VSR troubles again

[TREVR6 0]

Hello peeps.

 

VSR problems again, it's a 93 vr6 with a vw motorsport VSR and the vacume operated flap is permanantly open The vacume hose that operates it is permanantly sucking like a whore on double time! The flap operates freely enough by hand. My suspicions lie with the little valve thing behind the "ball cock vacume tank thingy" I presume this is conected to an engine speed sensor somwhere down the line and should switch vacume on to the flap at 4k. Any one had dealings with one, cuold it just be full of crap, are they the same valve on a shriek vsr, how much etc. Or do you think I am barking up the wrong tree?

Recently been remaped, hope that hasn't affected it, shurley not!

 

Please help, track day in a week, could do with the old girl on top form!

[MoonlightVR 0]

Get on to Vince at Stealth. It could be the valve on the top (or it's connection with the flap) of the VSR at fault.

[TREVR6 0]

Now I'm really confused. After further investigation it all appears to be working but the wrong way round. ie below 4000rpm there is suction and the flap is open, and above 4000rmp the valve switches and the flap shuts. This is wrong isn't it??????? Tried reversing the polarity of the wires on the valve but that didn't make any difference. Thinking now it could be to do with the re map but I'm just guessing cos ecu's and electrics aren't my strong point. Any speculation welcomed!

[MoonlightVR 0]

Who did the remap?

Was the original chip in the ECU remapped or is it a piggy back chip?

[TREVR6 0]

Was done by Motorsport Developments in Blackpool, yea it's a piggy! I've still got the chip that was in (had already been chiped years ago but I've just got a big tb and a new exhaust set up) I'm gonna try putting that back in and see what happens.

[Dutch24V 0]

...sorry to jump in here on your thread Trev,

 

Asim, could you send me a picture of where the unichip was spliced into your loom as I'm not really sure where the best place to cut into it is??

 

The loom wiring under the scuttle cover that connects to the ECU is very short and awkward to get at and I can't seem to remove the ECU either for access? I believe my ECU is located differently to the RHD car too as it's on the left side of the wiper area as you look at it from the front!?

 

Cheers,

Dutch

[TREVR6 0]

Asim, could you send me a picture of where the unichip was spliced into your loom as I'm not really sure where the best place to cut into it is??

 

No loom butchering was done mate, the ecu has had a socket put in in place of the original chip, so now the chip just plugs in instead of being soldered in. Installing a socket is a job for someone who's done it before though, very easy to knacker your ecu.

[Dutch24V 0]

Trev,

 

I presume you have an early dizzy VR then?

 

I have the later *AG* ECU coil packed VR and hence the original chip that comes with the VSR doesn't work (have you still got this chip Asim?).

 

Stealth Racing provided a solution by the way of a unichip and a VTEC controller that opens the flap at 4000. This has to be hacked into the loom though. I'm no mechanic or electrician come to it so am not sure where to hack the loom!?

This also prevents the ECU from having to be opened up and as the remap sits on the unichip, so it's easy to reverse to OE.

 

Dutch

[TREVR6 0]

Yea it is a dizzy engine. Just put my other chip in tonight and the vsr works a treat. Looks like another trip to the re mappers. After further investigation the wires from the vsr control valve go straight into the ecu. As for your set up I'm not to sure what your best bet is. Try opening your own thread as the people who know may not have spotted your question in this one. Hope this rather vague info is of some help.

[Dutch24V 0]

Thanks Trev but I already have a wiring diagram from Asim, so I know what wires to hack into what, but I can't find a suitable location to hack into the original loom to start with.

 

I'm going to remove the ECU this weekend and hack into the loom as close to it as posible. That way all wiring in the engine bay remains as is, which I presume is the best bet.

 

Apparently there are 2 red wires in the loom though, which is where I'm confused as Asims wiring instructions refer to a top one and a bottom one, but guess that's relative to the car concerned. Not sure what these red wires do also so hence not sure what will happen if I wire the unichip the wrong way round??

 

Guess I'll find out soon enough...

 

Dutch

[Kevin Bacon 5]

DutchVR6, Are you using the pale blue Schrick controller?

 

Red/blue wire (pin 23) feeds power to the controller.

Black/Green wire (pin 22) is the rpm signal for the controller.

Ground the controller to a nearby earth point.

 

Unclip the ECU plug (pull the handle toward you), cut the tie wrap off the boot and slide boot back to expose the wires. Splice (with solder) the controller wires as close to the pins as possible and keep the wire runs for the controller short.

[Dutch24V 0]

Kev, No!

 

The solution Vince came up with is a Dastek Unichip. This controls the vacuum actuator thingy for the green vacuum reseviour at 4000rpm and also provides the remap for fuelling etc.

 

I have the wiring instructions from Asim, but he states that 2 red wires in the loom have to be cut and refers to them as the upper and lower red wires.

I presume these red wires are for controlling the fuelling as the unichip must be plumbed into these. The other couple of wires that need to be spliced only I guess will be providing a signal from the speed contrller and power??

 

Anyhow, my concern is connecting the unichip to the red wires the wrong way round, as 'upper' and 'lower' sound relative to me??

 

Is there a full description of all the wires in the loom in the Bentley?

 

Kev, I didn't want to locate the Unichip in the engine bay due to heat/water issues etc. so was planning to cut into the loom as close to the ECU as possible. Does that sound like a good idea as you recomend to cut into it as close to the multipin connector as possible??

[Dutch24V 0]

Sorry Kev, misread your last email and note that you mean as close to the ecu as possible, not the multipin connector in the engine bay!! :oops: