Jim 2 Posted January 26, 2005 Keep us posted. I can't wait to find out what happens... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OSV 0 Posted January 26, 2005 Magnetic cam sensor?, sorted now I understand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adambob 0 Posted January 26, 2005 Gareth - are you talking about the Cam Position Sensor? If so, they have apparently already investigated that! Cracked solenoid is the latest (but arguably not the greatest)... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gibber 0 Posted January 27, 2005 adambob where are you man???? I want to hear the final part of the story! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 27, 2005 Gareth - are you talking about the Cam Position Sensor? If so, they have apparently already investigated that! Cracked solenoid is the latest (but arguably not the greatest)... More likely to be a broken plastic sender on the cam (the bit the CPS takes it's signal from) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 27, 2005 Yeah that normally cracks in half when removing the cam wheels and most garages don't notice and put it back on again. But it's going to be a rocker cover job to find out for sure.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adambob 0 Posted January 27, 2005 The conclusion..... Week 2 - Thursday. It's done! :thumbleft: I'm not sure i can believe it though. I got final confirmation late last night. She's now pumping out 219BHP! I'm very pleased with the figures and there's apparently a sh1tload more torque from 2000rpm. The explanation: The solenoid valve on the manifold had a hairline fracture which needed to be replaced although the main issue was the broken plastic sender on the cam (i can't believe that "supercharged" + kev have only just suggested this - 2 weeks too late though! you could have saved me a fair wack in labour charges). The seal apparently broke and the magnet fell out - the magnet is needed as it provides a north and south polarity for the CPS. Geoff said it was the first new thing he had learnt about a corrado's engine in 4 years. Here's the bill: 3 Ls of Oil, Hosing, Clippers, Inlet Man Gasket, Throttle Housing Gasket, Rocker cover gasket, Coolant, fuel, tappets, solenoid valve, HT leads, re-map and labour. The cost: £1100 (2 full days labour charged as opposed to the 5 actually used) Still on the excessive side but i'm just happy the problem has now been resolved. Cheers to everyone for their input and watch this space for some dynoplots.... Also, to anyone who's interested; i'm considering selling the film rights to this 'journey'. You can have them for £1100 ono.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 27, 2005 219 hp is not too shabby mate. Glad you've got it back with tonnes more poke. Yeah sorry about not mentioning the cam sender wheel mate. I always forget that one.... although I did suggest they check the solenoid though :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted January 27, 2005 Good to hear you've got this one sorted out! Bet she's fun with 219BHP! 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 27, 2005 2 weeks too late though! you could have saved me a fair wack in labour charges). The seal apparently broke and the magnet fell out - the magnet is needed as it provides a north and south polarity for the CPS. Geoff said it was the first new thing he had learnt about a corrado's engine in 4 years. 2 weeks late! - 'Geoff' sounds like a bit of a fuckwit to me - He should know that that part is renowned for breaking when fitting cams - infact i'd say it's something that should always be changed, for a so called 'speciallist' what a bunch of muppets! - If a new Shrick was faulty they should be charging Shrick the labour cost not you! I would rather give my car to Kwikfit that these idiots especially after seeing a certain Seat Ibiza down at Stealth... adambob, Glad you got it sorted in the end! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adambob 0 Posted January 27, 2005 The nightmare is finally over. Let's just hope we all don't end up in the same boat when i go for the supercharger at the end of the year! :) Cheers again for all the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OSV 0 Posted January 27, 2005 Jeff Webb is far from a fuckwit, lets see how much critisism he gets for the next car he's building ! also as the builder of the Bronze Dubsport MK2 I haven't seen a quicker road legal single engined VW watercooled car. The polarity of the magnet in the sensor is what caused the problem, not the broken sensor itself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adambob 0 Posted January 31, 2005 Did anyone experience stalling issues when they converted to a VGI and 268s? It's stalled about 25 times in just 2 days of driving! - i suspect the ISV needs adjusting. It happens everytime the revs drop when you change gear / coast to a junction. Is there an easy way to resolve this issue?.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted January 31, 2005 That's a big question.. Lots of VRs do this all the time. It may be helped by resetting your ECU, but since it's just been rechipped I'd expect that to have already been done... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradovr6sc 0 Posted January 31, 2005 Did anyone experience stalling issues when they converted to a VGI and 268s? It's stalled about 25 times in just 2 days of driving! - i suspect the ISV needs adjusting. It happens everytime the revs drop when you change gear / coast to a junction. Is there an easy way to resolve this issue?.... Clean out the isv and throttlebody and check for vacuum leaks. Replacing the fuel pump relay may help, if it's not the isv etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adambob 0 Posted February 1, 2005 Cheers - i'll give the above a go and hopefully i can approach a junction without having to start the engine again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 3, 2005 Did anyone experience stalling issues when they converted to a VGI and 268s? It's stalled about 25 times in just 2 days of driving! - i suspect the ISV needs adjusting. It happens everytime the revs drop when you change gear / coast to a junction. Is there an easy way to resolve this issue?.... Yeah mine does occasionally with the cams and manifold but then it used to do that when standard aswell, so I don't think there's a link. The only thing that changes on the idle side of things with the Schrick is the deletion of the ISV damper pot. I don't know why that pot is deleted. There's certainly no information about it in the Schrick paperwork. I've seen a VR6 with Schrick retain the damper pot, so I might stick mine back on and see if it helps. 25 times in 2 days is not good, definitely something amiss there!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted February 3, 2005 The damper pot being the small plastic square thing that makes a shag load of hissing noise? My Schrick-equipped VR still has it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 3, 2005 The damper pot being the small plastic square thing that makes a shag load of hissing noise? My Schrick-equipped VR still has it... That's the fella.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trebor 0 Posted February 4, 2005 Did anyone experience stalling issues when they converted to a VGI and 268s? It's stalled about 25 times in just 2 days of driving! - i suspect the ISV needs adjusting. It happens everytime the revs drop when you change gear / coast to a junction. Is there an easy way to resolve this issue?.... Ive been following this post from the start and I really feel for you. I have a schrickmanifold and 268 cam. These have been on for approx 3 month and have not had one bit of trouble. The remap from stealth racing is so smoooooooth that I dont even think its modified. Until that torque kicks in and Im untouchable 8) ya digg-- Anyway that 2.8 vr6 in that Mk3 golf feels so different to the 2.9 vr6 in the corrado -- Im not helping sorry Err No Ive Never had a vr6--- of which Ive had three- that stalled-- Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trebor 0 Posted February 4, 2005 on the + side your learn alot more than me about this kind of stuff. If thats a good thing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malaki 0 Posted December 4, 2011 At these wiring positions good for my 95/96 corrado vr6 abv just can't find the rev tachometer wire cheers Schrick red wire to ECU Live (Red/black - pin 22 IIRC) Schrick black wire to ground Schrick blue wire to ECU RPM signal wire (Green/black - pin 24 IIRC) Schrick white wire to VAG solenoid. The schrick controller wiring needs soldering direct to the ECU plug pins as it is intolerant of being tapped into the wires half way down the loom. And we're exactly do I need to join the wires didn't think it would matter were it was as long as correct wire Please help K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
