Clack, Clack Help Please!

[StormVR6 0]

Just a quicky, should there be any noise coming from the belt side of the VR, there is a "clack-clack" noise which seems to emanate from the V belt tensioner when idling (which also clicks to the touch), is something buggered or am I just noticing things that were always there?

 

Cheers

 

MB

[corradovr6sc 0]

Sounds like it could be worn bearings on tensioner pulley.

[StormVR6 0]

Well considering the chains etc were renewed only 10 weeks ago that shouldn't be the case right??

Now that would definately p*ss me off! :x

[corradovr6sc 0]

The belt is nothing to do with the chains as they are on opposite sides of the engine. The noise is from the left side of the engine (drivers side)?

[StormVR6 0]

Yep, and definately coming from the area at the top of the V belt/tensioner, and sorry "etc" meaning chains, belt and tensioner.

[dr_mat 0]

You had the timing chains, tensioners, guides, clutch replaced AND the aux belt and it's tensioner?

They're at opposite ends of the engine. I mean, you might have done so, in which case either your new aux belt tensioner is fecked or the belt is catching on something on the way round.

[StormVR6 0]

Yes Dr, all of those were replaced (guides not sure about tho'), and by aux belt I assume you mean the V belt (on drivers side)?

[dr_mat 0]

Yep. That's the one.

Sure there's nothing stuck to the back of the belt or something silly like that?

If your brand new tensioner is clacking then it wants taking back!

[StormVR6 0]

Right OK back to Stealth it is then, and while I'm there they can fit my new steering column! Oh if only there was a decent period of time where nothing went wrong I would be a very happy man. :)

[dr_mat 0]

New steering column too? What's up with your old one?

[StormVR6 0]

Enough play for the wheel to touch the windscreen!! :lol:

Should have failed the last MOT but fortunately I know the owners son.

I was lucky to get a second hand one off of an 11K C for a bargain price of £50. Thank you very much :D

[dr_mat 0]

Let me know how much hassle and cost changing it is if you would, cos mine needs doing too..

[StormVR6 0]

I've already spoke to Vince about it, he said it is a bit of a pain to do and I would be looking at around 4 hours labour (about £200). Not exactly cheap but I have had a look at the job and can see why as it's all shear bolts, and if you bugger it up you won't be driving it to your mechanic to sort out! :lol:

[dr_mat 0]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

There's the shear bolts on the ignition switch housing to be dealt with too..

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Mine needs doing also.... but that's last on the list.

 

Think mine is worn in a different way though....all settings except the top one have lateral play in the column and all but the top wobble and clonk over bumps....and that's the bit I hate and makes the car horrible to drive at times.

 

The shear bolts aren't too much work and the only UJ can only go on one way, so it's childs play in all honesty......but I can't be arsed to put my back out doing it.

[dr_mat 0]

I have rotational play between the wheel and the top UJ, the rest of the column is pretty solid. Yes, I looked at the whole assembly and thought "well, it's not brain surgery", but I have to say don't fancy dealing with drilling out all those bolts, so will leave it to the pros.

Worst thing about this play is it's *variable*. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not, and the car feels great to drive again...

I blame this on it being one of the very earliest adjustable columns VW used. It's that fairly complex CV joint in the middle, or the collapsable lower shaft that's at fault, I have no doubt.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Know exactly what you mean... by and large it's been bearable but it's the annoying feeling that you KNOW it could be better....but the barrier is £550 (if you haven't found a cheaper one)....