The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[Simon69 0]

Well 20hz is nice if it all goes boom ;) you should be able to diagnose what went wrong...

 

That explains the difference between the afr log and the afr table, I would do a little work on getting them closer together, it makes life easier if you can glance at a table and know that's more or less what the mill will see

 

I would have a chat with someone who knows the engine before going nuts with the ign, just because I think it's wrong is not enough as I lack that kind of knowledge on these engines (I'm mainly VW 16v and Subaru)

 

I would also get / make some det cans, it's pretty accepted in the industry that there is no real alternative to the human ear for picking up the tell tale "rattle" of det. Get yourself an old stethascope (sp?) a length of pipe and a piece of copper pipe. Flatten the end of the copper pipe and bolt it to the engine (block is best) force one end of the pipe onto the copper pipe and connect the other end to your stethascope (sp?)... And there you go, instant det cans for peanuts and they really do work just as well as anything else, just be a bit careful the first time you use them that your ready for the noise level lol...

 

As for the temp stuff, as you say, it sounds like you need a decent thermistor IAT (inlet air temp) sensor in the Manifold as it looks like the current one is heat soaking, I would suggest (logging) another IAT in the intake pipe before the air filter, this gives a nice indication of how well (or not...) the intercooling is working, heat soak, etc etc

 

As for tuning, I would imagine you already know this but just for info this is how I did most of the road tuning on the scoob's. First select a nice location, it should be reasonably safe, wide, straight, preferably not past the local school ;) then select a gear that your happy to "rev through" I use 4th because it takes longer and you get a better "picture" of things but 3rd would work if your concerned about the speed issue lol...

 

Connect everything up, put your det cans on then roll along at about 2500rpm in the gear your happy with, then floor it, just like a dyno run, keep it nailed till you hit the limiter then change up and let it slow down. Park up and check your log files. Try not to make too many changes at once, I would suggest maybe raising the whole ign map by one deg, save it to the ecu and do another run, pay close attention to the det cans, if it starts pinging abort the run and reduce ign in the area that was causing the trouble, if it's fine, park up, check the logs, add some more ign and go again, and again, and again lol repeat until the gas tank is quarter full or you get arrested...

 

Or you could just pay an expert like Vince to do it on his rollers!

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yes, the standard VW IAT just sits there heat soaking, ideally we need a proper K thermocouple like the EGT probe. But as the ECU needs the correct temp for fuelling, it's probably wise to put it in the manifold as that is the actual temp the cylinders will see, rather than the much colder air upstream of the throttle.

 

What you can do to help is follow the molecular air law. For every 10 deg increase / decrease in air temp, the oxygen density falls / rises 3%. So what I did was pull down the fuelling by 3% in each 10 deg row, starting from 40 deg. I have also taken out a degree of timing too. This covers a wide variety of situations (inc hot starting) and seems to work well. The Stock ECU will have been programmed in the same manner. I know the IAT isn't accurate when sitting there heatsoaking, but the ECU doesn't know that, so you have to oblige it 8)

 

On a fully warmed up motor and after a good few miles, my EGTs are 350-400 at idle, 550-600 cruising at 60mph, 750 crusing at 90mph, and 820-850 at wide open. I'm running 11psi.

 

Dave, have you calibrated your map sensor against a barometer? You need to tell the Squirt what the kpa value is at 5V. My 3 bar sensor is actually 276kpa, not 300-312kpa that some folk set them to. This is important if you are using a boost compensation map.

 

Timing. I have lots of it in the midrange and low rpms. On the meat of the boost I run 21 degrees, which gradually rises to 27 degrees. The "meat" is in the 3000rpm region with 75% throttle onwards. This is where we heard det on the rollers (using Simon's copper pipe method ;-) ) but strangely the motor couldn't get enough timing there after. It's down to my GT3071R spooling like mad so low down. My boost comp map takes out timing if the boost spikes and / or exceeds my target boost, but you can take timing out at any kpa you like. Probably safer to edge off the timing over summer perhaps. I'm using an open loop N75 valve map to control boost against load and rpm.

 

I use V power 99 ron.

 

Both the ECU and lambda controller have been set at 1/3 refresh, with 0V = 8 A/f to 5V equalling 16 A/F. I have allowed a 15% increase and 10% decrease.

I currently run closed loop across the entire rev range because I'm getting the DTA to tune the fuelling for me. Once I'm happy with it's adjustments, I'll switch off closed loop at 5000rpm and 85% throttle for safety - in case the probe fails. It's a slow process. Top gear presents significantly more load on the engine than the lower gears, so you have to be careful when choosing to accept the recommended fuel changes, especially if the recommendations are an irrational reduction in a high load cell!

 

How long is inlet tract Dave? Shortening it will give you more zing on boost. A long tract will improve bottom end. Could it be that you top end isn't feeling as zingy as you'd like because it's masked by bottom end response?

 

Once you get those MSD coils on, you can start playing with gapping and timing a bit more. I find the stock coilpack gives quite fluffy pedal. The MSDs give a harder attack on boost. Can't recommend them enough.

 

As Simon says, you need to start opening the taps mate and get a little 'Crazy' :lol:

[CrazyDave 0]

Wow! Great info. Thanks all.

 

I have Pre and post CC temperature already but ambient / inlet air is a good idea and easy to do.

 

Can's also sound like a much better idea, as knock sensors tend to be optimised for lower rev ranges. The human ear is fantastic. :)

 

The inlet tract is 72mm long so not that short but I suspect it will have trouble at lower rpm due to being approx 4 times shorter than the VW standard manifold.

 

All the sensors have been calibrated, thats one area I have lots of experience in (I'm happy to say!).

 

Coils are a must I think, although some decent leads would be a good start.

 

I really haven't given the top end much attention up to this point, I've been concentrating on getting the driveability as good as poss. I'm very pleased with the mid range and crawling in traffic is a dream compared to Motronic. 1000rpm in 2nd gear, no stumbling or jumping, just smooth accel, decel or steady speed.

 

But as you say, time to open the taps up!

 

Thanks again both, really helpfull :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Sorry, I meant the length of the turbo intake pipe, not intake tract, doh!

 

I've been experimenting with that and the longer it gets, the less "Punchy" the top end becomes, but the pay off is better manners in the low rpms (and less sucking noises!) I heard the compressor whistling for the first time in 5000 miles yesterday!

 

I have problems with detecting knock because forged pistons in the VR makes a noise that sounds just like det.....hmmmm. It's a leap of faith....

 

Your 1000rpm in 2nd behaviour is still what I'm working on! My mid range is fine, top end has a few flat spots (fuelling not right) but the low end is needs more finesse! Not helped by the juddery Helix clutch. I am dissapointed that hasn't smoothed off as per Helix's advice. Nevermind!

 

Another area I'm struggling with is rolling up to a lorry on a single carriageway, slowing down, then ever so gently kissing the throttle open again to maintain 56mph.....the A/f bounces all over the place during this and then eventually settles down. It's doing my noodle in!! I may need to get back on the rolling road I think....

 

Had another traffic moment yesterday. Normally I wouldn't care but in a VR turbo, it's fans on full, windows down and pray :lol:

Couldn't believe it. 25 degrees outside, crawled along for 1 hr 20 mins and the coolant stayed between 91 and 95 degrees and Intake air rose no higher than 45 degrees (no fan assistance on the pre rad), so I'm dead chuffed it passed the acid test this time round. Last time it failed miserably and I had to pull over and let it cool down, but that was before we did the fuel return looping.

[Simon69 0]

Crawling is traffic is the hardest bit to calibrate (map) so you should feel pleased with yourself for that!

 

Yea, forged pistons can sound like det lol... As you say, something of a "leap" but I do think it you fix the copper pipe to the block you should be able to differentiate, certainly you can on a scooby (with forged pistons so loose the damn thing sounded like a 50 year old tractor...)

 

One of the things you can do with the IAT (in the manifold) apart from using a proper fast acting thermister of course, is to insulate the thing. Most of the race builders use a heat insulating plug so help with the heat soak. i.e. drill an tap the manifold for the IAT but do it like M20+, then have a phenolic "plug" turned up with a M20+ external thread to go in the manifold. Then drill / tap the phenolic for your thermistor, viola vastly reduced heat soak, most of the WRC teams do it this way and they are up around 4bar MAP

 

At 56 (I guess in 5th (6th?)) your pretty low down the rev range, how is the DTA measuring things at that rpm, TPS or MAP? (or a combination of both?) If MAP how long (and what ID) is the pipe, a long pipe can cause something similar on scoob's.

 

Are you using the 100mm entry turbo with the anti surge cut-outs?

[CrazyDave 0]

Boost pipework is pretty short, so the repsonse is good, seems to come on very quick when you open the throttle anyway. But I have a run of pipe behind the radiator that needs lagging as it seems to soak quite a bit of heat due to the charge cooler radiator fan blowing through the main rad.

 

I've tried switching to simultanious injection tonight, the AFR seems much more stable, it was set for two squirts alternating. I'll give that a try for a day or so and see if things feel any better. Also added a bit more filtering to the map sensor input.

 

Traffic is just one of those things these days, but I know what you mean, everything starts to roast nicely! Since doing all the work to mine it seems to hold at around 90-95 all the time. The Spal fan just kicks in and pulls the temp down really quickly.

[ziderapple 0]

One for Kev and Dave I think, my car has developed a fault where it loses power for a second or two, usually at low speed, second or third gear. It has literally just started in the last few days, but I went out for a good blat today, and it didnt do it. I've not got access to VAG-COM till next weekend. The only time I can liken it to is when my MAF failed and the ECU when to fail safe mode, it's just not as bad, annoying though, and probably the start of a permanate problem. 8 psi vortech, otherwise boggo standard.

[CrazyDave 0]

Hi Chris,

could be any of the usual VR failings.

 

Might actually be coil pack? They start off with those kinds of faults, and only when the weather is just right (ie a bit damp like its been lately).

 

Next time it does it have a look at the coil pack and see if you can see it tracking or hear it even.

 

Hope this helps.

 

PS Are you coming to the joint Bristol / Worcester meet on 1st July?

[NickVR6 0]

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurg, Brain fry

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Crawling is traffic is the hardest bit to calibrate (map) so you should feel pleased with yourself for that!

 

Thanks chap. I'm glad that bit is sorted as there's nothing like pulling over and lifting the bonnet to add a dash of embarrassment to one's day :lol:

 

Yea, forged pistons can sound like det lol... As you say, something of a "leap" but I do think it you fix the copper pipe to the block you should be able to differentiate, certainly you can on a scooby (with forged pistons so loose the damn thing sounded like a 50 year old tractor...)

 

Yeah the copper pipe is still there from the last mapping session, but something the Cosworth techies used to do was connect a pair of headphones direct to a knock sensor. Works a treat apparently. I'll give it a bash at some point, but tbh, I know the engine so well that I can actually hear and feel det. Having a very quiet exhaust helps too 8) There's no load related det at all, the only time I have heard a single "clack" was the result of a boost spike after a fast change from 3rd to 4th, so I knocked the timing back in the boost comp map accordingly.

I'm using Wossner forged pistons, which only have 25-30 thou wall clearance, compared to 45-50 thou for JE pistons! So they're pretty quiet little puppies....moly coated skirts too, nice 8)

 

One of the things you can do with the IAT (in the manifold) apart from using a proper fast acting thermister of course, is to insulate the thing. Most of the race builders use a heat insulating plug so help with the heat soak. i.e. drill an tap the manifold for the IAT but do it like M20+, then have a phenolic "plug" turned up with a M20+ external thread to go in the manifold. Then drill / tap the phenolic for your thermistor, viola vastly reduced heat soak, most of the WRC teams do it this way and they are up around 4bar MAP

 

Good skills! That's definitely something worth looking at I think. Things have been better since using the Air temp compensation map to trim the fuelling and timing against heat, but once the car is back up to speed again, everything cools down and behaves itself again.

 

At 56 (I guess in 5th (6th?)) your pretty low down the rev range, how is the DTA measuring things at that rpm, TPS or MAP? (or a combination of both?) If MAP how long (and what ID) is the pipe, a long pipe can cause something similar on scoob's.

 

My map is TPS v RPM + pressure compensation. I haven't tried a MAP v RPM map yet, but I know of people who have and it can cause bucking at low rpms. TPS is generally better behaved, but not quite as responsive as MAP or MAF as main load.

There is also a software fault in the P8Pro ECU which stops the Fuel correction map working if you use MAP as load. They're not going to fix it as it's an obsolete ECU now, but it's been sorted in the S series ECUs.

Vac line to the MAP sensor is approx 70 or so cms long I reckon and about 6- 7mm bore. Would it be worth moving the MAP sensor closer to the engine to allow a shorter run?

It may also be my throttle body, which is an OBD2 one with a huge ramp in it to speed up gas flow for low rpm smoothness and torque. It might be that as I'm coming down from high load and rpm to a very small throttle opening and almost no load, the ramp is mucking up the air flow a tad.

 

Are you using the 100mm entry turbo with the anti surge cut-outs?

 

100mm entry, yes, anti-surge, unfortunately no. I did want the GT3076R (aka "GT30R") orginally, which has the anti-surge compressor housing, but I was sent the smaller GT3071R instead, which has a plain housing.

Do you think that anti-surging housing would help matters? If so I have no qualms in getting a GT3076!

I do like the silly quick spooling of the 3071 though :-)

[Simon69 0]

I would imagine your 3071 must spool very early on a big old VR, nearly 3lt is plenty of exhaust putt's to spin its little wheel up! I have the 3076R duel ball bearing with the anti surge housing, I've used it on 2lt and 2.5lt scooby engines, it is a good turbo, the anti surge housing upsets MAF sensors though ;) too much reversion! I would not be able to say yes / no to how much "better" the other housing would be, I've never "back to back" tested them on the same engine / set-up.

 

Interesting comments on the TPS / MAP, I would certainly try moving the sensor closer (beware too hot of course) but much more than that, I'd reduce the hose ID down to 2 or 3mm. My experience to date suggests that anything you can do to get sensors closer to what they are sensing is good for increased control. Not sure about your throttle, it certainly could have an effect, I guess you've not tried bolting a stock one on?

 

You have to use the air temp comp map, crazy not to, espesh with a damn great heater (turbo) plumbed into the inlet system. I really don't understand these people that don't use any air temp comp, usually the same people the put an open air filer in the engine bay behind the water rad "because it's better for performance man..." idiots!

 

I have a feeling the last time I was up at Vince's your car was there being re-done having lunched the JE's, I remember having a natter about the Wossner's at the time, they looked pretty good. It would be interesting to try giving them some det and see how they respond (of course I'm not saying you should try this lol...), I've tried "tight" forged pistons before (Ross Racing) and they were exceptional (I det'd the hell out of them and they were fine). For what it's worth I don't personaly like JE's very much, every car I've had the misfortune to have to work on or calibrate with JE's always turned up with problems, not always the pistons causing the problems but trying to calibrate it with them rattling away is no fun

 

You speak my language Mr Cheesewire, I too like smooth controlled power coupled with good chassis balance to go blasting down the B roads ;) At present I'm trying to decide between getting a manifold and bolting it (the 3076) onto my VR or pulling the V6 and using a 2lt 16v (still with the 3076 of course) as I really like the idea of loosing 50+kg's from the front...

 

Do you have an LSD and or 6 speed fitted?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I do indeed have a quaife ATB, but no 6 speeder unfortunately, just the stock 5 cog 02A with the lower final drive from the G60. Acceleration is pretty vivid, at the sacrifice of grip and top end, neither of which bother me as instant punch is what I'm in the turbo game for.

 

The quaife needs learning how to use effectively. The combination of low gearing and a quick spooling turbo can overwhelm it's valiant attempts to contain it, but only in the lower gears and in the wet, usually coming off diesel soaked intersection roundabouts. In the dry it's quite the grippy little sod....the tyres only protesting momentarily in 2nd with brutal throttle openings.

 

Having owned both a 16V turbo and a VR turbo, I'd say go with the VR T. Mainly for the reason you stated at the beginning.....all that exhaust gas to spin the turbo 8) And more capacity to give the motor some high speed legs too. The valver does turbo well, very smooth and punchy.

I don't find the nose weight of the VR to be a problem, there are ways to rid it of understeer if that's your primary concern.....but bear in mind the weight it does have is in the right place to aid traction off the line. My valver turbo used to just sit there spinning if I was careless with the gas.....the VRT does a little, but it hooks up and accelerates away a lot sooner.

 

Yeah I lost a block with the JEs. Cylinder 6 was scored. I know why too. We dynoed it too soon after it's build and the excessive heat caused the rings to hit some high spots that hadn't been bedded down fully.

I should learn to trust my instincts more because something didn't seem right with the JEs from the start, oh well, you live and learn!

 

Yes I've seen some air filters in the most ridiculous of places and on n/a motors which need all the cold air they can get!

Doesn't matter on my engine, and in fact, if I do use a cold air feed the motor feels less lively. I've just got a BMC pointing at the headlight. It's noisy, but effective.

 

Yeah there's sense behind your reasoning with sensor location, for example my missus Rover 25 has it's map sensor bolted directly onto the intake manifold. Can't get much more responsive than that! I do really like the Rover K series and the little 1400 motor is the sweetest of them all imo. I bet they turbo darn well too. Head has excellent flow.....which it's what's next on mine....a big valve and gasket matched head. I want to make the most grunt with the least amount of boost.

I shall try moving the MAP sensor a bit closer and see if it helps, can't hurt to try, cheers for the tips!

I'm working on refitting the standard throttle, it needs spacing by 30mm and 'a man' is on the case with that 8)

 

I like the 3071R, designed for the mitsi Evo for getting the boost without the lag apparently. Despite having a smaller compressor than the 76, it's still enough for 475hp, which I think is just about enough for a daily car, LOL! It does work well on the VR and for my needs it's a good match as I prefer quick spooling. The torque curve looks like table top mountain. Climbs hard from 2000rpm and stays there till the bitter end 8)

 

I am keen on trying Dave's car though because originally, he ordered the 3071R and I ordered the "GT30R" (aka 3076R), but we got the opposites! So I'm keen to see what the difference a 5mm bigger compressor wheel makes as theoretically, our turbos are identical, bar the c/wheel. I might still go up to the 3076 some day, or maybe a GT35 with 0.63 exhaust A/R.... but that's half the fun with turbos. Once you have a solid motor and good management, you can chop and change till your heart's content!

[Simon69 0]

As you say, once the "building blocks" are in place you can just "play" until you hit your own personal "sweet spot". I have the 0.6 and the 0.8 exhaust housings, got them both when I ordered the main unit, used to swap the bu**ers back and forth on my scooby lol I blew one of my 2lt's to bits with the 0.8 unit. I had the fuel an ign working nice so just kept adding boost a bit at a time ;) got it running 3.41bar MAP and was doing a 5th gear run (6 speed box) when number 3 rod bent and that broke the piston! Trouble was, the motor was turning 7800rpm at the time so it made a bit of a mess LOL... made me jump too!

 

I think with turbo's you kind of have to have a power figure in mind when you start then you can kind of "match" your components up a bit. Otherwise you get what I'd call the "yank mentality" were they all want 2 million wheel hp so they fit a turbo the size of a dustbin lid that's designed for a 7lt circle track car...

 

Certainly (I would say) for a daily (front) driver 300hp / 300ft.lbs is more than enough for 80% of situations but it's nice to be able to crank the boost in the higher gears for when you just HAVE to hit 160+ ;) As you say, most of the time it's about fast spool and a flat torque curve

 

Have to agree with you on the little Rover, have driven a few (mainly in the back of Elise's) and they really like to sing, have you tried an S2000? No bl**dy torque but bu**er me they like to rev :) Took one up the freeway with a supercharger on and it was pretty damn good, would love to try a turbo one.

 

I would try moving your MAP sensor closer, also make the pipe ID smaller, I would say 6 - 7mm is too big, 2 - 3mm is plenty. We tried those BMC's but found they gave too much inlet depression, have you tried a manometer just in front of the turbo entrance to measure it? That could be why yours feels "flat" when you put a duct onto the front.

 

Totally agree about most grunt for minimum boost, get the efficiency up and your putting less heat into the intake and just running everything so much sweeter.

 

You make a good point about the VR weight, I too have had 16v T (in a Scirocco) and I had to put a fair amount of work into getting it to "hook-up" I was working for Spax at the time though and it was kind of fun "picking" all the technical brains, I got a lot out of it anyway lol

 

I am fortunate in that I have a Gemini 6MT with Quaife and I concur with your comments about "learning to drive it" again!

 

Have you considered going to Haldex?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You and I will be being accused of forming a "clique" soon :lol:

 

Haldex - Yeah I have considered 4x4 but to be perfectly honest, I would rather buy a car that was 4WD to begin with. Reason being I detest working underneath cars (and interiors, wiring etc) and I wouldn't enjoy the conversion work. I like the way the Corrado FWD chassis behaves anyway, so I wouldn't want to ruin it's character by giving it tonnes of traction....that's just cheating :lol:

 

The quaife struggling with too much torque is far too much fun to give up 8)

 

Spoke to Mr Schimmel about my "GT30R" because it's different to Dave's and he said he orders the same GT30 for all VR6s, but Garrett keep changing the designs, so you don't know what you'll end up with, but it *should* be a GT3076R in theory.... but less the AS housing in my case.

I'll measure the comp wheel to be sure.

 

Interesting about the BMC. I did wonder if the internal funnelling would cause a restriction but to be honest, I find the BMC a little more responsive than a regular K&N filter.....but then again I'm not running 35psi boost like you were on your Scooby ;-)

 

Cheers for the MAP sensor tips. I think it's a common or garden GM 3 bar job, having come from the states, and it has a big hose port, at least 6mm ID, so I won't be able to get 2-3mm bore hose over that easily! I'll try moving it closer to the lump as you suggested first and see how that pans out.

 

"Yank mentality". They sure do have their 'ways' don't they? They build to win, rather than drive. Their way of mapping is loads of fuel + loads of advance to make the numbers, which is all well and good when you don't have to pay £1.04p for a litre of the good stuff, but we've obviously found that more sensible, leaner fuelling and less aggressive timing makes more power and gives a better, daily usable engine without smoking other road users to death with excessive CO2. Classic example is my dyno plots near the start of the thread of my S/C VR, American code (GIAC) versus british code (Stealth).

 

"Have to hit 160+" LOL. I wish. No chance of that with my Final Drive. 157 is my maximum if I wring it round to 7000rpm.... but I've hit the limiter in 5th at 6500rpm, giving 146mph (GPS), 160 on the speedo (LOL!).

If I had the standard FD, 173mph is possible, again at 7000rpm....but would you really want to do 173mph in an 80s VW with pathetic brakes?! No thanks!!

So yeah. I can chase 911s up to 140 ish, but there after they've got all the cake and can eat it. However, blitzing them from 70 to 100 is a point well made I feel and no need to continue on to license losing numbers ;-)

 

Not keen on the regular 1800 K series. It's OK, but a little unrefined for my tastes. The VVC one is good though. It's actually one of the torquiest 16V NA engines I've tried.

Yeah had a brief stint in an early S2000 and Civic Type R. The Civic really has got a watered down version of the VTEC hasn't it?! The one in the S2000 is miles better, but it's power delivery just isn't my cup of tea. It's fun for 10 minutes wringing it out, but cruise along on the freeway at 70 in top gear and you get blown away by Golf TDIs. It does handle brilliantly though and is really well made.

I grew out of peaky engines in my Golf 16V days. I'm far lazier now and don't enjoy having to work for my acceleration, I'd rather just flex a toe and not care what gear I'm in :lol:

 

Anyway, ramble ramble.....

 

So are you going to stick a 76 onto your VR then? That's the question?!! have you still got your scoobs?

[CrazyDave 0]

Sorrys guys, been on hols for a week! Just had to spend an hour reading through to catch up.

 

Well I could read this stuff all day long :)

 

As usual I've been driving the family 1.8t Flog... blimey it feels flat as a pancake after the C :lol: Get building that VRT Simon! You know you want to :lol:

 

Just something about the 6 cylinder sound with a turbine whistle added to it. Great soundtrack (but refined and quiet).

 

Never liked the idea of hacking a car up for 4WD, I know a few have done it on here. Getting the alignment spot on must be really critical or the thing just won't handle correctly.

 

Maybe when mine gets a bit older, I'd like to mid engine it, but only rear drive, much more fun that way (I'm thinking sideways, vr engine howl and turbo....Mmmmmm Heaven! :shock: :shock: )

 

The 3076R does spool a little later than the 3071 by the sound of it, but I still haven't been out it Kev's car and vica versa. Very pleased with the way the '76 spools though, not aggressive but strong. But maybe that'll change when I get the mapping sorted.

 

Huge list of minor niggles to sort, then it's got to go on the rollers I think.

 

AIT Sensor from a 1.8t, mounted just post TB directly in the airstream.

 

Performance plug leads. MSD coilpacks if things don't improve with the leads alone.

 

Direct coilpack (either OE pack without the dwell unit or MSD) control with MegaSquirt box, but I'll need to sort out a driver board as it only has two high power coil drivers built in. So dwell can be then be done by the MS aswell.

 

I'd really like to try the OE manifold back on, just to see what the difference is, but need to work out some alternative pipework?

 

Chargecooler fan, electric coolant and radiator fan control box (to replace the failing OE unit). Bit of electronics to control all this lot, can't be doing having to do things manually.

 

Kev, did you get one of the heat shields from ATP? Cos mine fell off the other week! Made a right rattle like the exhaust had come loose, but the weld had broken and it had dropped down between the bulkhead and downpipe.

 

Have to agree with you both on the VTEC, great fun for a bit, but really hard work all that revving all the time.

[Simon69 0]

LOL @ Kev, naa Dave's back, it's a m

[StormchargedVR6 0]

Heres a set up for you guys, savage motorsports twin turbo header. This is one for Kev :lol:

 

complete-back-1.jpg[/attachment:5888c]

[ziderapple 0]

Some very impressive kit on their website.

I've been having thoughts, was wondering if there is a chargecooler I could plumb in to the Vf kit, I've been thinking about chopping must of the inlet pipe away and fitting a chargecooler in, fix it in with two samco coupler's and a bracket to support it.... must be one that'll fit with a high enough charged air flow rating...

 

Your thoughts please FI guru's.

 

Thanks.

[StormchargedVR6 0]

I think it is possible chris , try here http://www.advancedvehicletuning.co.uk . I looked in to it, it would be tight.

[KADVR6 0]

hi chris,

 

i have been looking into the charge coolers mate, and i think that the 4" x 6" or maybe the 4" x 8" from PWR will fit betwwen the charger outlet, and the throttle body, me and crazydave were looking at it when we met not so long ago. he has the chargecooler on he's turbo'd corrado and he is very happy with it.

 

one day i will be popping down to PWR and trying one for size, but here is the link for them http://www.advancedvehicletuning.co.uk/ ... Path=21_22

 

karl

[KADVR6 0]

damn, you beat me to it Shaun :)

[StormchargedVR6 0]

Karl , check this out on Ebay.de . not bad mani mate

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf1280_6235396434626538.jpg[/attachment:9deb1]1280_3532643861313664.jpg[/attachment:9deb1]

[ziderapple 0]

I had been browsing that very website before posting, I'm sure one would fit, just the air flow rating I'm not sure on, Vortech's website claims a max air flow of 800 CFM for the V9 (1000 for the V1), but it also says you can extract 20psi from the V9 which I think we can all agree is horse schitt, so I'm guessing a chargecooler wont need to be rated to 800CFM. Its just finding out how much they really do displace.... Rather crude calculation:

(800

[KADVR6 0]

there is also this one chris http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Water-to-Air-Turb ... dZViewItem

 

very similar to the schimmel in design/looks, but can anyone with the schimmel tell me if it says anything about if the cooler can be used vertically, or does it need to be fitted horizontally??

 

cheers

 

karl :)

[StormchargedVR6 0]

there is also this one chris http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Water-to-Air-Turb ... dZViewItem

 

very similar to the schimmel in design/looks, but can anyone with the schimmel tell me if it says anything about if the cooler can be used vertically, or does it need to be fitted horizontally??

 

cheers

 

karl :)

Why would you want vertically, it fits a treat where the battery went :roll: