taks

Well done mate. Opens the 24v up for a quick weekend swap for some 12v owners.... Would be interested to see the results from stealth

Looking on a2 resource G1/10 maybe? What engine was in your car originally

Can you remind us of the faults you clear down? I got mine working.... the sound made it all worth it :-) [video=youtube_share;mUoMcymmDTA]

Just between those rpm's in any gear? Or just whilst coasting down? ---------- Post added at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 AM ---------- Sounds correct, front ends on now so cant take a snap. Is your plunger doing it's thing?

Nice! did you ever get the vagcom to read block 66?

Clutch Switch 1 - to ECU Pin 39 2 - ignition live feed ( I used the yellow black wires that go behind the dash) Brake switch: 1 - Permanent live (CE2 Block E pin 4) 2 - Ignition live (same as clutch) 3 - To ECU pin 55 4 - To ECU pin 56 and brake lights (CE2 Block E pin 3 (Red/Yellow))

Hiya The engine does not need to be running. When you look at block 66 there are a load of 00000000's If running the clutch switch; when you press the pedal down you will see an output of 0000000100 When you press the brake (If the 4 wire brake switch was installed you would see 000000000011 Scenarios: 1. If you have 000000000000111 That means the ECU thinks you have the clutch and brake pedals engaged. If it does then there is definite improvements coming your way by rectifying this 2. If you have 000000000000's then pin 55,56,39 have been given 12v somewhere in you wiring or possibly as you say you don't need it (but I doubt it as the car I was in had both a clutch and a 4 post brake switch). I am sorry I have not looked at the AUE, but I will google it when I get out of this meeting ---------- Post added at 11:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 AM ---------- Ok when I am doing a parts check i can find listing for the AUE clutch switch (same as the BDE and the BFH) But someone else may need to confirm as I have not seen it with my own eyes...... Also thanks Kevin..... The plumbing in of the second oil pressure sensor got my buzzer to stay quiet Temp sensor moved to a mocal inline adaptor after retapping to m10x1

Wicked!! I got a feeling the BDE is looking for the clutch and brake switch. When changing gears at hi RPM do the revs momentarily hang on then it slightly over revs? Get VAG com and check: Clutch switch operation: Block 66 Engaged :100 Brake switch operation: Block 66 Engaged:011 If disengaged there will be a block of 0's Going through my pics on my phone: brake switch pin3 to ecu is white/yellow (pin 55) brake witch pin 4 to ecu is red/black (pin 56) Clutch switch pin 1 to ecu is white/red (pin 39) Actually I am certain it does. I took the plugs out of 4motion at the scrap yard

Also make sure the clutch and brake pedal are wired in. It was a common thought that just 12v them was a way to tell the ecu that the were disengaged (which is true) but those particular parameters have a timer on so when the ECU detects no change in either clutch or brake for x amount of time it goes retard (feeling flat) then starts the timer again. I am in contact with a highly regarded ECU engineer who is going to map this out for me eventually but a quick fix of setting this time to infinity did not work. He is on the case though so I will update. ---------- Post added at 4:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:03 PM ---------- Dear VR Owner 85 Can you add to your diagram: Pin 3 Brake switch to pin 55 Pin 4 Brake switch to pin 56 Pin 1 Clutch switch to pin 39 Might help people out Thanks

Cool we will pick this up then. Have you any one near you with a copy of VAGCOM to help? The output(s) from that will really help to troubleshoot the lack of power at the top end (if it's not the high temps and no air filter like you say)

They don't have them listed. But if quote them this part number they can find you one: 1H0 919 563

Maybe 20vtvw can answer a few of the questions..... New oil sensor from GSF- they got them in stock. VAG do not have them at the moment

have they used the 12v oil filter housing? and 12v oil to water cooling exchange unit?

130 degrees!! too hot especially for 24v What engine code is the 24v? What oil cooler system has been installed? Where is the temp sensor located? Have you vagcom? if so what were the faults?

Dealer told me last week the don't have any oil temp sensors and they won't be able to get hold of any either GSF have a load and they had the VAG part number in the side of it too

Brilliant! I will back the temp sender out and put the black high pressure sensor in attaching the yellow wire. I bought a mocal inline connector (to or from the sandwich plate) which has a hole in it. I will just pop it in there. I just really want to keep an eye on the temps as this is to be a track car Will the high pressure sensor be ok side on?

Can't see why a mk4 pedal wouldn't work with a mk5. I have a mk5 pedal working with a mk4. The dsg pedal switch on the mk5 pedal is a dumb plunger. There is no wiring into it. You get 100% whilst resting on it and nothing more when you depress it. I checked it also by sticking my head into the 2012 TT i have with dsg and it is the same. Thank you for your info on the chains. It was the first I had done and I was very paranoid :-) The block 91 I will research more to gauge it's relevance but I was so happy with everything working and when I got a desired output from it, it gave me the ability to keep my one man Mexican wave going for longer. I only had two holes in the r32 oil housing (Unless there is another I have missed?) So I installed low pressure (brown sensor) and temp, leaving high pressure out. It's the only thing right now that is playing on my mind whilst stuck at the office

Hopefully I worked out the oil issue. I think when my oil stat opened it dropped the oil level hence the issues with pressure. Fingers crossed topping that above the max level ever so slightly will cure that. From what I understand all petrol DBW pedals operate the same in the mk4. I don't think matching pedal and ecu is really critical. I am using a mk4 r32 ecu (CP) with a BDE pedal loom, Then a pit of jiggery pokery into a mk5 throttle plug and it terminates on a mk5 dsg pedal. It works fine. I should have noted the measuring block I used to check its operation going from 0-100% through the pedal motion

Kevin thanks It is a BFH I checked my engine timing by going to block 91 on check it was at 0.0 degrees http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timing-checking-with-vag-com__o_t__t_21169.html Clutch switch operation: Block 66 On:100 Brake switch operation: Block 66 On:011 Timing chain stretch: 208 and 209: Although my chains are spanking new it is showing -1 and -4, within in tolerance but was hoping for a 0.0 And VSS going from the gearbox to pin 54 then to the clocks works fine. New issue I have corrado clocks and and a golf vr6 low pressure sender connected and it is triggering the buzzer. I turn the ignition into position 2 and the light is flashing, start the the car and the light extinguishes. Lightly rev and its ok, but when I boot it- It triggers. Do you think there is a compatibility issue between the corrado vr6 clocks and the golf vr6 sensor. I have screwed it into the top of the r32 BFH oil filter housing. Also I have a mocal oil cooler..... any ideas?

I will report back tonight to see if you can get away with splicing the gearbox wire straight to the ecu (pin54) and the off to the clock (invariably all on the same line) Before I go: Using VCDS where to I go to see the vehicle speed not engine speed? How do I check timing as I did the chains? How do I check the accelerator pedal position? (I think it is block 50 something but can't find a definitive answer) Thanks Also for info: Other useful checks before I have put the front end on is: Clutch switch operation: Block 66 Brake switch operation: Block 66 Timing chain stretch: 208 and 209

Congrats mate. I think you nailed it ---------- Post added at 1:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:48 PM ---------- Congrats mate. I think you nailed it

Can you do as me and go straight from the gearbox to the ecu, and share that join, then to go back to the fusebox for the clocks? You will bypass the troubleshooting of w1, the clocks and fuseboard in regards to vss..... Although if you wait until after weds I can tell you if this is a good idea or not :-)

Hmm..... Good idea about the checking the vehicle speed using vcds, I had planned the same as a sanity check on wednesday before attaching my driveshafts. Mine has been wired slightly differently to the proper way dil has detailed for you. Mine is going from the gearbox to the ecu wiring and tailing on this join to the clocks (negating the need to use w1) One of us will report back on the exact impact of this if any after Weds, but on out initial testing it hasn't shown any faults I know for sure w1 is not a bridged port for the vss into the fuse board, so my assumption would be that w1 is fed from an output of the clocks - could your clocks be causing you issues? (thinking out loud?)

[/color] I got a three way splice going on... Mine has the gearbox blue/white wire spliced into the mk4 loom (pin 54?) and then from there into the the ce2 loom for the clocks. I don't use w1. I don't have issues. We have had throttle issues on 2 mk3 r32's One turned out to be the throttle body. This car would go limp like you described, switch off and on- it was fine. We only determined what was going on by swapping the throttle body out. The other was random revving by itself...this turned out to be the actual pedal that was faulty

I will get some plugs and pedals- have a play about and report back... cheers