Help my car hates me again!! problems found!!3/4/06

[Riley 0]

is your fuel pump still buzzing m8?

 

ive lost touch with the valver lumps now but... :oops: do they have an air screw on the throttle body? hasnt upped and left has it? can be prone for it on other v.a.g motors.

 

as for the metering head,yep they are very precise,but if you throw a garage a fiver they should be able to check/adjust the c/o level for you.

 

anywhere between 1%-2% is good.

 

Neil. :)

[Sanj 0]

Theres a coiple of posts doing teh rounds with the same symptoms, is it just teh time of year? Start with the cheapest and work our way up. Do let us know if anyone comes up with a solution.

[reaper1_3 0]

will do!

[reaper1_3 0]

gonna check the injectors as well as they are still the original ones and the cars done 110K....

[reaper1_3 0]

Well had a bit of a look this weekend could an injector no3 be causing all these problems? it was very difficult to remove when i changed my manifold...

 

also is there an easy way to remove and check it without having to remove the manifold again! whet is the correct way of removing them??

 

cheers

[bcstudent 0]

The injectors simply pull out; they're only secured by a single O-ring each. There's no need to remove the manifold to get to them.

 

bcstudent its weird I was reading your thread last week regarding a similar experience that you were having. Did you ever get the problem sorted? Was it anything to do with the throttle sensor etc. It just feels that it might be cos reaper1_3 is having similar probs after he changed his manifold. I put my suspicians down to the exhaust blowing from near the manifold/CAT end.

 

I should probably update that thread as it seems we may have found the problem with my friend's 2.0 16v, although I'm not 100% convinced yet. In the end I invested in an OTC fuel pressure test kit from the US and found the reason the car was running very lean. After a bit of a fuel pressure adjustment it is apparently running much better although I haven't driven it myself for a while.

[reaper1_3 0]

bcstudent none of mine simply pull out!! all of them are well stuck in is there anything i could lube them with?

 

The o ring seems to slide down the injector body and then get wedged on the silver end????

 

Grrrrr here we go again my car hates me!!! :bad-words:

[bcstudent 0]

bcstudent none of mine simply pull out!! all of them are well stuck in is there anything i could lube them with?

 

The o ring seems to slide down the injector body and then get wedged on the silver end????

Well they should do! You could try spraying some WD40 at the base of the injector and try to work it down to the O-ring I guess. I can't say I've ever encountered the same problem.

[reaper1_3 0]

Cheers will give it a try!

[reaper1_3 0]

would a set of kr injectors fit and work on my 9a engine?

[bcstudent 0]

I think they're the same part number but you may want to check that.

 

* EDIT *

 

Nope, they have different part numbers.

 

KR: 026 133 551 (GSF part no. 18753 - £27.50 + VAT each)

9A: 035 133 551 F (GSF part no. 18756 - £29.50 + VAT each)

 

When I changed my injectors earlier this year the ones I got from GSF looked different to the ones that came out. The car runs a hell of a lot better on the new ones though!

[reaper1_3 0]

cheers again might give em a try anyway as they are alot cheaper than the new ones and they are fully working!!!

Cant make things worse!!!LOL

[bcstudent 0]

If you do change your injectors don't be surprised if it takes a few goes to get the car running. Expect it to start and die a few times before the fuel pressure can overcome the sticky injector seats. I'll admit to being a bit worried when I changed mine!

[Sanj 0]

Just a quick update, was driving the car this weekend and the problem has seemed to have sorted itself out! However I now have another problem where the car cuts out when I've been driving it for a while, and then go to start it again. However this gos if I give a good rev. Just wondering if this has anything to do with the teh earlier problem and if its related.

[reaper1_3 0]

That would be anyones guess!!

At the present there must be something in the air !LOL

I would suggest it probably is......

[aide 0]

reaper1_3 given you got running problems this might not help, but the injectors pull out a lot easier when the engine (manifold) is warm as it eases the fat rubber o' rings a bit!

 

in relation to your running problem, i didnt bother adjusting the O2 on my old 16v when I swapped manifolds. considering the problem starts after 2-3 mins suggest the problem's with a malsignal being sent to the metering flap causing either leaning/ richening as the engine warms up. i don't know the 2l16v engine as well as the 1.8 but you could have shorted a sender when cleaning the bay up, i'd get the garage to test the lambda, cold start and thermotime senders - if you know which these are then try running the car with them disconnected and see if the problem starts after 2-3 mins.

 

there is a way to adust the co2 heath robinson style, but you need the car idling when fully warm to do it!

[reaper1_3 0]

aide thanks for that.... where abouts are the cold start and the thermotime senders will have a look at em as the car will not make it to a garage and it may be an obvious problem??

[aide 0]

you will have taken the cold start valve off/on when you swapped the manifolds over, it's the cylindrical thing on the end of the equalizing tube on the lower manifolld section with a fuel line running into it and usually a 'blue' connector. the thermotime has a big hexagonal brass coupling and usually a brown connector, this is located on the right hand side of the block above the clutch.

 

basically the thermotime allows the cold start valve to slug the vehicle with extra fuel via the cold start valve for a 12 seconds if the engine temp is below 35degs, if you've flooded either connector with water then the cold start injector could be pumping fuel for longer and unnecessarily - hence lambda tries to comensate and you have poor running.

 

another big possibility, make sure you reconnected the auxillary air valve and overrun cut off valves and servo pipes back together properly - these are the two valves near the air box, one is to the back of the airbox and is a grey 50mm diameter plastic thing with a biggish pipes coming out of it from air box to valve to plastic elbow for throttle body, the other is fixed to the left above the air box and from memory has a vacuum pipe and connector. it's possible when lifting the throttle body out the way these got disconnected. again as the engine warms these valves begin to function

[reaper1_3 0]

aide thanks a bunch mate well looks like ive loads to go at there!!!

i must admit i think i re- connected everything but you never know!

 

once again thanks...

[reaper1_3 0]

Hi all wheres the best place to get a set of ht leads from as my local places dont stock em?

Unipart can order them in but they are £77!

GSF do em part no:92631C IGNITION LEAD SET-BQ CO 16V 4/89 > £ 56.00

What is BQ as they do a set for £28!

eurocar parts do em for £27!

 

which are the best and why so much variation in price?

[veedub 0]

I had most of the above problems with my valver, turned out to be a REALLY tiny split in the vacume pipe which connects to the ISV. Check it closley!!

[reaper1_3 0]

Well had my head under the bonnet again today .... everything seems tobe connected etc... the same thing happened again after a couple of mins it starts missing and eventually dies....

 

i did hear a sucking noise though whilst it was dying could this be anything??

[reaper1_3 0]

An update it is apparently a fueling problem as i had a mobile mechanic out to it today... The guy was acomplete ar##e and couldnt fix it or even say what part was wrong but he did squirt some fuel or what ever into the system direct and the revs etc picked up everytime.... he suggested to take it to my local vw specialist.... great idea i told him except he is half an hour away and the car runs for less than two minutes.....! GRRRRRRRRR what an idiot.

But spoke to local vw guy and because i get my rado serviced there he has agreed to pickk the car up on a low loader next week and sort for me!!!

Result will be mega bucks but never mind!!!

[bcstudent 0]

If you've got a fuel problem with a 2.0 16v you're pretty screwed without the right tools, i.e. a fuel pressure test kit and an exhaust gas analyser.

 

Keep us informed chap. I'll be interested to know what's causing the problem.

[reaper1_3 0]

will do