Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
selbekk

rubber boot on cv joints fecked

Recommended Posts

I've just priced up VR6 Outer CV boot kit from the Dealers, £19.40 each in stock, not too bad I think as they'll probably last the life of the car, pattern ones I've had before have split after a year or so.

 

AVS do Febi ones for £9 each, anyone recommend? I would probably order from AVS if I didn't need it by saturday.

 

AVS do 'Meyle' CV joints for £30, I know they're German but is there quality good?

 

 

i paid £17 for a complete cv joint kit from GSF inc new boot, grease, clips, bolts,circlip and nuts. ditched the clips for the boot - why are they so hard to fit ?? - and stuck a couple of cable ties on. took an hour or so to do on the drive.

 

Have Never found the boot clips hard to fit-I think they sell special pliers for them though, have always managed ok by hand.

 

Not sure about cable ties mate - if they break or loosen you are screwed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

CV boot requires:

hub nut undone (v tight - need a big breaker bar for this)

two bottom suspension bolts removed to allow hub to be swung out enough to remove outer cv shaft from hub (mark bolt positions on susp leg)

 

Does anyone know what sizes these are? iv got to do the CV tommorow but i cant get to the car to measure them (iv got to get a socket for them)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

See this thread, tools for specific jobs -

 

viewtopic.php?f=45&t=86243

 

Suspension strut bolts can be 18mm or 19mm, so you really need both a spanner & a socket in both sizes (or two sockets) if the bolt spins.

 

30mm Driveshaft nut can be 6 point or 12, take hub cap off to check.

 

 

CV boot requires:

hub nut undone (v tight - need a big breaker bar for this)

two bottom suspension bolts removed to allow hub to be swung out enough to remove outer cv shaft from hub (mark bolt positions on susp leg)

 

Does anyone know what sizes these are? iv got to do the CV tommorow but i cant get to the car to measure them (iv got to get a socket for them)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've just priced up VR6 Outer CV boot kit from the Dealers, £19.40 each in stock, not too bad I think as they'll probably last the life of the car, pattern ones I've had before have split after a year or so.

 

AVS do Febi ones for £9 each, anyone recommend? I would probably order from AVS if I didn't need it by saturday.

 

AVS do 'Meyle' CV joints for £30, I know they're German but is there quality good?

 

A word of warning - I fitted the GSF CV joint (GKN/Lobro) but used a VAG plastic CV boot with the proper metal clips, a week later i noticed that grease is flying out a little bit from one point (the largest clip end) it seems that they are not a very good fit on the GSF joints, the clip is 'pinching' the boot causing a tiny gap for grease to fly out of- not good. Wonder if I should of stuck with the GSF soft rubber boot?

 

Any ideas for sorting this? all I can think of is removing the clip, cleaning up the sealing area then putting a little silicone inside the gap before replacing the clip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
See this thread, tools for specific jobs -

 

viewtopic.php?f=45&t=86243

 

Suspension strut bolts can be 18mm or 19mm, so you really need both a spanner & a socket in both sizes (or two sockets) if the bolt spins.

 

30mm Driveshaft nut can be 6 point or 12, take hub cap off to check.

 

 

CV boot requires:

hub nut undone (v tight - need a big breaker bar for this)

two bottom suspension bolts removed to allow hub to be swung out enough to remove outer cv shaft from hub (mark bolt positions on susp leg)

 

Does anyone know what sizes these are? iv got to do the CV tommorow but i cant get to the car to measure them (iv got to get a socket for them)

 

I forgor about that thread, I was only reading it the other week, cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've one from AVS on my valver, looks like it's very similar material to the plastic used on VAG ones (rathe than rubber) so should last well, definitely avoid the glue together ones.

 

CV boot requires:

hub nut undone (v tight - need a big breaker bar for this)

two bottom suspension bolts removed to allow hub to be swung out enough to remove outer cv shaft from hub (mark bolt positions on susp leg)

then you have to tap off the out cv joint from the main shaft

slide new boot onclean up cv joint

repack with crease and ressemble everything making sure you get the right camber by putting the bottom suspension bolts back in the same marked position

 

messy job, CV grease, but it's not difficult

 

I like taking CV joints and bearings apart to clean them, it's a nice little puzzle reassembling them :lol:

 

in my passat hanyes it says to leave the wheel on when undoing the hub bolt, is this the correct method? I just noticed my boot is way knackered and the way my street road surface is atm Im sure it'll get worse.

 

Any more tips for this job? or things I should replace at the same time?

 

ta

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, if you chock the wheels you should be able to crack the hub nut free with a breaker bar, I did this job again last Friday and it didn't actually take long at all. Just make sure you have plenty of rags to clean up the CV grease with. I forgot again I needed a ball joint splitter to do the job by removing the track rod end/balljoint from the hub steering arm, so did the job again by removing the bottom suspension strut bolts, no bother as I have a flat garage floor and know the position my camber is set to using a spirit level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this'll be the 1st time Ive done this job. I dont have a ball joint splitter either. I dont think the alignment is good anyway, probably get it done after. theres so much grit it there :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that'll be fine, the inner joints don't get flexed or pelted with road dirt like the outer ones anyway.

I think some of the genuine ones have plastic collars between the bellows presumably to stop rubbing in some way but I can't see that will be an issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...