2.0 16v A new candidate for the fault

[bcstudent 0]

Can anyone provide me with the part number for a 2.0 16v Corrado ignition coil please? Also it would be handy to know if any other cars in the VW range share the same coil.

 

A little background...

 

I've got a friend's Corrado in the drive that has a running issue when cold and damp. The car always starts and idles fine, whatever the weather, but if left to stand in the rain or overnight with a damp morning the car splutters badly under acceleration until things warm up/dry out. So far the car has had a new distributor and ignition amplifier on the advice of her local garage, which failed to make a difference.

 

The spluttering is so severe that it appears whatever's giving up is common to all cylinders, be it fuel starvation or ignition. Thanks to the search I have a whole list of things to check but funds are limited! The coil is my next best guess unless anyone has a better idea.

 

Thanks in advance :)

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Check the coil tower/ht lead going into the coil,almost always covered in green rubbish,i've used both green label G60 and yellow label/sticker coils on my 2.0 G60.16v motor,they both work fine.

[bcstudent 0]

I'll be sure to take a look. Thanks.

[bcstudent 0]

Ok, update time...

 

I may have found the cold running problem this evening. My first post about this was based on information from the owner; I only drove the car for the first time tonight. It was immediately clear that the engine was only getting 3/4 wide open throttle and after adjusting the throttle cable I had a poke around. It didn't take long to notice that the rubber, errrrr, 'thing' that connects the fuel metering head to the pipe leading to the throttle body/inlet manifold had become hard and split in several places. I'm hoping this is the problem.

 

However, whilst driving the car I notice that the speedo/revs seemed a bit out. I may be imagining this but can anyone with a 2.0 16v confirm that 60mph in 5th gear is an indicated 2750rpm....or not?

 

Cheers :)

[Supercharged 2]

BC, Halfords are currently selling Lucas coils at stupid prices, I picked up a G60 one for a fiver, may well be the same for yours...

[bcstudent 0]

Cheers for that Supercharged but the car seemed absolutely fine this morning after bodging up the inlet air hoses. After being quoted £65 + VAT for the split parts I ended up getting a set in good condition for a tenner at my local VW breakers today. If that doesn't fix it I'll be heading to Halfords.

 

I'd still love to know what RPM equates to 60mph in 5th in a standard 2.0 16v Corrado though....

[steve_16v 0]

On the way to work I did 60 in 5th and it was bang on 2750rpm (standard 2.0 16v)

[mrbeige 0]

2750rpm does seem about right matey

[bcstudent 0]

Well that's one mystery solved then, thanks chaps.

 

Unfortunately the loss of power and surging from cold when there's moisture in the air is on going. Replacing the split intake pipes has made the car run a lot better but only after it gets past its cold running problem.

 

I just drove the car up the road and it's still got the problem. The car has sat in the drive for about four hours so it's had time to completely cool down. There's also been some very fine rain coming down for about half an hour. The car starts with no throttle and idles perfectly. It also revs in neutral or with the cluch absolutely fine. The problem occurs when trying to accelerate. It's like the ignition is being turned off until you dip the clutch and rev it. This happens for about 1/8 of a mile then it's fine.

 

It makes no logical sense.

[sciroccotune 0]

Assuming no moisture in dizzy have a look at the WOT switch.. Can’t remember how to test however.

 

does it only happen with full throttle etc..

[bcstudent 0]

No, you don't get a chance to use full throttle. As soon as you attempt to accelerate the engine just completely holds back. It feels like an ignition problem because if you keep you foot on the throttle it occasionally backfires and leaps forward before dieing again. It doesn't take long to regain its composure and drive ok but it's dangerous while the problem is there.

 

Anybody know where the diagnostic socket is on a 2.0 16v Corrado?

[sciroccotune 0]

Hmm an odd one for sure! Over fuelling when cold?? I guess vag com could tell you if there is a sensor fault, but is fairly basic on a 9a

[bcstudent 0]

The thing is it's not just when cold. I drove it in the dry this morning from cold and it was fine. It only started playing up when the rain started, despite everything under the bonnet being dry at that point.

 

I have access to VAG-COM so as soon as I find out where the socket is I'll see what it tells me. Damn cars.

[sciroccotune 0]

Hmm so mainly from wet, may be worth getting the ecu out and examining it as I hear they can leak sometimes, also may be worth spraying every contact you can find with some contact cleaner. Do cheap things first. I still think that vag com would be able to show a sensor short, one of the ccgb guys did it for me so may be worth a go is your friend is going to ed38

[Jim 2]

Have you replaced ALL the HT leads? It sounds like a classic example of a knackered one of those getting some kind of moisture in it.. my old mans Merc was doing the same thing when we had some heavy wet weather earlier in the year, and a new set of leads sorted it out!

 

Just the sheer amount of moisture in the air will effect it.. they don't need to get directly wet.

 

Might be worth, when its dry and working, starting the engine and spraying some water mist over the leads and seeing what happens..

[bcstudent 0]

Judging by the time you posted, you may have missed my edit above. I do have access to VAG-COM but have no clue where the diagnostic socket lives!

[sciroccotune 0]

its under the gear selector cover, lift it up and you will see the connector on the left (near where the dash meets the gear thing) :-)

[bcstudent 0]

Have you replaced ALL the HT leads?

 

At this stage none of the leads have been replaced since the problem is definitely common to all cylinders. I can probably find a spare coil-to-distributor lead in the shed to rule that one out but replacing all the leads is just too expensive as a possible cure. What's annoying me about this problem is that it just makes no sense!

 

Might be worth, when its dry and working, starting the engine and spraying some water mist over the leads and seeing what happens..

 

I tried this earlier and it made no difference unfortunately. It's really hard to diagnose the fault because it only occurs under load in the rain for a short period.

[bcstudent 0]

its under the gear selector cover, lift it up and you will see the connector on the left (near where the dash meets the gear thing) :-)

 

I can see two connectors, both two-pin - one black and one white. Sound right?!

[dazzyvr6 0]

them are the ones...the only way you can rule things out is to replace them,perhaps off another corrado that you know is running right,i doubt vag com will tell you anything to be honest

[bcstudent 0]

Yeah, I doubt it too but there's only one way to find out...

[sciroccotune 0]

you could use your leads on the 2l as far a i know mate..

[bcstudent 0]

Well, surprise surprise, the ECU had one fault code stored. I have no idea when it was stored but it said:

 

00587 Adjustment limit mixture regulation intermittent...adaption limit not reached

 

According to the book one of the possible causes is the cold start injector. I've cleared the code and will just have to see if it returns next time the car plays up.

 

With respect to using the 1.8 16v leads on the 2.0, I notice that there's an inductive pick-up on the lead nearest the distributor on the 2.0. I can't remember seeing that on the 1.8. What's that all about, and does it mean that I can only use three of the 1.8 leads?

 

Thanks for all the replies so far by the way :)

[Jim 2]

That pickup lead is apparently something to do with a knock sensor.. I believe if you buy the correct leads from the stealer you can remove the end of the HT lead and thread that loop over. But at least for testing purposes, you should be able to leave it un-attached if you just want to try the leads from your valver.

 

I never actually reattached that sensor after I swapped leads on my 2.0 16v (bought el cheapo ECP ones and couldnt see how to get the damn thing on them) and it ran fine.. but obviously bodging like that isn't the best way of doing it!

[bcstudent 0]

Ah ha, excellent info mon ami. It shall be disconnected, at least for testing purposes!