cutting out

[Roger Blassberg 0]

It's a 96 Golf GTi 8v. The engine starts, then dies instantaneously after 5 seconds, i.e. doesn't fade away. All the ignition system apart from the distributor has been changed, there is fuel (admittedly a flow rate check has not been carried out). AA has been in attendance twice, and the car is currently with a VW stealer who can find no fault on the analysis equipment.

 

Any ideas?

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[coolrado 0]

does it have a factory fit immobiliser?

[Roger Blassberg 0]

yes it does, and that was the AA man's question. VW workshop has apparently given that a clean bill of health; whether that means that it is indeed fault-free, or just that the key and the immobiliser work together to give an initial start but then it gives a fault afterwards, who knows?

 

Have you had experience of such problems with the immobiliser?

 

Thanks

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[coolrado 0]

not myself but have heard mention of similar problems on vr6 immobilisers where they initially work and then cut out

[Jim 2]

Yeah.. have heard the same about the factory fit immob. Is it possible you need to get the key recoded to the immobliser?

 

VR6 cutting out problems with the factory fit immob are the same.. runs for a few seconds as normal then just cuts out.

[Henny 0]

Does it start up straight away after it's died? If it does, and then dies again after another 5 seconds or so, then this indicates that you've got a good spark, the fuel is OK and the timing's OK. Personally, at that point, I'd remove the ignition switch wiring and hot wire it to see if it's a dodgy switch which is failing... ;) Costs nothing, easy to do and could well be your problem...

[Roger Blassberg 0]

We, that is the owner of this car and I, assume that the immobiliser is integral with the ECU and that a fault would mean replacing the whole lot.

Is this correct? If so, any idea on the cost, or does anyone have a spare one knocking about?

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Roger Blassberg 0]

That's definitely worth looking at Henny. Thanks a lot.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[coolrado 0]

are you able to check the supply to the ignition system to see if it cuts out when it stops?

it might just be a dry joint in the ecu but if it cant be repaired you can probably pick one up from a breakers yard if it is the ecu at fault. i have seen ecu's go from anywhere between 10 and 50 quid second hand and as much as 500 quid new so not sure on a price

[Majik 0]

Get an auto-electrican to confirm that it is the ECU before you change it, the last thing you dont want the risk of damaging anything else by fitting another one

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Ok, the VW workshop says that the engine speed sensor is to blame (associated cost of over £450, allegedly, sounds like a lot to me!!) - my view is that this is a common mistake when reading the diagnostics since it always shows this fault with a stationary engine. Am I right on this one?

 

Apparently they have by-passed the ignition switch and it isn't that.

 

It's looks like the immobiliser.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[dr_mat 0]

A Peugeot dealer quoted us £800 for a 206 ECU when the fault was the immobiliser key reader coil...

I find it weird that the engine speed sensor causes it to run perfectly fine for 5 seconds then cut out, reliably, consistently. If the engine speed sensor was truly dead it wouldn't start. And if it was intermittently dead, it would start and randomly die... Don't know about the Golf ECU, but certainly the VR6 ECU of the same age reports Engine Speed Sensor at any time the engine isn't turning.

If they want to replace it, tell them you're not convinced and you'll only let them go ahead if they swap it back when it fails to fix the problem. Watch how fast they come up with some other explanation...

[RW1 0]

You're right dr_mat.

 

The Golf ECU and Corrado ECU are essentially the same box, doesn't mean they will interchange though.

 

If the immobiliser is at fault, the ECU should report the "immobilser/ECU blocked" fault code 17***. If not, then I would be a little sceptic that it is the immobilser circuit.

 

The fact the engine runs for 5 seconds is too long for the immobiliser/ECU problem. This usually cuts the engine inside 1 to 2 seconds if the ECU hasn't completed full authorisation. Just try WD40 on the ignition key sensor connection at the immobiliser box inside the dash behind the headlight switch. This connection is the source of the majority of problems with 1995 - 1997 cars. (Normally this will show as a fault in the ECU so no fault code suggests it isn't the problem but worth eliminating al the same).

 

Engine speed sensor, yeah won't start if it's duff and gone completely but I've known several to fail intermitently but regular like this - nope.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Turned out to be the speed sensor according to the Stealer.

 

£126 for the sensor and, (wait for it), £250 for "analysis of problem" and labour.

 

Dear God, it beggars belief !! Dick Turpin is alive and well and running a VW dealership in NW London.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[coolrado 0]

have you driven the car since or is this just what they have told you the problem is ?

[Roger Blassberg 0]

It's the car of a work colleague. It has been driven from London to Birmingham and back since repair and appears to run better than it did before it started cutting out.

 

My expression of surprise was with the analysis and repair item of the bill.

 

Regards

 

RB

[coolrado 0]

nothing would surprise me from a vw dealer

 

i took my caddy in for a service and told them the clutch pedal was sometimes reluctant to come back up like it was catching on something

and they rang me back and said the clutch master cylinder was knackered and would be changed under warranty, but also that the brake pads where almost worn out which would be 198 quid+ vat :shock:

i told them to leave the pads as i can get them done elsewhere for around 60 quid

 

got the van back a week later and they hav'nt done anything, the clutch master cylinder has not been changed and none of the dirt in the enginje bay has been disturbed and also the pads have got stacks left on them. thats why i would never take my c to a dealer as the majority of them are rip off merchants who only give a crap when youre buying a new car :mad: