uprated charger questions - page 4

[Riley 0]

cheers guys.

 

when id got the stat out i started it up (for a second or 2!) and there was no noise from the charger.

[stevemac 0]

Charger noise can be VERY bad news. Also with my experience of Jabbasport, I am not confident of their rebuilding skills/judgement. I have a knackered charger here to prove that !!

Jabba's porting work is not upto scratch & nor do they replace all of the bearings when they do a "full" rebuild !!

 

If my charger was knocking, I'd be getting rather nervous.

 

With regard to the charger porting - to realise the full potential of a ported charger (as with most other engine mods), the car will need re-mapping.

[Riley 0]

cheers steve.

 

ive read plenty of the topics concerning yours and anyone elses jabba chargers,and i simply wont go there for any work.

 

the thing is i really dont have the money (as in cash) to get a rebuild or anything,but im really bad for just jumping in and getting myself in debt.

 

i was thinking full blend from g-werks which i believe comes with rsr outlet (my boost pipe is looking a bit tired/cracked so rsr would sort that too?) and an sns 5.5 chip?

 

i know this would be more for piece of mind but what sort of power would this give? and anything else needed? red tops etc?

 

i already have a decat/boost return kit/superchip.

 

cheers,neil.

[Henny 0]

Sounds like a stat problem. Bottom hose is the output from the water pump and top hose goes to the head....so if the bottom hose is cold, the stat isn't opening....but 110 isn't drastic...

 

Henny, correct me mate if I'm wrong ...I've had too many beers!

 

no need, you're spot on as normal... 8) :beer:

 

cheers kev,i didnt replace the thermostat at the time of water pump change as they didnt have one in stock. :mad:

 

is the thermostat easy enough to change?

 

and any idea on the knocking charger? :(

 

cheers,neil.

 

Sorry mate, I know precisely dick about G laders.....but from memory working on Supercharged's G60, you have to take a the PAS bracketry off to get at the thermostat housing....and I *think* some of the Glader bits too....a bit of a chore in other words!

 

Thermostat can be changed WITHOUT removing the waterpump or P/S bracketry, but it's a bit of a tw@.... easiest way of doing it (that I've done anyway) is to drop the lower bracket of the P/S pump out of the way and then you should be able to remove the plastic thermostat housing and swap the thermostat over... Make sure you have a spare thermostat housing as well as the stat and an O ring too as you'll probably find that it'll break if you don't have one handy! :roll: :lol:

 

 

*edit* feck! missed page 2... :oops: :roll:

 

Charger noise that dissapears when you've got the thermostat out?!? Sounds like a noisy waterpump to me then... You sure it's coming from the charger? touch the point of a screwdriver onto the casing and place your ear on the handle to use it as a stethoscope and try and find where on the charger the noise is coming from... ;)

[Riley 0]

Thermostat can be changed WITHOUT removing the waterpump or P/S bracketry, but it's a bit of a tw@.... easiest way of doing it (that I've done anyway) is to drop the lower bracket of the P/S pump out of the way and then you should be able to remove the plastic thermostat housing and swap the thermostat over... Make sure you have a spare thermostat housing as well as the stat and an O ring too as you'll probably find that it'll break if you don't have one handy! :roll: :lol:

 

oh oh,knowing my luck itll break,will gsf have one do ya think?

 

i got the stat out by just removing lower power steering bracket :D

 

cheers.

[Riley 0]

re your edit: :lol:

 

yeah no noise but i only let it tickover for a couple of seconds and the noise is very intermittent :?

 

happens like every few minutes :? with it sat ticking over.

[Henny 0]

yup, GSF or ECP should do... The housings tend to break as you tighten them back up again... which normally results in lots of loud noises of the sweary type... :lol:

[Riley 0]

cheers henny 8)

[samg60 0]

dont want to worry you but my charger was makinga horrid knocking noise prior to me opening it up, to find a very cracked scroll, if I were you I would open it up, or if you aren't confident with things like that take it to Gwerks for an inspection, I'm sure that wont cost much.

[Riley 0]

cheers,id be ok opening it up,but i cant afford to have it off the road for long :(

 

today i stuck new stat/bts/fan switch/expansion tank and g12+ on/in it,and the overheating is cured 8)

 

took it for a run and there was no noise from the charger :? but the power was very intermittent again,any ideas? :(

 

just bringing this bit onto this page too.....

 

i was thinking full blend from g-werks which i believe comes with rsr outlet (my boost pipe is looking a bit tired/cracked so rsr would sort that too?) and an sns 5.5 chip?

 

i know this would be more for piece of mind but what sort of power would this give? and anything else needed? red tops etc?

 

i already have a decat/boost return kit/superchip.

 

neil.

[Walesy 0]

hmmmmm....charger making knocking noises nad intermittent power.....now let me think......

 

 

dude......get your charger off and get it seen....your car will be off the road weather you like it or not if the thing blows up!>...

[stevemac 0]

i was thinking full blend from g-werks which i believe comes with rsr outlet (my boost pipe is looking a bit tired/cracked so rsr would sort that too?) and an sns 5.5 chip?

 

i know this would be more for piece of mind but what sort of power would this give? and anything else needed? red tops etc?

 

i already have a decat/boost return kit/superchip.

RSR outlet is definitely a good idea with a ported charger.

 

People will quote different increases in bhp/torque with the mods that you list. Truth is that each car is different & some cars will benefit more than others. One thing for sure is that you'll get a noticable improvement with each engine mod that you do - provided that the engine is set-up & mapped properly.

 

A big factor in how much bhp/torque you end-up with will be the condition of your crancase, pistons, etc. My engine had done 100k & the piston rings were completely knackered. The bores were also showing signs of wear.

 

I wouldn't fit red-top injectors until you have the charger ported and/or cylinder head ported. You'll need to make sure you can get enough air into and out of the engine to make the hi-flow injectors worthwhile.

[bix 0]

Yep he's right just like mine did, even had the parts for a rebuild on the way, then bang :shock: I think the top eccentric idler bearing jobbie ceased up, smashed the lot to pieces :evil: Now you have 6 million pieces of oil gunged aluminium stuck in the intercooler and boost pipes to clean out, and a £700 recon charger bill, when its prolly still servicible atm :(

[Riley 0]

thanks again.

ps:steve,does your place do the throttle body gaskets,my local gsf say no but i need some :(

 

anything else you think i should go for,or what would compliment the full blend?

 

isv reroute?

 

definately wouldnt be able to stretch to a fmic i dont reckon,think im gonna buy a new lambda probe though as theres nothing to show its ever been changed.

 

do i need the sns chip to go with the full blend or should the superchip be ok?

 

im really talking myself into this :lol: i just dont have the cash but what the hell!

[h100vw 0]

Riley, don't go buying bits til you prove they don't work mate.

 

You can check that probe out first. A Voltmeter can do it very easily and often its the wiring to the probe not the probe itself that is the issue.

 

You really should consider getting what you have running perfect before blowing money on 'luxuries' :lol:

 

A re-route won't be much use if the charger blows up cos you didn't have it looked at.

 

The way to determine if your superchip is up to the job is by running the car on the rollers when you have had the charger done. If there are no holes in the curve and no weak spots noted by the probe in the exhaust then the setup will be safe. Only a change of chip or a full on mapping session will be able to tell if there is more power to be had.

 

Everyone is hung up on numbers and it's not the full story. IMO anyone claiming 200 or more without some serious (Henny and stevemac as examples) money being spent, is just talking about it.

 

My std engined Golf GTI G60 with stage 4, 68mm pulley and Jabba chip made 158 BHP at the crank according to Well Lanes rollers. With reds and a custom map it did 178 at ABG when Wayne Schofield was mapping it. It was substantially quicker than a std G60.

 

Wayne maps Porsche cup cars here to ensure they are not more than 5% above original quoted figures from Porsche. All the cars in the series had to be run on Porsche rollers to confirm that no one was pulling a fast one. So I tend to believe ABGs rollers to be accurate.

 

Spend your efforts getting your car running right before embarking on a modifying journey. By all means get he full blend done if you have the charger serviced, chips and pullies can be changed later.

 

Gavin

[Riley 0]

thanks gavin,appreciate the advice :thumbleft:

 

what would you suggest i need to be looking at then?

 

obviously theres the charger problem,and so far ive replaced all the above as well as oil and filter change/original air filter/plugs/cap and rotor arm/water pump/fuel lines.

 

there seems to be a hissing noise from the air screw on the back of throttle body,can i remove and refit a new seal or sommet?

 

and id like to replace the t body gaskets as i used the originals when i ported the t body :oops: where do i get them?

 

funny you mention the lambda wiring,i had to repair it a while ago(resoldering 2 wires) and the taping up i did is coming away,can i get a new bit of loom?

 

any other advice or pointers would be great!

 

ps:seems like theres not much reason to go for the full blend? maybe just a standard rebuild? :?

 

neil. :)

[h100vw 0]

That hissing is either the seal like you say, can buy the screw and seal from VW, nice one by the Little Chef or see if one from a 16V fits if you can find one in a scrappy.

 

If thats not it then one of the pipes must be off/damaged. I rarely replace gaskets but again VW will be able to do them I am sure. It'll be on the pages of ETKA the spotty kid has never seen. His gaffer on the other hand, had a rear wiper arm and cover for a MK3 on the shelf when I asked.

 

The loom from the plug above the probe goes straight to the ECU so that'll be an expensive replacement. Cutting back the loom and repairing shouldn't be that hard (says the aircraft electrician ;)). If you do need a new probe then it'll come with wiring on it and it might be easier to lengthen that and connect it to the ECU loom out of reach of the heat from the manifold.

 

Full blend or plain rebuild. Depends on your funds today. You already have worked out the following I am sure but...If you intend to tune the nuts off it in the future don't do the job twice get the porting done. Not got the money now it'll have to be a std rebuild. It is not worth hanging on to find out the worst. £400 today or god knows how much next week. There are plenty of horror stories around about blown blowers.

 

Gavin

[potatonet 0]

I agree with gavin, yet I still neglect to get the charger fixed.... got to pass smog/MOT first.... I just failed...

 

on a happier note, I can claim 190bhp! but thats cause Ive spent 17000 US...... =-D, still lookin forward to that lysholm charger... =)

[Riley 0]

8) thanks again gavin,lysholm i wish potatonet? :lol:

 

ive been driving it today :oops: all seems ok for now,but on tickover it made the knocking noise again twice,and the power is still intermittent. :(

 

so im definately gonna have to sort the charger,i was just wondering how much of a gain there is between standard and full blend,its a couple hundred quid difference but i suppose the rsr outlet kit costs about £100 of that ???

 

would a new oil feed pipe be a good idea at the same time?

anything else?

 

and would the full blends be sat ready for delivery do ya think?

or is the work carried out on mine? :?

 

cheers,neil (about to get into more debt because i dont do things half ar$ed :lol: )

[gibber 0]

Riley I think a quick phone call to g-werks would answer most your questions.

Its only a 2 hour job to whip off the charger and to open it up and see what is going wrong.

All charger work is carried out on your charger if I recall!

 

My idle screw used to hiss wen it was would out too far to compensate for a sticking ISV.

[Riley 0]

cheers gibber,i was hoping darren might join in and give some good info for all to see?

 

ahh,idle screw wound out too far,ill try winding it in a bit and see what happens,and ive just thought...i have a 9a engine sat around that has the idle screw intact,may see if it fits.

 

cheers,neil.

[gibber 0]

Buy winding it in you will decrease you idle and it will stall, check that your ISV it working first!

 

Theres no saying when Darren shall grace us, but I for one have him on speed dial, always helpfull, and he hasnt even seen much of my money!

[Riley 0]

:lol:

 

in fact tommorows jobs are to clean isv,check out the air screw,and have a look at the lambda wiring.

 

according to my air/fuel gauge its running very rich but the co machine says bang on 0.5% :?

 

neil.

[gibber 0]

Wip out a plug and have a look at the colour, that will tell you how its running!

[potatonet 0]

hehe mine is black, but I have a new lambda sensor... can I adjust this? I think we said that it was messing with the CO pot that fixes the mixture. I have a stock chip too so I dont know why I would be getting bad milage and mixture.... =-( my ISV sticks too, got some carb cleaner for that got to do it this weekend... *tear* I need to fix this so that I can pass smog...