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SteveM16v

Dying

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Need some advise I'm afraid. My G reg 16v 1.8 is playing up!

 

Its started cutting out and also isn't running that well. Doesn't seem to cut out when in the higher rev range, but when changing gear it suddenly dies (around twice in a 30 minute journey). When rolling along in gear (but without my foot on the accelerator) it doesn't run evenly, sometimes it seems to run along fine and other times it hesitates and is slightly lumpy. When idle it is slightly uneven and seems to be looking around for the correct idle speed??

 

I thought it might be the fuel filter so I changed it - no luck so I've done the following still with little success:

 

Replaced sparks, leads, dizzy, rota arm, battery and throttle cable (thought it might be sticking). I've also pulled the plug out of the ECU and cleaned this. I'm not very mechanically minded, but is there anything more I can do without spending a fortune putting it into a garage??

 

Thanks as always

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Mine has similar problems and I've done the similar service changes. My next port of call is the Idle valve and cold start valve.

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Have you checked the timing? i.e. all the timing marks line up on the crank pulley, cam pulley, dizzy and flywheel?

 

The Hall sender is about £35 from http://www.gsfcarparts.com if I remember right. I cannot remember exactly what it does but when mine went it was like the car kept cutting out with the rev counter behaving erraticaly. I am not saying that it is this but it is a possibility. Also, do a search for on the ISV etc as it may just need cleaned.

 

Hall Sender:

If you look at your dizzy there will be an electrial plug coming out about halfway down. See if this is loose. The hall sender is just a circiut board that senses the pulses when the slotted disc in the dizzy rotates Just remove your cap, unplug the electrical connection then undo the two bolts holding in the ditributor. Make sure to mark the position its in before removing. There may be a little oil come out when you remove it.

To get to the hall sender you need to punch out the pin on the lower coupling (noting which way the cupling sits) then just withdraw the shaft from the body. The sender unit will now be shown. 3 screws out and replace. Refit in reverse.

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Thanks Henny, I've ordered the part from the gsf as suggested (only £27 with free P&P) and I'll use your guide to fit it. Hopefully that will solve te issue - who knows!

 

Thanks for your help yet again, I'll let you know how I get on!

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eh? I've not said anything 'cos coullstar, said it all perfectly... 8) :lol:

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Oh arse! I'm so use to you fixing problems I didn't check!!!!!

 

Sorry Coullstar!!! Thanks for your help - I'll keep YOU posted. :oops: :(

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Do chek all vacum hoses for splits/ leaks, and also all conectors for clean connections. Also take your idle screw out and clean it in petrol including making sure throttle body is clean. Do check the"crap flap", air meetering flap for cleanliness as it tends to get caked in oil drawn from breather pipe. Something mighte be sticking or chocking. Hope this helps

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My 2.0 16v used to cut out on me occaisonally. Also felt like it had a random flat spot, and sometimes had trouble starting.

 

Eventually traced to the dizzy (after checking that the hall sender was OK).

 

Replaced dizzy (not just cap) and now (touch wood) all OK.

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Thanks for all the advise. I've ordered the part now.... I just hope I'm able to fit it!!!

How long should it take to fit the hall sender and how difficult is it??

 

Thanks again

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I had a similar sounding problem on a Scirocco GTi I used to own many years ago...

 

Have you checked the large earth strap that is clamped to the rocker cover - this can cause problems on K-Jet engines if not proberly connected or badly corroded.

 

Failing that you should try swapping your ECU to see if that makes any difference.

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Try your local breakers or on the PVW website.

 

The RAC have them - when my cabby left me stranded they tried changing the brain/ecu and I was surprised that they carried one on the van. It worked out to be my fuel pump relay in the end. (on the cabby that is)

 

If you are a meber of the RAC call em out and they will check it for free!

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His name is actually Henry... (he gets a bit upset if you spell it wrong :lol: )
:?: :?:

 

He's just being a bit of a prat as normal Steve :wink: , don't worry about it... (everyone else has given up worrying about him... ;) )

 

The reason I correct people when they get my name wrong is 'cos there is a user on here called henRy and it's confusing when people get the names mixed up... :roll:

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He's just being a bit of a prat as normal Steve , don't worry about it... (everyone else has given up worrying about him... )

 

The reason I correct people when they get my name wrong is 'cos there is a user on here called henRy and it's confusing when people get the names mixed up...

 

Sorry - the other thread just made me laugh!

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Received the Hall Sender this morning - thirty quid for that :!:

 

Bloody better be the cause of the problem or I'm going to cry and sell the sodding car. Who said owning a Corrado would be easy! Two years of owning a Scirocco and the only thing I ever did was change the oil/tyres :p

 

Autotrader could be the first page I'll be going to if this doesn't work tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!

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Well I got the pin out, assembled the sender, fitted back without any further issues...... only problem being, it still wouldn't start! Took it all apart again checked everything and re-assembled - again nothing??

 

I've had to put the old one back in and now I'm back to my C cutting out! Any ideas why the new hall sender wouldn't work and why the old one does?????

 

Many thanks as always

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Did the car just turn over or even try to start? Is the coupling in exactly the same orientation as when you removed it? It only goes on one way.

 

Did you check the plugs after trying the new one to see if they were covered in petrol?

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