LarryDuff 0 Posted February 4, 2005 I have a spare 2-channel Pioneer amp from my old Golf which i'd quite like to wire into my C if possible. Currently i have an Alpine V12 amp running a 10" Alpine sub (installed by previous owner). My Sony head unit has 3 sets of rca outputs (front/rear/sub) so obviously i connect either front or rear to the pioneer amp, whichever i decide. What i'm not sure about is whether it's necessary to wire an additional live feed and on/off cable to the second amp, or whether i can somehow wire this into the feeds for the Alpine amp? Have tried the search but to no avail! Any thoughts? Or is this just a really stupid question?? Cheers, AK Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted February 5, 2005 My adice would be to run a single cable (fused at the battery), and rated higher than both the amps combined, from the battery to the general amp location. Then use a fused splitter and properly rated cable to supply each of the amps seperately. A common block to split the ground keeps things neat. Looping the second amp remote feed off the first is fine. I'll draw you a picture if that's a bit confusing! It's never a stupid question if you don't know the answer. It'd be more stupid to blunder in and burn your car out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue_Joe 0 Posted February 5, 2005 bcstudent is exactly right. I have a 600W 4 Channel and a 600W Mono Block running 2 12" Subs. I run 0-Guage cable fused from the battery runnning to boot, into a 2.4 Farad Power cap then use a fused distribution block to split it to the 2 amps. Also remember. If you start running 2 high power amps, with plenty of output\nd possibly a cap, then you also might need to consider putting on an uprated battery and 90amp alternator. This is when it starts getting expensive. With my setup, I boiled my standard battery in a day, I had to install an optima red top battery (£200) and a 90amp alternator (about £250) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GIXXERUK 0 Posted February 5, 2005 i had this problem recently and in the end a ran more cables , hassle but i knew it would work correctly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LarryDuff 0 Posted February 5, 2005 Thanks for the advice everyone. Needing to uprate the battery/alternator was kinda at the back of my mind, but can't remember the ratings of the amps of the top of my head - will have to get out to the car and have a look later on. Is there a general rule of thumb for what's too much for a standard battery? bcstudent, i think i follow you so no need for the picture! :) The friendly local car audio shop will be able to help me out with the bits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted February 7, 2005 I'd give the set up a go before splashing out on new batteries and alternators. I ran about 1400w RMS in 3 amps in my old Saxo and the std battery was fine as long as the engine was running. I was waiting for it to go but it was fine! A halfway house between a std battery and an Ultima would be a diesel battery from another car. They supply a lot more juice and you don't pay a premium for having an "ICE Specific" cell. I think a cap would help as well. As a rough guide I've heard one Farad per 500w. As you're in Canterbury you could go down to Huet Car Audio in Hove. They are extremely knowledgable and very keen to help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 7, 2005 1400W LOL! That's enough to run a 3 bar electric heater and keep some old biddy warm this winter :D Caps are a waste of time. Only naff amps with poor quality power supplies need a cap. Run a DLS A6 or a Genesis Monoblock with and without 2 farad cap and see if you can hear the difference..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted February 7, 2005 Funny you should say that actually, I haven't put my cap into the Rado and I can honestly say I can't hear the difference (and all the ICE is the same kit!) It's all a big conspiracy! My old install did sound awesome though, people always wanted my car going at the shows to provide the SaxoSportsClub's soundtrack! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesy 0 Posted February 7, 2005 If your running anymore than 2 amps then u do need to look at uprated batterys or alternator. The strain isn't good for any the components. As for caps, i run 2 in my system to provide consistant power of +13v I'm running 2xDLS A3's & 2xDLS A2's I also have the second battery & split charger set up running. With these i do notice the difference than without them Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 7, 2005 I can't hear the difference (and all the ICE is the same kit!) It's all a big conspiracy! LOL....I've certainly not heard much of a difference using caps, maybe a slight bit of extra strength in the really low bass when the engine is off. But engine on, using appropriate guage wiring and a decent amp, there's no difference! In fact, I reckon Gordon at Genesis would be offended if people tried to supplement his excellent power supplies with naff Caps! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubster82 0 Posted February 7, 2005 Caps are for peopele whos headlights etc dim a lil bit when their systems are turned up large amounts. a genesis amp is more than capable of making your ears bleed and depending on the car and the load your makig it pull, theres a very good possibility that a capacitor would be required to even out the incoming power supply to make the whole thing work better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted February 8, 2005 I reckon Gordon at Genesis would be offended if people tried to supplement his excellent power supplies with naff Caps! I'd be inclined to agree Kev.....Never fitted a cap to a system with Genesis amps whilst working at SMC (Shrewsbury)....never needed to! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
