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Jim

Coolant leak at the oil cooler...

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I seem to be gradually leaking coolant and from what I can see I *think* its where the a coolant pipe attaches to (as you look at it from the front) the left hand side of the oil cooler.

 

I reckon its this because I have some crusty blue deposits around where the hose is clamped on to the cooler, and they look pretty similar to the crusty blue deposits I had around the flange on the front of the block which I had replaced on the last service.

 

Can anyone tell me a little more - where that pipe comes from, if its likely to be an expensive job to swap (hoping it'd just be an hour or so at Stealth - drain coolant, swap pipe, refill, job done), etc?

 

Thanks :)

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One pipe comes off the metal coolant pipe that goes round the side of the bl,ock and joins the water pump to the heater matrix and the other pipe comes from the hose from the water pump to the bottom of the flange that bolts to the front of the head. Bpth can be changed in about 1 hour jim but the pipes are quite dear at £40 for the one that goes to the head flange IIRC and the other one being about £30, this is just from memory, when I can get the latest pricelist for etka to work I will be able to tell ya the full cost.

 

Soubds about right, might be a good time to get rid of it completly and fit a Mocal cooler....

 

You will still have the hoses there steve and you just have to pipe tem together so if there is a leak there due to a split it will still leak :(

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if its the same as the vr6 then the pipe costs around £6,it goes from the oil cooler to the block or if its the 2nd pipe it goes from the oil cooler to a plastic water pipe,dont know if its the same as a vr6 to do but i had to take the front panel,radiator etc out to do it :shock:

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I figured that the stock cooler would still be there even if you went for something like the Mocal because the oil filter screws into it doesn't it?

 

Well i'll need to get em done - they do definately seem to be leaking and looking at the dry crustiness of them I suspect they are the 'original' items. If you find a price Ant, that'd be mega useful - could buy them in advance of a Stealth Racing visit and just get them to do the biz.

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hello there jim , when you fit one of our kits they come with brand new OE pipes to elimate the std heater/cooler all together this no only lets the coolent system run alot cooler it also allows you to continue using a std g60 oil filter aswell .

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Damn - another reason to get a mod sneaked in for the car.

 

Could you PM me with a price for the complete kit Darren?

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that's exactly the same way I've done mine Daz... Well better than the horrible heat exchanger thing that VW fitted as standard... :| Keeps the car's temps under much better control and eliminates one of the weak points on the VW engines (the aluminium "cooler" often breaks down dropping all the oil into the water system)

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do the oil cooler kits g-werks supply use a thermostatic sandwich plate ??

 

and do the oil/water heat exchangers just unbolt from the take-off plate then?

 

anyone got pics of this done to a g60?

 

i might be taking my charger down to g-werks for some fettling soon(have to remember to cover it in tippex :roll: :lol: :lol: ) so an oil cooler will be needed as well

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here's a bit of a better shot to show you how it fits to the engine... 8)

 

The take off plate is about an inch thick, so you actually SAVE about 1/2 an inch when you remove the heat exchanger unit... 8)

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cheers henny

so does the heat exchanger just unbolt through the center and get replaced by the sandwich plate or do you need to change the mounting/take off plate too?

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The threaded pipe that the oil filter screws onto has a big nut on it which holds the original cooler on... unscrew that and the cooler just slides off... The threaded pipe will also unscrew from the filter head (the bit wot attaches to the engine block! ;) ) You'll need to cut down the threaded pipe to fit the new cooler slightly though... it's dead simple and easy to do too with just a hacksaw... 8)

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Its also worth mentioning that you will need either the RSR outlet or the one that Henny and Jim are running as the connectors off the sandwich plate will not fit with the original baffle box in the way...

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Its also worth mentioning that you will need either the RSR outlet or the one that Henny and Jim are running as the connectors off the sandwich plate will not fit with the original baffle box in the way...

 

mine fits fine....

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cheers i am going to get the rsr outlet anyway so that wont be a problem, and i might be getting a cutom all alloy intercooler made soon as i have been quoted 180 squid for one the same size as the rallye intercooler but with a choice of where the pipes go 8)

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Its also worth mentioning that you will need either the RSR outlet or the one that Henny and Jim are running as the connectors off the sandwich plate will not fit with the original baffle box in the way...

 

Fitted on mine OK when I test built the engine... :| Would be a whole shed load easier with an RSR outlet though... 8)

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Supercharged wrote:

Its also worth mentioning that you will need either the RSR outlet or the one that Henny and Jim are running as the connectors off the sandwich plate will not fit with the original baffle box in the way...

 

 

Fitted on mine OK when I test built the engine... Would be a whole shed load easier with an RSR outlet though...

 

Hmmm...maybe because I have 90 degree bends coming out the sandwich plate... deff does not fit!

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ah! I had the 90degree bends on the cooler end, not the sandwich end... 8)

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I'm hopefully gonna do like Henny and have the cooler bolted where the normal shoebox sixed Corrado G60 intercooler sits, seeing as there is a vacant bit of space there for it.

 

Definately going to look at a Mocal now instead of just fixing the standard system - think an order will be placed once christmas is out of the way and a visit to Stealth will be arranged :)

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