nikosg60
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Everything posted by nikosg60
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Hello, i am Nick the owner of NK AUTOMOTIVE-USA and the othe 3 shops on ebay, the "CORRADO" and all other vw parts that we have for sale are Original Genuine VW parts..Just to mention that we do not do any script's, we just buy and sell factory vw parts ;).Also all obsolete badges are Genuine NOS and not cheap fake reproductions... Thank you
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You're talking about me i beleive :) Hope you're well Cheers
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I bought myself a camshaft & adjustable cam pulley...
nikosg60 replied to Dennis.be's topic in Engine Bay
Yes of course thats right.I agree.But anyway it seems that his chip right now isn't setup at the correct a/f ratio, thats why in the meantime it is better to be rich than be lean :wink: If you see he has Green injectors so together with the 3.0 bar fpr i wouldn't say it runs rich at 1.1 bar of boost.Probably is alrady lean i believe. -
I bought myself a camshaft & adjustable cam pulley...
nikosg60 replied to Dennis.be's topic in Engine Bay
First thing to do change your fpr as i see must be the 3.0 bar right? Second thing to do get your cam full advanced to reduce the "lag effect" of this cam. Also take a look at your A/F ratio :wink: Cheers -
By the way semi straight cut gears are a bit noisy :roll:
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here you go: http://www.supersprint.com/a_prodotti.a ... llo=vwcor4 Cheers
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what is the year of your rado mate?
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http://www.supersprint.com/a_prodotti.a ... llo=vwcor1 Simply the best 8) Cheers
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I sold some GENUINE chrome badges (not silver painted as this are not exist) a couple of weeks before.I can asure anyone here that the GENUINE CHROME "CORRADO" badges are no longer available as a spare part from VW Germany.Only the primed. Cheers Nick
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Torque has influence on operation of knock sensor so first check to be 20-25nm. Vehicles without onboard diagnostic capability cannot have the knock sensor functionally checked. Ensure that the torque is 20-25 nm and check for corroded terminals or shield damage. Hope that helps. Nick
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Hi Beavis i dont wanna disagree with anyone here i am just adding some infos.This procedure i am talking except the vw videos, is also writen in Bentley official factory repair manual. IT GOES LIKE THIS: Idle speed and Co content,checking/adjusting The oxygen sensor remains connected during checking adjusting. Requirements *Engine oil temp 80c minimum *all electrical consumers switched off(do not take measurements while radiator cooling fan is running) *A/c switched off *Ignition timing OK *Idle stabilizer valve OK CHECKING ADJUSTING *Switch off ignition *Connect vag 1367 engine tester using inductive *pick up Vag 1367/8 on ignition coil high tension lead *connect SUN 105 CO tester(or epa approved equivalent) *disconnect crankcase ventilation hose from emission control valve (arrow 1) and route such that only fresh air is drown in *Start engine and let idle *Will run from 1-4 min at increased engine speed when idle is redused approx.100rpm *DISCONNECT BLUE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR HARNESS CONNECTOR *raise engine speed in excess of 3000 rpm 3 times then let idle *Check idle speed and CO content idle speed must be 800rpm +- 50rpm Co content must be 0.7+- 0.4 volume% IF NO *adjust by alternately turning adjustment screws until both spec are obtained *RECONNECT BLUE TEMP SENSOR *Raise engine speed 3 times and then let idle *Check CO content must be 0.7 +-0.4 volume % If No check OXS control. Hope that helps :wink:
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Ignition timing,Co content and idle speed RPM´s are inter-related and must be checked/adjusted together. Of course ALL sensors must be connected during the MOT test. During the adjustment the blue temp sensor must be disconected. You have an email in which you can read about this.Check it and will see who is right and who is wrong. 8)
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No Dear,i am afraid your wrong.Except all the original service manual i have the Volkswagen training video for dealers. It has this issue regarding to basic settings of this engine. You have to make all the adjustments with the blue temp sensor disconected and after that you see what you get. :wink: Its clear.This is the right way for sure. Cheers Nick
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Hi Guys. Refereing to the original service manual the co adjastmuntmust be done with the blue temp sensor disconected.The steps of the basic timing setup on Digifant1 ECU are as follows: 1.Disconect the blue temp sensor 2.Disconect the crankcase breather hose 3.Adjust timing @ 6deg +-1 4.Adjust the idle screw on the back of the inlet manifold 5.Adjust the co and check the readings 6.Reconect the blue temp sensor and check the co again to be on the same values. All the above are the basic settings of the PG Engine with Digifant 1ECU. It is true that 400-600ohm is the best value on the co measured from pin 1-3. Greetings from Athens. NICK
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Pinking (Sorry I know it's an old topic)
nikosg60 replied to C. Will Corrado G60 2's topic in Engine Bay
Hi guys. Many times timing in g60 engines is different betwen flywheel and crank pulley.Sometimes when you set up the timing from the flywheel you are running advanced! I am sure that if you set up your timing again but from the crank pulley and not from the flywheel you'll get the right set up. eg. flywheel shows 6 deg. btdc crank pulley shows 14deg btdc In other words you have 14deg but you think that you have 6deg. Check it out. Greetings from Athens Cheers ps.Forget the fpr.I would reccomend you to use Bosch fpr but this is not a fuel delivery problem. -
i am trying to find a reason why he have to change the green injectors? my car is running on a 65mm pulley without probs at all.i have only put a 3.5fpr and thats all.i would recomend to put a halmeter together with a boost gauge before you do anything. cheers. ****MOD EDIT***** post de-capped-vr6storm