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Battery light

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I don't know if this is related to previous message ( http://www.atx-hosting.co.uk/~ccgb/foru ... .php?t=244 ) but the battery light just started to come on recently.

 

I did have a flat battery last week if thats of any use, fairly new battery its just that the car had been sitting around for 3 weeks. Jump started it and all was ok. It starts first time everytime no hesitation but the battery lights still on. I've checked the bushes in alternator and seems ok from what I can make out.

 

Any help much appreciated.

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The only thing I can suggest is to test the voltage coming out of the alternater with a multimeter if you have one it should be charging at 13-14v when the engine is running if it is below this then it aint charging properly and you'll need to buy a new one!! Also check that the fan belt isn't worn and slipping that could also mean that the alt isnt charging proerly hece the light coming on!!

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Thanks guys. I'll check that.

 

Steve, where are these voltage reg/brushes. Are these the ones on the side of the alternator held by 2 philips screws?

 

Cheers

 

Amit

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Thanks Steve. Just had a look at GSF site and can see it there.

 

BTW car died on me yesterday. When I got into it noticed the speedo lights weren't as bright as normal. Got round the corner and at the junction and it just died.

 

Pushed it to the side and called the AA. They'll be there in 2 1/2hrs!! Got a mate out who jump started it, it fired up straight away and as soon as I turned the lights on it was about to cut off. I drove it for about 1/4 mile and it died again. In the end just towed it.

 

Is there a sure whay of knowing if its the alternator or just the regulator?

 

Cheers

 

Amit

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I think from memory the alternator brush wear limit it 6mm with a tolerance of 1mm, they are 12mm long when new i think

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gsf deffinetly sell em...maybe heyre listed under golf etc....theyre mostly the same..see if you can pop into a local branch

 

to test the alt....conect a voltmeter to the batt..should show12-12.5...now sart the car and put on the headlights...it should be at least 13.5v.....its prob the voltage reg part gone rather than than brush lengh...both come in the replacment

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how kind am i...ive looked the receipt from g&s...91030 vag ref 068903803b regulator-bosch alt......this fits g60's 8v and 16v...and most bosch alts...well worth fitting on any car thats done 50k or over

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Steve, you are the man. Thank you very much mate.

 

I'll check it out on saturday. Luckily, I'm local to the Heathrow branch, the HQ.

 

I'll keep you posted.

 

Amit

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WARNING When removing the bushes you might want to disconnect the battery, as a slip with the screw driver when undoing them could prove costly.

 

When i undid mine one of the screws had stuck and i i had to lossen it with mole grips.

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My battery light has been on for a couple of months now. Got the battery and alternator tested and both fine. I guess its just the wire measuring the output from the alternator. Kind of got used to it now though..

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Guys, heres an update on this problem.

 

Replaced the voltage regulator and jump started her. She fired up but alternator was not throwing out enough volts so put it down to duff alternator. Picked a Bosch refurb'ed one from GSF (65Amp £100 BTW) and fitted it Jump started it and it fired up, and the alternator seemed to do the trick. Took it for a spin and it seemed ok other than the battery light flickering , just put that down to new alternator needing bedding in.

 

Drove to a mates about 15 miles away to look at the other probs (windows, mirrors, reverse lights and heated washer jets fuse blowing) and the whole way battery light still kept flickering.

 

Once there, popped in a new fuse no. 14 and everything worked ok, bizarre. Checked the obvious things like washer jets wiring etc and visually seemed ok. Reversed the car out of the garage and sure enough fuse blew. Bollox!!

 

Car then started to die just like before. Jump started it and it was ok. Tested the alternator and it was only putting out 11 to 12v. Can this alternator be duff by chance too or is something else causing this problem?

 

By moving random wires in the engine bay we tried seeing if we could change the flickering of battery light. Mate found around the gear box linkage when he moves the wires the light went off or stayed constantly on. Interestingly when you put it in reverse the linkage push's down on these wires.

 

Anyway, the car's still at his place as there was no way it was going anywhere, someone help before he strips it lol.

 

Any suggestions or pointers on where to look from here? Is there a way the car is eating up alternators?

 

Thanks again.

 

Amit

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The only thing I can suggest is to test the voltage coming out of the alternater with a multimeter if you have one it should be charging at 13-14v when the engine is running if it is below this then it aint charging properly and you'll need to buy a new one!! Also check that the fan belt isn't worn and slipping that could also mean that the alt isnt charging proerly hece the light coming on!!
Which voltage should the regulator be? 14,5 volt? :wink:

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this sound like the earth strap from the battery to the chassis and then the gearbox to me... if that's loose, missing, damaged or corroded (inc. ends) then you won't be getting a good earth to your engine so the alternator won't be charging the battery properly...

 

Worth checking anyway... 8)

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If the earth strap was duff you wouldn't get power from the battery either tho, surely? Dunno...

Still worth checking, but it sounds more like there's something shorting to earth somewhere, probably intermittently. Which is a pain in the butt to track down... :(

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why do you say that dr_mat? (interested, not questioning... 8) )

 

My thoughts were that if the earth strap is bad, then the battery won't be getting the full output of the alternator which would cause the battery light to come on. It'd also not be charging the battery properly which means that you're not running the engine off JUST the alternator once started, but are also using the battery slightly which would cause the battery to drain rather than charge and would cause the cutting out problems as described as the battery flattens and you run out of power to keep the engine running... It'd also only jump start due to the extra current available from 2x batteries being able to overcome the resistance of the dodgy strap and would run for a few minutes as the boost of charge from the other battery runs out of the car's battery...

 

Shorting to earth normally has some pretty obvious tell tail signs like blown fuses if it's a big enough drain to put the battery light on....

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