friction plates as well.....it happens right on bite, and the way I can prolong it seems to indicate it's them. It's not annoying enough to change the clutch and that sounds like it's probably the only fix :roll:

I don't get any creaking or clicking noises that I've noticed, it's just this metallic 'woooot' noise (sorry, can't describe it any better :lol:) on take-up in first. As said it doesn't affect the function, it's just annoying and I'd like to know what causes it...not enough to buy a new clutch though ;)

biggerbigneil, I have this exact same noise on my '94 VR as well! No clutch slippage, no problems shifting, just a (difficult to describe) noticable 'woooooot' noise on pull-away in first. I find it's worse if I pull away gently and lift the clutch slowly, almost like it's the friction plates themselves making the noise as they start to engage. I've had it since I got the car 18months ago and haven't noticed any problems, but if you find out what it is let us know as it is a touch embarressing on occasion :roll:

There's a list of forum users who have VAG-COM and are willing to read fault codes in a thread somewhere. I'm in Oxford and have one if you can use if you're nearby, it's OBD style so will only work on post '94 VR I believe :)

It runs smoother at idle, but that might be the fuel filter as I changed that at the same time. Was hoping for a small increase in economy but doesn't seem to have happened... :roll: Being honest, the only real difference when driving is the lack of a fault code on VAG-COM. :lol: GSF seem cheaper than those people, on that link they want £74.03 for a direct replacement item, the GSF version (also no cutting required) is £44.50, all be it not made by Bosch. ;)

GSF lambda sensor came complete with approprate plug and heat wrap, and included a couple of ties and a small sachey of copper grease. Pretty pleased with that for £44! Anyway, cheers for the advice lads, and for future reference of others my '94 VR required a 22mm spanner to remove the lambda ;)

All done, bit of a pain getting the ABS cages off, but managed it in the end without damaging them. Cheers for the tips guys :)

Hmm everything engine related for he VR is out of my price range.....so I think a set of Yoko 059 cut-slicks for my spare speedlines, and save the rest for trackdays....oh and the repairs that inevitably follow :lol:

Does anyone know what torque to do the hub nut up to....in the porter manual I have it seems to say 210nm then slacken it off by 1 notch? But Roger Blassberg says little more than finger tight? Don't want it to fall off but don't want to do it too tight either :?

Mine varied between 5.8 and 6degrees, I didn't see any of the low or high figures you are describing. ;)

Didn't think I'd seen much of the Mi16 on track....guess that's why i'm in none of the vids :roll: How's the VR Joe? Any progress? Too fast in and ran wide off the dry line, didn't think it was going to go in such a big way and hence was a bit slow correcting...the rest, as they say, is history. :lol:

Thanks for the advice, and will endevour to use the search more thoroughly next time sorry ;) It's the interior passenger handle that's rattling....so that means door card out? :(

Ah right, well guess I may as well get the right tool for the job....the shopping list grows. :lol: Cheers for the advice lads :)

A windback tool? Where can I get one of them? Seem to remember a screwdriver doing the job on my 306 :?

Wow that is a nice looking Corrado! What door handles are they? 8)

Right will buy some bearings then! Cheers Gavin 8)

It's ice grey violet. I've got a rieger grill with the eyebrow spoiler part colour coded already....didn't want the grill part coded though thought it would look OTT. Hadn't thought of the headlight surrounds...interesting, will have a look in kevhaywire's gallery cheers :)

Well cleared the fault codes a few times and they keep coming back so I've bought a GSF oxygen sensor. I've got access to a pit fortunately, has anyone got any tips on replacing it? I've not done one before but know where abouts it is....is there an easy way to feed the wire back to the ecu(if that's where it goes?) ? Cheers :)